In car wiring - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Moriartii · 08-13-2010, 11:09 AM

I have a question that I dont think I have seen addressed.

In the interest of replacing the stock BA amp, my thought is to do so with either connectors (******** if he makes them) or splicing. Basically I use the OEM wiring already in place in the car. With an upgraded amp would this wiring (referring to gauge) be good enough?

Cheers
K

SS Drifter · 08-13-2010, 04:23 PM

This certainly would be easier but, I also don't know if the gauge is adequate. The factory speaker wires look small. I think the audio pros out there will want to know what amp and speakers you intend to run.

Along the same lines the part numbers for the speaker connectors would come in handy. If anyone has them please post.

Moriartii · 08-18-2010, 12:52 PM

Bump for more input please

2010SLVRBULIT · 08-18-2010, 12:56 PM

if you upgrade to a more powerful amp, you're going to have to change your power/ground wires accordingly. Not sure what the BA amp has for power gauge wire, as I currently have the stock system.

Topdown · 08-18-2010, 12:59 PM

Not a good idea...

The BA amp in the car is going to have a considerably lower draw than an aftermarket amp and wire fires are bad news.

of course it will partially depend on what amp you want to run, but in every instance I can think of, using the OEM wiring harness to power an aftermarket amplifier is a bad idea. its just not a high enough quality or large enough gauge to carry the power your going to need/want without causing problems, like fires or power-starving your amp and sending a clip signal to your speakers and burning out voice coils.

Moriartii · 08-18-2010, 01:17 PM

I assumed this would be the case but wanted to ask. I has planned on running separate power/ground for my new amp. Now I do believe I could use the existing Oem wires for the low level inputs?

Cheers
K

Steve@Subthump · 08-18-2010, 01:32 PM

We've already axed the idea of using the provided power and ground. I think he's referring to the speaker wire that's already ran throughout the car. It will be much easier to use this wire than to try to run all new. Especially given the complexities of routing wire through the molex plugs in the door jambs and then trying to reconnect them to the speakers. Keep in mind, for our case, we are not talking about the high end guys spending 15k on custom steroes to win competitions. We are interested in the average guy who wants to quickly and easily replace the bostom amp and wants to do this himself and not necessarily replace the factory speakers. The real question is, how much wattage can the factory wiring handle. Because if you consider that the rear factory 6x9s are rated at 50w@2ohm, and on top of that figure some percentage of safety allowance that GM has built into the wiring, I think we could put some sort of figure on it.

SS Drifter · 08-21-2010, 11:41 AM

I've been digging on this topic too. Pulling wires into the doors looks like a pain.

Here's an interesting link http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Wiring/ scroll down to botton half of the page. The author claims a only a .1 db difference between 18 and 12 gauge wire. Depending on your new speakers and amp this would probably work. Like Steve said, the OEM speakers are 2 ohm. If your aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm the load on the OEM wiring will be less.

I'm driving four Hertz HSK165's with an Audison SRx5 which is a 53Wx4ch + 175Wx1ch. The sub is a JL Audio 8W3v3 and all speakers are 4 ohm. If the BA system runs an estimated 50 to 60W per channel at 2 ohms the wire size will not be an issue.

One goal of my system design is no cutting or splicing of the factory wiring. I'm looking for a source for the X2 amp connectors to build a break out. Also need to find adapters for the speaker side of the wiring.

Veritasz · 08-21-2010, 03:13 PM

I really wouldn't worry about the speaker wires. I can't see this being a real problem in a general non competition system. You will have to have a bigger/better set of power and ground wires to a new amp. Gauge will depend on the class of the amp and power rateing. I just can't see GM putting a gauge of wire adequate enough to support a after factory amp..Hope this helps...

