Best way to launch a 1LE

[aggieguy13]

From a stop. What's the fastest way? Amateur driver here. 2k rev? 3k? Tc on/off?


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[RazorLED]

Have you tried launch control??

[HOJO]

Originally Posted by RazorLED

Have you tried launch control??

A lot of seasoned guys on the forum say that launch control is a little to harsh, at 4000+ rpm and dumping the clutch they are seeing a number of blown axles. To much shock to the rear. They are recommending 2500 to 3000 and slipping the clutch slightly, you will need to play around with it.

[jvoisel]

Around 3k slipping the clutch works best for me.

Trail and error, takes a lot of practice.

[shibbs]

I've got the same 285s on the rear of my SS.

I do about 3k and slip it. I've never side-stepped the clutch. That shouldn't even be running through your head.

[aggieguy13]

What you mean by slip? I usually just drop it


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[shibbs]

Basically just bring your foot up briskly, but not as fast as you can. You want to put some "feel" in the pedal as you bring it up, so you don't release too quickly that your engine will bog down, or too slowly that you'll just melt your clutch.

[Kibullseye03]

I turn traction control off. Stabilitrak is pretty consistent but I usually leave it all off. When mine was stock I was launching at 25k-27k I put the drag radials on and went to 33k-35k with 17lbs of air. Smooth release of the clutch. I dumped my clutch once and blew my cv axle to hell and the end of the track.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by aggieguy13

What you mean by slip? I usually just drop it


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Sorry if this is too basic or too long, but to understand slipping vs dropping it is best to understand how the clutch works....There are 3 main components in a clutch and they are controlled by your foot, pressure, and a lever that is attached to the pressure plate.

Pressure plate = keeps pressure on and sandwiches the friction disc against the flywheel with extremely strong springs (aka fingers)
Friction disc= Friction Material between the Pressure plate and Flywheel
Flywheel = bolted to the crankshaft, 1/1 relationship with the engine/crank speed

When depressed the clutch pedal pushes fluid against a slave cylinder that is attached to the throwout bearing. The throw out bearing is attached to the "fingers"/springs on the pressure plate.

Slip means you are using/ controlling the clutch by keeping you foot on the clutch pedal longer when you let the clutch out. You are literally letting the clutch disc slip against the flywheel. By doing this you allow the drive line to "catchup" with the engine speed as it "slips" on the flywheel. When you drop the clutch you going from 0-2500, 3500.... RPM instantly.

Picture a merry go round on a playground that is spinning at a high rate of speed. If you reach out, grab it and stop it that is the same as dropping a clutch. It will jar your body and may even hurt.
If you are wearing a glove and you put your hand on the rail and allow it to "still" slip some as you slow it down you will feel the heat build as it comes to a stop ....(I hope that makes sense )

Disadvantage to slipping a clutch, you create more heat and the friction material wears. Worse case clutch needs to be replaced.

Disadvantage to dropping the clutch: you shock the driveline and most of the time the tires break loose and spin. Worst case is if the tires hook and don't spin you may find the next weakest link on the car...maybe an axle or the ring and pinion.

I personally slip and feather the clutch when I drag race as I have only had street cars and bikes and nothing drag race dedicated. (Fastest car ran 11.3) ALL nannies are off. I rev the motor to about 3000 on the 1LE and as I start to let the clutch out I increase the throttle (gas goes down/clutch comes up). If I feel the tires spinning too much I "pedal" the car or lift off the gas slightly and then hit is again (sometimes a couple times in first ....basically acting as my own traction control.

The BEST thing to possibly do is get as much seat time as possible at a drag strip and use the 60ft time as your indicator as to what works for you and what doesn't.

Here is my first and only time out about 3 weeks after I got the 1LE:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300728

-Matt

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

Sorry if this is too basic or too long, but to understand slipping vs dropping it is best to understand how the clutch works....There are 3 main components in a clutch and they are controlled by your foot, pressure, and a lever that is attached to the pressure plate.

