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Old 03-24-2010, 10:10 PM   #1
TRSS2
 
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Switchplate+lots of AAC lights assistance...

So this is what I would like to do.
1. Have this, a switch plate that sits in your cupholder that you can customize with what type of buttons(I/O,3-way,momentary, etc...), custom lettering and what not. I would have 3 or 4 buttons (4th probably being a spare)
2. I would like to have the 1st switch to be able to have the headlights (AAC RED&WHITE Halos along with RED&WHITE fog light halos wired together for simultaneous on/off/red/white) work OEM (meaning White, and turn on automatically), then turn red by flipping switch #1, the standard interface for turning your lights on and off in the Camaro will still be available so no need to make it a 3 way switch.
So my question there is, do I just cut a power line and connect a wire to run to the switch to be able to complete the circuit when flipped? If so where do I cut or tap onto the headlight line @? In hopes to not breach the firewall(meaning not to make a new hole, trying to avoid all possible drilling and cutting into my Camaro, dont feel like desecrating it) and use the wire harness under the driver side.
3.The second switch would be for my AAC footwell ccfl lighting,wheel well lights (one AAC led pod and one foot of AAC SMD waterproof led lighting per footwell) and LTLAudio door neons/projectors. I would like OEM capability (meaning anytime the dome light would come on the wheel well lights, footwell lights, and door neons/projectors would come on) and a always on capability by flipping the switch for shows and such...
4. I would then like on a third switch the AAC Nite Rider scanner to be able to be OEM (tapped into the security light), an always on connection, and an always off position (so a 3 way switch, im assuming)

So, in preparation for this I would like to know what wires to tap onto, what wires to cut, and where they are located(wires needed-headlights and security light, I already found the dome light wire via this thread)

I plan on running color coded wires from the 3 individual power sources to the switch panel, I just dont know how exactly to go about it(to tap? To cut? I dunno..). Any offerings of knowledge, expertise, and genuine know how would be fantastic!
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2010 2LT/RS Black(exterior) on Black(Interior Leather) on Black(Flat Black Powdercoated Rims)
AAC interior red dome lights, footwell lights, SMD wheel well lights, led pods, afterburners(SMD), RED/WHITE halo headlights and fog lights, Nite Rider scanner times 2, illuminated bowtie, T-REX black phantom billet grill upper and lower, had vinyl blackouts-they turned out to be illegal . Soon to have LTLAudio door projectors.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:25 PM   #2
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I just found this a foglight plug-n-play harness and that would make things one step easier maybe... not entirely sure. It would turn on the DRL auto with the headlights, or manual settings.
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2010 2LT/RS Black(exterior) on Black(Interior Leather) on Black(Flat Black Powdercoated Rims)
AAC interior red dome lights, footwell lights, SMD wheel well lights, led pods, afterburners(SMD), RED/WHITE halo headlights and fog lights, Nite Rider scanner times 2, illuminated bowtie, T-REX black phantom billet grill upper and lower, had vinyl blackouts-they turned out to be illegal . Soon to have LTLAudio door projectors.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:33 PM   #3
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you might be on to something here
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:43 PM   #4
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I agree, I just need a bit of light shed on how to get where I want to go... I am eager with anticipation!
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2010 2LT/RS Black(exterior) on Black(Interior Leather) on Black(Flat Black Powdercoated Rims)
AAC interior red dome lights, footwell lights, SMD wheel well lights, led pods, afterburners(SMD), RED/WHITE halo headlights and fog lights, Nite Rider scanner times 2, illuminated bowtie, T-REX black phantom billet grill upper and lower, had vinyl blackouts-they turned out to be illegal . Soon to have LTLAudio door projectors.
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:15 AM   #5
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Why use the cup holders if you dont have to? This is what I have done in front of the cup holders. Sorry about picture quality.
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Old 03-25-2010, 03:56 PM   #6
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What do those turn on and off?

????