08-13-2010, 11:09 AM	#1
Moriartii Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,269	In car wiring I have a question that I dont think I have seen addressed. In the interest of replacing the stock BA amp, my thought is to do so with either connectors (******** if he makes them) or splicing. Basically I use the OEM wiring already in place in the car. With an upgraded amp would this wiring (referring to gauge) be good enough? Cheers K

08-13-2010, 04:23 PM	#2
SS Drifter Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: California Posts: 588	This certainly would be easier but, I also don't know if the gauge is adequate. The factory speaker wires look small. I think the audio pros out there will want to know what amp and speakers you intend to run. Along the same lines the part numbers for the speaker connectors would come in handy. If anyone has them please post. Last edited by SS Drifter; 08-13-2010 at 05:07 PM.

08-18-2010, 12:59 PM	#5
Topdown The wait is over! Drives: 2010 Camaro, IOM, L99, Auto Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Washington Posts: 1,081	Not a good idea... The BA amp in the car is going to have a considerably lower draw than an aftermarket amp and wire fires are bad news. of course it will partially depend on what amp you want to run, but in every instance I can think of, using the OEM wiring harness to power an aftermarket amplifier is a bad idea. its just not a high enough quality or large enough gauge to carry the power your going to need/want without causing problems, like fires or power-starving your amp and sending a clip signal to your speakers and burning out voice coils. __________________ Ordered - 4/17/2010 Delivered - 5/29/2010 AlphaDamp CLD Mat - Get more Sound Deadening with less Sound Deadener

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08-18-2010, 12:52 PM	#3
Moriartii Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,269	Bump for more input please

08-18-2010, 12:56 PM	#4
2010SLVRBULIT Drives: G5(LLT) & C6(LS3) Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: MARS Posts: 7,525 View My Garage	if you upgrade to a more powerful amp, you're going to have to change your power/ground wires accordingly. Not sure what the BA amp has for power gauge wire, as I currently have the stock system.

08-18-2010, 01:17 PM	#6
Moriartii Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,269	I assumed this would be the case but wanted to ask. I has planned on running separate power/ground for my new amp. Now I do believe I could use the existing Oem wires for the low level inputs? Cheers K

08-18-2010, 01:32 PM	#7
Steve@Subthump Account Suspended Drives: 2011 2SS IOM Vert Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,096	We've already axed the idea of using the provided power and ground. I think he's referring to the speaker wire that's already ran throughout the car. It will be much easier to use this wire than to try to run all new. Especially given the complexities of routing wire through the molex plugs in the door jambs and then trying to reconnect them to the speakers. Keep in mind, for our case, we are not talking about the high end guys spending 15k on custom steroes to win competitions. We are interested in the average guy who wants to quickly and easily replace the bostom amp and wants to do this himself and not necessarily replace the factory speakers. The real question is, how much wattage can the factory wiring handle. Because if you consider that the rear factory 6x9s are rated at 50w@2ohm, and on top of that figure some percentage of safety allowance that GM has built into the wiring, I think we could put some sort of figure on it.

08-21-2010, 11:41 AM	#8
SS Drifter Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: California Posts: 588	I've been digging on this topic too. Pulling wires into the doors looks like a pain. Here's an interesting link http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/FAQ/Wiring/ scroll down to botton half of the page. The author claims a only a .1 db difference between 18 and 12 gauge wire. Depending on your new speakers and amp this would probably work. Like Steve said, the OEM speakers are 2 ohm. If your aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm the load on the OEM wiring will be less. I'm driving four Hertz HSK165's with an Audison SRx5 which is a 53Wx4ch + 175Wx1ch. The sub is a JL Audio 8W3v3 and all speakers are 4 ohm. If the BA system runs an estimated 50 to 60W per channel at 2 ohms the wire size will not be an issue. One goal of my system design is no cutting or splicing of the factory wiring. I'm looking for a source for the X2 amp connectors to build a break out. Also need to find adapters for the speaker side of the wiring.

08-21-2010, 03:13 PM	#9
Veritasz Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 28	I really wouldn't worry about the speaker wires. I can't see this being a real problem in a general non competition system. You will have to have a bigger/better set of power and ground wires to a new amp. Gauge will depend on the class of the amp and power rateing. I just can't see GM putting a gauge of wire adequate enough to support a after factory amp..Hope this helps...