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Old 02-06-2011, 07:11 PM   #1
Zabo
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AutoTrix 'Window Fix Kit' - Worth the bother?

Now it's above and beyond common knowledge that if you own a 4th gen F body with power windows you're going to have those motors fail.

Multiple times..

Now I've replaced one of my motors once, but also noticed that after the procedure the motor was still a tad slower than the drivers side (due supposedly to the wiring harness design). Doing some reasearch I found out about this little wonder kit/snake oil kit.

http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Pass...Fix-Kit_1.aspx



Supposedly it modifies the harness with the addition of a relay to produce a 'boost' in voltage to the motor, allowing the motor to run at the proper voltage as opposed to that supplied (with substantial loss) through the factory harness.

For 35 bucks plus shipping it seems like a quick fix (they even sell express down kits to add into the fix and even a whole kit with a pair of motors and the express kits).

Anyone try this? Worth it? Or is it just snake oil?
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:26 PM   #2
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Thanks for posting! I'm def gonna look into this- my driver window is out right now...
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:48 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Revo1 View Post
Thanks for posting! I'm def gonna look into this- my driver window is out right now...
Original motor or a replacement? I was hoping some former 4th gen owners here had heard of it or at least attempted it. I'm seriously going to look into the kit once I do some more research. It's 2nd in line after repairing my rear deck from years of delamination.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:52 PM   #4
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Thanks for posting! I'm def gonna look into this- my driver window is out right now...

Mine's been close to death for like four months now. Sometimes, t won't roll down all the way right when I start her up. Sometimes it will. It just depends on whether or not I actually need it to go down all the way, and Murphy's Law does the rest.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:57 PM   #5
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GM supplies 12 volts to the drivers side switch. Then comes off the drivers side switch to the passengers switch. So what happens is, when you roll both windows up or down at the same time you are splitting the voltage. Now you have 6 volts trying to run a 10-12 volt motor thus burning them up prematurely. Combined with the heavier windows that spells disaster. So, replace your motor and then try and remember to roll the windows up 1 at a time and this will extend the life of the motor tremendously. You see the same thing with any 2 door GM car. i.e. Grand Prix, Monte Carlo etc. Believe me with both switches there together, it is hard to refrain from doing both at once.
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Old 02-06-2011, 11:26 PM   #6
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heres some more help http://www.fbodyonline.com/forum/f20...dow-fix-23707/
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barney1golf View Post
GM supplies 12 volts to the drivers side switch. Then comes off the drivers side switch to the passengers switch. So what happens is, when you roll both windows up or down at the same time you are splitting the voltage. Now you have 6 volts trying to run a 10-12 volt motor thus burning them up prematurely. Combined with the heavier windows that spells disaster. So, replace your motor and then try and remember to roll the windows up 1 at a time and this will extend the life of the motor tremendously. You see the same thing with any 2 door GM car. i.e. Grand Prix, Monte Carlo etc. Believe me with both switches there together, it is hard to refrain from doing both at once.
My '97 still has the factory motors.... it does go a lot slower with both, so I usually roll both up at different times. I know on mine I can roll them up and down with the ignition off (til the doors open).... but it really bogs down, do you think that could cause it to wear down faster? I try to take it easy on it and rarely do it with the key out.
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by helmincamaro View Post
My '97 still has the factory motors.... it does go a lot slower with both, so I usually roll both up at different times. I know on mine I can roll them up and down with the ignition off (til the doors open).... but it really bogs down, do you think that could cause it to wear down faster? I try to take it easy on it and rarely do it with the key out.
I don't know if it will be faster, but you are basically doing the same thing with engine off. The altenater recharges the battery, so with the engine off you are relying only on the strength of your battery. If your battery is a little weak and not holding a full charge you will be low on voltage with the engine off. Basically causing the same effect as splitting the voltage. Then you have to decide is my battery weak or is my altenater not fully charging it back up. That is why I usually twice a year stop by Autozone and have them do a complete check on the charging system, they do it free of charge. You also have to remember when your ignition is off before you open the doors, other things are still pulling on the battery as well, like the radio and blower motor or whatever else you have left on. Its a nice convenience to be able to do those things before you open the door, but not good on the charging system.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barney1golf View Post
GM supplies 12 volts to the drivers side switch. Then comes off the drivers side switch to the passengers switch. So what happens is, when you roll both windows up or down at the same time you are splitting the voltage. Now you have 6 volts trying to run a 10-12 volt motor thus burning them up prematurely. Combined with the heavier windows that spells disaster. So, replace your motor and then try and remember to roll the windows up 1 at a time and this will extend the life of the motor tremendously. You see the same thing with any 2 door GM car. i.e. Grand Prix, Monte Carlo etc. Believe me with both switches there together, it is hard to refrain from doing both at once.
I have a 1996 Monte Carlo with original window motors. The first thing that went out was the tracks. However on my T/A even if I open the windows one at a time it's still quite noticeable that the passenger side is slow and strains, even when I replaced that motor with a doorman unit 4 months ago.

There is also no noticeable performance drop in the charging system with the engine on (off everything drags regardless) so I'm pretty sure it's the factory design doing it's thing.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barney1golf View Post
GM supplies 12 volts to the drivers side switch. Then comes off the drivers side switch to the passengers switch. So what happens is, when you roll both windows up or down at the same time you are splitting the voltage. Now you have 6 volts trying to run a 10-12 volt motor thus burning them up prematurely. Combined with the heavier windows that spells disaster. So, replace your motor and then try and remember to roll the windows up 1 at a time and this will extend the life of the motor tremendously. You see the same thing with any 2 door GM car. i.e. Grand Prix, Monte Carlo etc. Believe me with both switches there together, it is hard to refrain from doing both at once.
Have you checked this with a meter? I doubt that they are "splitting the voltage". If it is wired how you say, you may getting a voltage "drop" from running the current across a long thin wire, but not a "split".
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:13 AM   #11
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I installed and it works great! No snake oil here.

Original design is poor because the passenger window controls pass through the drivers door before going to the passenger door. Voltage drop is real and has been verified over and over. Primary cause of motors going out and running slow.

I also added the relay for express down used on the driver door. Now both windows express down on my car.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:05 AM   #12
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I installed and it works great! No snake oil here.
How hard was the install? Or did you have someone do it for you?
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:00 PM   #13
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Not hard to do.

I give it a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10. Most time is spent running a dedicated wire directly from the battery to the door. Wiring instructions included are straight forward.

At the time Autotrix did not offer the express down option. I did it myself by buying the drivers side express relay and wiring it in. I'm sure their bundled kit would be simpler.
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:05 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by blaSSt View Post
I installed and it works great! No snake oil here.

Original design is poor because the passenger window controls pass through the drivers door before going to the passenger door. Voltage drop is real and has been verified over and over. Primary cause of motors going out and running slow.

I also added the relay for express down used on the driver door. Now both windows express down on my car.
Thank You!!!!!!!!!
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