Camber/Caster plates!!!

[BLTZKRG]

Be nice if they were provisioned to be upgradeable to go from stock style setup to coilover setup.
Im also wondering at what point is a front bumpsteer kit necessary? Would these be made to accomodate that factor?

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by tw78911sc

Bless you, put me on a early list tw78911sc@yahoo.com

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Hell yeah! I'm in for stock strut style.

Originally Posted by bannonm

Interested in a set to fit Pfadt's feather light coil overs. Subscribed.

Originally Posted by Zombie killer

Pick me pick me !!! Lol. Can't wait to see how they work on stock struts too. Looks promising tho. Put me on the list too.

Originally Posted by danvillekidd

Are these going to work with the magride for ZL1s as well? Would be interested if they do.

Originally Posted by BLTZKRG

Interested for stock setup provided they clear the 1LE strut brace

Will put you all on the notify list. Thanks!

Originally Posted by X25

What is the pricing going to be?

Originally Posted by AG1LE

Looks great - any idea how much you might ask for them?

Sorry guys, I am still working on price.

Originally Posted by olblue75

What color will they be??? An will be watching this also!!!

I am considering black/clear anodizing combo, but open to suggestions.

Originally Posted by BLTZKRG

Be nice if they were provisioned to be upgradeable to go from stock style setup to coilover setup.
Im also wondering at what point is a front bumpsteer kit necessary? Would these be made to accomodate that factor?

The only difference between the OEM style and the 2.5" spring style is the spring perch. changing from one to the other would definitely be doable should you change out your struts.

are you having issues with bump steer? unless you are really low or have heavily modified the suspension, i don't think a bump steer kit would be necessary.

[CHMSC]

Curious as to why you went with a kit you have to drill into the shock towers? I was all over this until I read that.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by CHMSC

Curious as to why you went with a kit you have to drill into the shock towers? I was all over this until I read that.

Hey CHMSC,

That is a great question. Hopefully this will shed some light. I designed them with drilled holes for a few reasons.

- Consistency. Without drilling holes, the top plate can shift around whenever you are adjusting. By bolting the plates through the shock tower, the plates will always be in the same exact position making it much easier to be accurate when making adjustments.

- When we are finished with these, they will have laser etched ticks spaced 1mm apart for measuring strut displacement and camber/castor adjustments, which will also make it simple for the user to make precise adjustments. the same etchings on a drill-less design would be, for the most part, useless.

hope that helps.

[X25]

Thanks for the explanation! Camber plates are known to cause increased NVH; is there anything you did to overcome this issue?

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by X25

Thanks for the explanation! Camber plates are known to cause increased NVH; is there anything you did to overcome this issue?

Any increase in NVH should be minimal... We will consider this while testing, but at the end of the day, you are going from rubber mount to solid. If you will be using a OEM spring camber/caster plate, you will re-use your spring isolator (#7 in PDF below), which should help.

Which reminds me, any aftermarket coil overs that re-use the factory upper spring perch should work with the OEM style plates as well.

Camaro Strut Assy.pdf

[CHMSC]

Originally Posted by Justin Moreno

Hey CHMSC,

That is a great question. Hopefully this will shed some light. I designed them with drilled holes for a few reasons.

- Consistency. Without drilling holes, the top plate can shift around whenever you are adjusting. By bolting the plates through the shock tower, the plates will always be in the same exact position making it much easier to be accurate when making adjustments.

- When we are finished with these, they will have laser etched ticks spaced 1mm apart for measuring strut displacement and camber/castor adjustments, which will also make it simple for the user to make precise adjustments. the same etchings on a drill-less design would be, for the most part, useless.

hope that helps.

I appreciate the explanation. While I understand it, I am wondering if you will change or make another design not having to drill into the shock tower. Reason being most people are not going to want to drill into their shock towers due to resale value or if they break and we need a new one but you are no longer open. I am hesitant due to several companies going under. Then having to get another brand that may require more holes drilled into the tower, after a while it won't look good and will need to be redone.

[Synner]

There is nothing to break on these. Its a piece of metal bolted to another.

The bearings are a sourced part and nothing is custom about them. The ones on pedders can be looked up and bought anywhere online. That is the only "serviceable" part on any of these setups.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Justin Moreno

Any increase in NVH should be minimal... We will consider this while testing, but at the end of the day, you are going from rubber mount to solid. If you will be using a OEM spring camber/caster plate, you will re-use your spring isolator (#7 in PDF below), which should help.

Which reminds me, any aftermarket coil overs that re-use the factory upper spring perch should work with the OEM style plates as well.

Attachment 650590

I am yet to install it, but my BC Racing ER coilovers did not come with any top mount at all (and the instructions use the OEM top mounts), so I presume I'd use the OEM style plates.

I'm still a bit wary on drilling holes to be honest, but we'll see; if I can't get enough camber once I install the coilovers, I'll need to get a set!

[toehead93]

Interested, looks like a nice piece!

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by Synner

There is nothing to break on these. Its a piece of metal bolted to another.

The bearings are a sourced part and nothing is custom about them. The ones on pedders can be looked up and bought anywhere online. That is the only "serviceable" part on any of these setups.

CHMSC's point is still valid. I had a case where I broke the strut shaft on my Pfadt's and part of the camber plate fell off on the track never to be found. Even though Pfadt was still in business, they weren't making the plates and I couldn't get just the piece I lost. I would be pissed right now if Pfadt's setup needed holes and now I can't replace them.

I'm not ruling Justin's plates out, just a concern of mine because of past experiences.

[White_SS/RS]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe there's anything else out there to increase camber over -2* on a stock strut. The way I see it is if your serious about running lots of camber then the accuracy in your alignment matters and drilling the holes shouldn't be a problem.

[X25]

Do these cars achieve more camber with coilovers (with no camber plates)?

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

Do these cars achieve more camber with coilovers (with no camber plates)?

Not sure, I wouldn't think so, being it's mounted in the same location.