07-29-2014, 12:47 PM | #1 |
Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: anyplace, USA
Posts: 1,177
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Upgrade just the speakers (base system)
Let me first say, the stock stereo is okay. Have had better/worse.
My primary complaint: The tweeters are a little harsh, but I also don't know if it isn't just the signal sent by the head unit (tried EQ'ing it away, and it sounds like a spike/coloration around 10khz so it's unavoidable at louder volumes unless I strip all the treble). Assuming it's not the signal coming out of the head unit, what are my easier upgrade options? Just get new front components and 6.5" rears? Skip the rears and just get components? Hypothetically, if I went to a custom car stereo shop and gutted everything, got a new head, sub, amps, speakers, etc -- what functionality do I lose with th new head unit that the current one provides? [most of my climate controls, for example, show on the display on the stereo] Just looking to bounce around ideas. I plan on having this car for a while and upgrading the stereo is one thing I'm not shy about since I'm a musician and enjoy my tunes. |
07-29-2014, 02:09 PM | #2 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
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You can keep the stock HU if you install something like this:
http://www.pacificstereo.com/audiocontrol-lc7i.html It may help with the stock speakers too. Just my $0.02
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07-30-2014, 06:39 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stony Brook, New York
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You're looking at voiding a warranty and possibly losing climate control. Your best bet would be to have the dealer upgrade your sound system to the BA one. I honestly just tapped into the rear deck speakers and tossed a set of 10" subwoofers in my trunk and the sound sounds so much better.
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07-30-2014, 09:22 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 2013 SW 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: May 2010
Location: FAR NW Austin, TX
Posts: 261
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Quote:
You'll definitely want to either get a line out converter & amp combo that does signal summing so you have a flat/unequalized signal to work with or go the full head unit (and speaker) replacement route. Scosche (http://www.scosche.com/2010-up-chevr...stallation-kit) and Metra (http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-3010S-LC++++) make kits that retain the AC functionality, etc... I'm pretty sure if you buy the replacement head unit from Crutchfield they'll give you 1/2 off of either of these kits. Good luck w/the search/project! |
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07-30-2014, 11:48 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Quote:
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07-30-2014, 12:48 PM | #6 | |
2010 2SS/RS M6
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Location: Auckland, NZ
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Quote:
You will definitely need one if you go with aftermarket speakers.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
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07-30-2014, 01:14 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: May 2010
Location: FAR NW Austin, TX
Posts: 261
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For the record, it was not my intent to say the LC7i wouldn't help. If it sums the signals and provides a flat(er) curve to deal with you should be good to go.
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07-30-2014, 01:48 PM | #8 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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No worries, just confused.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
07-30-2014, 01:53 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: May 2010
Location: FAR NW Austin, TX
Posts: 261
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07-30-2014, 02:47 PM | #10 | |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
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Quote:
I believe that the cheapest option would be something like a JL Audio Cleansweep. Then you have the Alpine IMPRINT system, the JBL MS8, Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3, and the list goes on. If you have the Boston system, the EQ in the stock head unit should be flat, in which case the best start would be replacing the factory amplifier. That make sense?
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07-30-2014, 02:58 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: anyplace, USA
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Quote:
Thanks all for the replies. I'm going to look into some of the options mentioned and see what fits the budget, etc. |
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08-01-2014, 09:22 AM | #12 |
Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: anyplace, USA
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So after thinking about it, checking out the pricing for a full upgrade, this appears to be the most cost effective option. Getting the BA system from the dealer would be second best (would likely be sufficient for me).
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08-03-2014, 12:00 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Don't get the ba system. It won't work. The wiring and everything is completely different so when it would all be said and done, it'd be the most expensive option
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08-04-2014, 09:25 AM | #14 |
Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: anyplace, USA
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Any suggestions/caution regarding sub box designs? I use my trunk so taking up the least amount of space as possible is best. Might go to a local audio shop to see what they offer. They may have even done a Camaro recently (it's a popular car around here).
I see the ******** is popular and it looks like a good design (how does it stay in place?): http://********.com/product_info.php...&products_id=7 Is there anywhere in the back of the car (maybe under the rear seats) a sub could fit? I don't even care if it's just an 8", just looking for more low end. Don't need to rattle windows. Last edited by stoopid; 08-04-2014 at 10:07 AM. |
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