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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Any DIY for switching rear ends?
Anyone know of a DIY thread that shows how to switch out a rearend? I'm thinking about buying a JRE rearend but want to see what's involved with switching out the rearend. I guess my biggest question will be how to remove/install the half shafts.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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I need this too. I can't find it now but I read in a posting somewhere about only have to basically remove one side and then sliding it out towards that side...
ETA: I guess I could follow the instructions for installing subframe bushings (I've already done that in the past) and figure it out from there. It would probably be easier to take the differential out with it completely away from the car... Last edited by blake-b; 02-23-2011 at 12:44 PM. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I would imagine you could take out the half shafts and lower it out. I've seen some instructions from Pfadt on how to remove the rearend to put in their bushings but when it come to the half shaft part they just say remove them. No instructions on what that intales. Then the reinstall instructions were bascially....do everything in reverse.
I was hoping someone made a more detailed one.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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#4 |
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BAMF SS
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take off wheels, take off exhaust, unbolt trailing arm, unbolt brake line, unbolt top of spindle from control arm, slide halfshafts out of differential, , unbolt driveshaft, unbolt the 3 differential mouning bolts, hope you have a friend strong enough to bring the pumpkin down.
oh yeah and drain the differential before taking it out... makes it lighter. lather, rinse, and repeat.
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2016 1SS A8: FBO + Circle D + P1X + Meth + Tuned by Pray Performance
Stock Longblock 800 SAE rwhp. 9.4 @ 145 mph. |
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#5 | |
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BAMF SS
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Quote:
or am I that big of a dick on the phone?
__________________
2016 1SS A8: FBO + Circle D + P1X + Meth + Tuned by Pray Performance
Stock Longblock 800 SAE rwhp. 9.4 @ 145 mph. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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Duh... I hadn't even thought of looking at the instructions for differential bushings. I will be undertaking this over the weekend. I used Pfadt's instructions for the subframe bushings and they were spot on. I can only assume the differential bushings will be also.
I'll post up when I am done. I am exchanging the differential so it will be a two-part process and hopefully won't seem that long since there will be several days between the removal and installation. |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Try to make some kind of DIY thread if you can and post the link here.
Which rearend did you get? Which gears did you go with? I'm still on the fence between 3.70 or 4.11 in an LS3. Especailly since there have been issues with the 4.10 gears failing.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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Oh, I will be calling you. It's a good thing I promised to love her forever... because I think she is going to keep me around that long to get back at me for things like this.
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#9 |
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I just removed my differential last night, and going to sending to JRE this weekend. These are the steps I used to remove the unit.
1. Remove rear wheels 2. Remove rear exhaust section (aftrmarket) 3. Remove 3 bolts holding u-joint to differential 4. Remove 3 housing nuts (18mm), leave bolts in 5. Remove 10mm brake hose bolt and 10mm wheel speed sensors (both sides) 6. Remove (4) 18mm bolts and nuts on following (outer lower control arm, outer upper control arm, outer toe rod, outer control arm) Keep axle nuts installed 7. Find something to support the rotor, axle, spindle assembly, I used car ramps or milk crate of sorts...you will need a partner for this 8. One person under the car pops the axle out of the differential and the other person will pull on the rotor assembly (don't over pull on your brake lines) rest the axle, rotor, spindle on the milk crate or ramp and repeat for the other side 9. Bring a jack under the differential and put slight pressure on differential housing remove the remaining 3 bolts that you loosened earlier, remove vent tube on housing 10. Lower housing and remove out from under the car (about 80Lbs) 11. Like any other manual (Reverse proceedure on install) Take a few pictures before you take things apart to note the orientation of the bolts..very straight forward install. Took about 45min to remove with air tools...hope this helps! Russ |
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#10 | ||
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BAMF SS
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Quote:
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You dont need two people. After you disconnect the top of the spindle, support it by hanging it on a bent coat hanger. When you are ready to pop the half shaft out of the pumpkin, just pull the spindle away from the differential. It is connected to the spindle by a (34mm?) nut, so if you pull on the spindle, you will be pulling on the halfshaft as well. Just don't pull too hard that you apply unwanted pressure on the brake line after the halfshaft breaks loose.
__________________
2016 1SS A8: FBO + Circle D + P1X + Meth + Tuned by Pray Performance
Stock Longblock 800 SAE rwhp. 9.4 @ 145 mph. |
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT/RS ABM Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 13,075
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What does the JRE rearend look like?
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2LT, RS, AT6 ABM, Gray Leather
Quote:
1100 Order accepted at dealer: 9/15/2009 - NPGV41. 2000 Order accepted by GM: 9/29/2009 3000 Accepted By Production Control: 9/30/2009 - TPW 10/26/09 3100 Sequenced:10/12/09 3300 Scheduled For Production:10/13/09 3400 Broadcast:10/22/09 3800 Produced:10/27/09 4000 Available To Ship:10/28/09 4200 Shipped:10/29/09 5000 Delivered To The Dealer:11/09/09 6000 Delivered To Customer:11/12/09 |
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#12 |
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BAMF SS
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LOL like the stock one except filled with the jre posi mod, billet caps, and gears of your choice.
__________________
2016 1SS A8: FBO + Circle D + P1X + Meth + Tuned by Pray Performance
Stock Longblock 800 SAE rwhp. 9.4 @ 145 mph. |
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#13 | ||
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SST...
Drives: SST Camaro 2010 Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Coast of Florida
Posts: 5,927
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Quote:
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Man you always crack me up when I read some of your posts... ![]() You really know your stuff on cars and abuse the heck out of everyone at the same time. Thanks for the laughs. Keep 'em comin'.
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#14 | |
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