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Old 10-23-2010, 11:25 AM   #1
MyIBMssRS

 
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brake bed in

What bed in procedure did you guys use after installing Hawk pads??
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Old 10-23-2010, 04:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyIBMssRS View Post
What bed in procedure did you guys use after installing Hawk pads??
I read a rotor seasoning and brake pad bed in procedure somewhere on the Baer Brake web site. It mainly is for competitive road race cars but could work for you. I drove gently for a couple weeks before I did half of the procedure for my street driven CTS-V front calipers and rotors. My post below is what I found on Baer Brakes that should help you.
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Old 10-23-2010, 04:49 PM   #3
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Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils and burns from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or “Bedding” takes place, the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor.

Baer Claw® systems feature Baer’s ceramic-based SPORT TOURING “D-compound” brake pads. Although pre-burnished from the factory, SPORT-TOURING, just as with all pad types, benefit from being properly mated to the rotor surface. If both the rotor and pad are new and the rotor surfaces are un-plated, it is most desirable to run the pads through normal commuting type driving for at least 150-200-miles before using them aggressively. If the new rotor surface finish is plated or the rotor is used with a compound other than the SPORT-TOURING ceramic-based pad, increase the commuter type driving with no hard use, to a total of 250-300-miles to accomplish the blending of the pad surface to the rotor surface.

Bedding The Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)

Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.

Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph
to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Additional Notes:

Metallic brake pads – Metallic pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.
Switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (not recommended) – When switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.
Racers - Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.
If any of this is unclear, or you have comments, please call the us at
(602) 233-1411 or contact us online by clicking here.

Here is what I just found from Baer Brakes and hope it is what you are looking for. Good Luck
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyIBMssRS View Post
What bed in procedure did you guys use after installing Hawk pads??
First choice is always to go with the pad manufacturer's recommended procedure. For Hawk, they are on the box. Also, for a video explanation, see:



Chris
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:52 PM   #5
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Thanks guys!
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:53 AM   #6
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Look at these articles

Very thorough w/ good info

http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c...cat/brake-pads
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