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Old 01-12-2011, 02:47 AM   #1
Avalnch

 
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Updated: Sway Bars, Coilovers, Trailing Arm & Toe-Rod Installation Tips

Started the install process last weekend and still have about a 1/2 day to go to finish. The front equipment are in, all the rear pieces are assembled and are ready for install this weekend.

Gotta give a big thumbs-up to my pal Rob for helping me out. He's the true wrench head and I couldn't have done it without his help. This one's for you, buddy.

The goods:
- Pfadt Coilovers
- Pfadt Sport Sway Bars
- Pfadt Adjustable End Links
- Pfadt Fabricated Rear Trailing Arms
- BMR Adjustable Toe-Rod Links

First off, let me say that all the other complete install threads here have been very helpful. However, there were a few things that I couldn't find and never saw posted, so here goes.

Tip #1: Sway Bar-Remove the OE center links!
Use a couple of crescent wrenches to pry off the front OE center links. Having a friend hold down the bar while you twist away will be extremely helpful. Spray a bit of WD40 to help the rubber bushings slip off easier. Once the center links are off, the bar will actually slip out either side of the car. Pic attached (shows the new center link, but you get the idea):
Name:  front center link remove.jpg
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Tip #2: Trailing Arm-Cut out the OE rubber bushing flanges
Use a utility knife to score out the flanges of the rubber OE bushing. Follow the circumference of the metal sleeve. This will take a bit of time, but once these flanges are cut out, then the home-made press tool from here will work like a charm. One caveat, make sure you get either high grade nuts & bolts or get a few sets if you buy the cheap Home Depot ones (which is what I did).
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_17.html
Pic attached:
Name:  trailing arm bushing cut.jpg
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Tip #3: Rear upper coilover OE bushing removal - home made press tool
Inspired by the trailing arm removal link above, I got an extra long nut and bolt and pulled out the OE rear upper shock mount out of the black (bowl shaped) housing. It was extremely easy to do, the OE rubber mounts just slipped out. You will need a large plate to hold the nut and bolt in place on the "bowl" side of the black metal housing. Sorry, didn't get a pic, but made a drawing to show what I mean. Dwg attached:
Name:  rear upper bushing remove.jpg
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Tip #4: Getting the OE rear toe-rod bolts to fit the BMR adjustable links
I think the process that BMR used to press their zinc plated sleeve into the red urethane bushing deformed the ID of the sleeves. The OE rear link bolts would not fit! I used a vernier caliper to check the sleeve ID vs the bolt OD and found a difference of only 0.2 mm! Took out my trusty Craftsman cordless drill and a sharp 3/8" bit. Buzzed the inner lip of the sleeve and voila, the bolt now fits. But, now I've lost the zinc plating there, so I'll have to put a little Never Sieze.

Hope these tips were as useful for you as they are for me. Other than these little hurdles, the entire re&re went very well. Now just gotta wait for the snow to stop falling and the salt to wash away.


Update add Tip #5: Pfadt front coilover upper spring perch mount install.
The Pfadt 2.5" front coilovers requires you to remove the upper OE black (rubber) or yellow (later models, foam) spring isolators. This is replaced by a metal mount that must be hand pressed & fitted into the upper OEM strut top. See Pfadt's post here (4th & 5th picture down):
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79323
These Pfadt upper spring mounts friction fit into the OEM strut top and will require a lot of patience and oomph to press in by hand. It has to go straight in since the fit is very close tolerance (don't try to press them together cock-eyed). Once you have the Pfadt spring mount into the proper position, you will feel them go in. You may also want to try rotating the two parts as you press to find an alignment between the two parts that will allow them to press together easier. I hope I'm making sense. But once you start trying to press it in, this will make sense.

Cheers!
Tom
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447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM

Last edited by Avalnch; 01-16-2011 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:38 PM   #2
Apex Motorsports
 
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Nice write up. Have you taken her out for a run yet? That is a solid package.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:00 PM   #3
1977and2010
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Nice write up, I have nearly the same setup except the nonadjustable toe links. You'll love the solid feel your car will have. The only thing I would do different is move to Florida. I just got back from dinner in my Camaro and am going autocrossing tomorrow. No snow or salt here, Ha ha
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:10 PM   #4
Avalnch

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
Nice write up. Have you taken her out for a run yet? That is a solid package.
Thanks. I think removing the OE front endlinks should be in EVERY vendors' sway bar instructions. No runs yet, this baby is a Garage Queen ^_^. Probably not until March. Weather will clear up and all the fun begins. I'll probably get in a couple of track days at PIR too (Portland International Raceway). I'll get some vids up.

Yes, I totally agree that it's a solid package. All the Pfadt parts are very nice and top of the line in terms of quality and finish. Actually, my buddy talked me into getting the camber plates too, so they are on the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1977and2010 View Post
Nice write up, I have nearly the same setup except the nonadjustable toe links. You'll love the solid feel your car will have. The only thing I would do different is move to Florida. I just got back from dinner in my Camaro and am going autocrossing tomorrow. No snow or salt here, Ha ha
Whaaaa! Don't tease us who live in the Great White North! LOL Seriously though, they put a lot of salt on the ground this year and I just hate that stuff.
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Vengeance Kaotik Cam, C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter+2012LS3VERT bushing, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter. Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms, Pegasus Solid Subframe. Pedders ZL1 barz, radius arm & steering rack bushings. BMR adjustable toe-rods. Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace. ZL1 GMPP Driveline Upgrade. TurnOne P/S pump. CTS-V 6 pistons.
447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:17 AM   #5
Apex Motorsports
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
Thanks. I think removing the OE front endlinks should be in EVERY vendors' sway bar instructions. No runs yet, this baby is a Garage Queen ^_^. Probably not until March. Weather will clear up and all the fun begins. I'll probably get in a couple of track days at PIR too (Portland International Raceway). I'll get some vids up.

Yes, I totally agree that it's a solid package. All the Pfadt parts are very nice and top of the line in terms of quality and finish. Actually, my buddy talked me into getting the camber plates too, so they are on the way.
Awesome, can't wait to read the feedback. The quality and engineering of Pfadt products is second to none.
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:34 AM   #6
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Thanks so much for posting this info up Avalnch! This will be very helpful for people.

So I am assuming the install went pretty well?
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Old 01-21-2011, 02:53 PM   #7
Avalnch

 
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Thanks so much for posting this info up Avalnch! This will be very helpful for people.

So I am assuming the install went pretty well?
Always glad to help, especially since I also got so much help from other forum members and their tech posts.

Yes, the install went quite smoothly. All the Pfadt parts were easy to install. Now the hard (and fun) part begins with setting it up properly for my primary goal which is Autocrossing.
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447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM
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