Quote:
Originally Posted by J Lambert View Post
Why use the cup holders if you dont have to? This is what I have done in front of the cup holders. Sorry about picture quality.
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Old 03-25-2010, 03:57 PM   #7
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that is cool
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Lambert View Post
Why use the cup holders if you dont have to? This is what I have done in front of the cup holders. Sorry about picture quality.
I dont ever use the rear cup holder an would rather utilize that route than drilling holes in the bezel, I am trying to avoid any easily visible drilling of holes or cutting. I know the bezel is probably rather cheap to replace if I wanted to go back to oem, but to each their own I guess. So any help with how I should power/wire the setup I explained would be fantastic, I cant read exactly what your toggle switches say, what functions do they perform? A bit of an explanation of how you wired yours might help guide me in the right direction. Thanks for your input.
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2010 2LT/RS Black(exterior) on Black(Interior Leather) on Black(Flat Black Powdercoated Rims)
AAC interior red dome lights, footwell lights, SMD wheel well lights, led pods, afterburners(SMD), RED/WHITE halo headlights and fog lights, Nite Rider scanner times 2, illuminated bowtie, T-REX black phantom billet grill upper and lower, had vinyl blackouts-they turned out to be illegal . Soon to have LTLAudio door projectors.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:29 PM   #9
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The four switches are just two position switches. On and off. I chose a four color led so I could have them red when in off position and indigo in the on position. (to match the dash lights) The fist switch is to turn the Nitrous on and off. The second is to open and close the nitrous bottle. The third is to turn on and off the fog lamps. And the forth is to turn the halos on and off.

This is a very simple set up. I'm sure you can do what you want to do with yours rather easy.

Justin has been great to deal with. Get in touch with him at AAC. He has plenty product knowledge.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:40 PM   #10
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very cool!
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Lambert View Post
The four switches are just two position switches. On and off. I chose a four color led so I could have them red when in off position and indigo in the on position. (to match the dash lights) The fist switch is to turn the Nitrous on and off. The second is to open and close the nitrous bottle. The third is to turn on and off the fog lamps. And the forth is to turn the halos on and off.

This is a very simple set up. I'm sure you can do what you want to do with yours rather easy.

Justin has been great to deal with. Get in touch with him at AAC. He has plenty product knowledge.
so you probably also have the switches on the dash to; Release the Oil Slick, fire machine guns front & back, and shields up mode. That is a nice, clean look. good job on placement.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrpiii View Post
so you probably also have the switches on the dash to; Release the Oil Slick, fire machine guns front & back, and shields up mode. That is a nice, clean look. good job on placement.
LMFAO!!! No but I wish.

You remember when you were a kid fixing up your car and you could only buy what you could afford to buy. Now that your grown up but still a kid inside the toys become never ending. I often wonder will I ever stop. Life was so simple then. LOL

Thanks for the compliments!
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:33 AM   #13
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J lambert, I like the looks of that also.
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:31 PM   #14
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update, I will not be using the cup holder switch plate, I will be using a project box that will fit snugly in the console, so the buttons will be hidden, and I will still have enough room for my zune and phone charger to plug in. The box will contain the two relays in which I will need to do what it is I need to perform, 1 for the halos, (which I have gotten figured out on how to wire and such, thanks to klove and kissmyss, thank you for your time and efforts). I have run all wires for my wheel well lights today, and if anyone is curious I have a link of the thread I posted for running wire from outside the cab into the cab without drilling into the firewall. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73579
I also ran the lengths of wire needed for attaching to the dome light wire under the driver side, as well as the length of wire for the security light (in hopes that it will be close to the same place as the dome light tap). I also ran the wires needed for running the dual color halos off of one switch, I just need to get the halos physically installed first, but the wiring is secured and ends are terminated so nothing can short out. I just need to get all the wires into the bottom of the console, cut holes in the project box for the buttons, and wire it all up... which is where I may have some more questions, running wire is rather easy, logistics of how the wiring should be done... a bit more difficult.
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2010 2LT/RS Black(exterior) on Black(Interior Leather) on Black(Flat Black Powdercoated Rims)
AAC interior red dome lights, footwell lights, SMD wheel well lights, led pods, afterburners(SMD), RED/WHITE halo headlights and fog lights, Nite Rider scanner times 2, illuminated bowtie, T-REX black phantom billet grill upper and lower, had vinyl blackouts-they turned out to be illegal . Soon to have LTLAudio door projectors.

Last edited by TRSS2; 03-27-2010 at 10:34 PM. Reason: improper grammar and rather ostentatious failure to notice a few minor inadequicies
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