Pressure plate = keeps pressure on and sandwiches the friction disc against the flywheel with extremely strong springs (aka fingers)
Friction disc= Friction Material between the Pressure plate and Flywheel
Flywheel = bolted to the crankshaft, 1/1 relationship with the engine/crank speed

When depressed the clutch pedal pushes fluid against a slave cylinder that is attached to the throwout bearing. The throw out bearing is attached to the "fingers"/springs on the pressure plate.

Slip means you are using/ controlling the clutch by keeping you foot on the clutch pedal longer when you let the clutch out. You are literally letting the clutch disc slip against the flywheel. By doing this you allow the drive line to "catchup" with the engine speed as it "slips" on the flywheel. When you drop the clutch you going from 0-2500, 3500.... RPM instantly.

Picture a merry go round on a playground that is spinning at a high rate of speed. If you reach out, grab it and stop it that is the same as dropping a clutch. It will jar your body and may even hurt.
If you are wearing a glove and you put your hand on the rail and allow it to "still" slip some as you slow it down you will feel the heat build as it comes to a stop ....(I hope that makes sense )

Disadvantage to slipping a clutch, you create more heat and the friction material wears. Worse case clutch needs to be replaced.

Disadvantage to dropping the clutch: you shock the driveline and most of the time the tires break loose and spin. Worst case is if the tires hook and don't spin you may find the next weakest link on the car...maybe an axle or the ring and pinion.

I personally slip and feather the clutch when I drag race as I have only had street cars and bikes and nothing drag race dedicated. (Fastest car ran 11.3) ALL nannies are off. I rev the motor to about 3000 on the 1LE and as I start to let the clutch out I increase the throttle (gas goes down/clutch comes up). If I feel the tires spinning too much I "pedal" the car or lift off the gas slightly and then hit is again (sometimes a couple times in first ....basically acting as my own traction control.

The BEST thing to possibly do is get as much seat time as possible at a drag strip and use the 60ft time as your indicator as to what works for you and what doesn't.

Here is my first and only time out about 3 weeks after I got the 1LE:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300728

-Matt

After reading your piece, I went back to the linked old drag race thread. I chuckled at he open request for a CAI. I am curious, did you have any takers? I am betting not because I really doubt it would make any difference. I am just curious.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by gajagfan

After reading your piece, I went back to the linked old drag race thread. I chuckled at he open request for a CAI. I am curious, did you have any takers? I am betting not because I really doubt it would make any difference. I am just curious.

No takers, Too many Camaros out there as test beds.

I did run a SLP Blackwing (drop in with the elbow) last fall for a bit but never made it to the drag strip again. I just swapped it for a Roto-Fab that I may be installing later today. I will run that at the track with no other mods and see what happens.......But the motor is also broken in so I would assume it will be quicker either way.

For fun I have the 275/40/20 PZero from an SS on wheels...I am going to back to back those with the Supercars to see if there is a difference.

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

No takers, Too many Camaros out there as test beds.

I did run a SLP Blackwing (drop in with the elbow) last fall for a bit but never made it to the drag strip again. I just swapped it for a Roto-Fab that I may be installing later today. I will run that at the track with no other mods and see what happens.......But the motor is also broken in so I would assume it will be quicker either way.

For fun I have the 275/40/20 PZero from an SS on wheels...I am going to back to back those with the Supercars to see if there is a difference.

The tire test will be interesting, but I would really love to see back to back on the Roto-Fab. We did a fair amount of dyno testing as be pushed into the aftermarket air cleaner market back in the early 2000's. To me it is the greatest smoke and mirror marketing campaign in the world. Again, kind of a pet curiosity for me.

[raw_shark]

Originally Posted by HOJO

A lot of seasoned guys on the forum say that launch control is a little to harsh, at 4000+ rpm and dumping the clutch they are seeing a number of blown axles. To much shock to the rear. They are recommending 2500 to 3000 and slipping the clutch slightly, you will need to play around with it.

Ahem. A "friend of mine" can confirm this. Don't use launch control.

[Novie LE]

All this advise is useless IMO. Use common sense and do what you do from a stop light except instead of idle try 2000k rpm and go from there. If you bog, rev higher or release the clutch slower. If you spin, rev lower or release the clutch slower.

Same principle for drag radials, just rev higher. With slicks just dump and pray the tire absorbs enough shock so you don't break something.