Replacing Factory Subwoofer

[Jonny]

Hi all,

I'm thinking about replacing the factory subwoofer in my 2011 LT2 RS (convertible, of course).

I'd like to try replacing it without adding an amp to begin with, but can always add one later, if there's not enough improvement without it.

There don't seem to be a whole lot of decent free-air subs to choose from, but I stumbled across these and thought I might give them a try.

Boston Acoustics G310-44 (Dual Voice Coils - 4 ohm)
Boston Acoustics G310-4 (Single Voice Coil - 4 ohm)

If I end up buying an amp, it doesn't really matter which one I get, because I'll just get an amp that works with it. But does anyone know what the specs are on the B.A. (factory) amp to know which one I should try as a direct plug-n-play replacement?

Or, has anyone actually done a swap without adding an amp? If so, what did you use, and how does it sound?

Thanks,

Jonny

[Jonny]

Ok, I found one of Steve's posts (@********) where he says the factory woofer has 2 2 ohm voice coils. So, if it's wired in parallel, that means it's running @ 1 ohm, but if it's wired in series, it's running @ 4 ohms. I can't imagine that the factory amp is stable @ 1 ohm, so it must be wired in series running @ 4 ohms.

If I got the DVC sub above, and if my assumptions are correct, I'd have to wire it to 8 ohms to use it w/ the factory amp (guessing it's not a 2 ohm stable amp), meaning I'd only be getting half the sound from the amp. That means I want the SVC version.

Can someone who knows more than me verify my logic, if not my facts?

Thanks!

[OrangeVert]

Wow Jonny, wish I could help but that's way over my head. But I hope all goes well for you! Just curious, why are you replacing - not enough bass?

[Jonny]

Yeah, it just seems like all the bass is coming from the doors, and that the woofer isn't really doing anything. I figured if I could swap it with a $160 woofer and a $50 mounting bracket and get decent improvement, it would be money well spent. Of course, if I have to add an amp, and a harness, that starts driving the price up quite a bit...

[SilverTurtle]

Originally Posted by Jonny

Ok, I found one of Steve's posts (@********) where he says the factory woofer has 2 2 ohm voice coils. So, if it's wired in parallel, that means it's running @ 1 ohm, but if it's wired in series, it's running @ 4 ohms. I can't imagine that the factory amp is stable @ 1 ohm, so it must be wired in series running @ 4 ohms.

If I got the DVC sub above, and if my assumptions are correct, I'd have to wire it to 8 ohms to use it w/ the factory amp (guessing it's not a 2 ohm stable amp), meaning I'd only be getting half the sound from the amp. That means I want the SVC version.

Can someone who knows more than me verify my logic, if not my facts?

Thanks!

you'll want the Single Voice Coil model, Jonny... it wont sound right without it using the factory amp... something to remember is that the factory sub is also a free air sub, so make sure you're either using a free air sub or find a way to enclose the sub to make it perform like you want it to.


oh, and welcome to Camaro5... this is my "other" home forum now... check in the Texas regional section for some upcoming events and such

[dmullen]

I am also looking for a good 10" IB sub to go in the stock location with ********s mount that will be powered by a JL Audio XD300/1 amp. I believe I read we have around 6" of mounting depth. ID and Arc subs are looking like good bets for this location. They are not labeled as IB subs but I've been told they will work great in an IB install.

[Zeaux6]

For a great IB sub try the Wet Sounds XS-10FA. It is made for marine installations, but I have yet to find an IB sub that hits as hard and low with the required amount of power. I am putting 400 watts to the one in my boat and it takes it without any issues. Should retail for around $210.00.

[thorr]

I am thinking about going with a JL Audio XD700-5 amp and replacing the stock subwoofer with a JL Audio M10IB5-CG. That sub looks like it has pretty good specs and would work well with the amp. That way I can have all around hopefully greatly improved audio and not have to do anything too drastic. I can always upgrade the other speakers later if I feel the need. I don't necessarily need to feel the bass but as long as it is there and sounds good, I will be happy. I also thought about getting a buttkicker to also feel the bass, but that might be a bit extreme. It would be a good solution to not taking up any usable space though!

[medicineman]

i am a recent forum user (today as a matter of fact) and recently bought a 2011 camaro ss with the BA sound system. volume-wise it is sufficient, but if i try to hit any real bass the deck speakers start to burp. i was looking at buying a single amp and one 10-12" sub and allow the factory speakers alone. my question is first can i do this and second, with the sub install, will the deck speakers relinquish some of there bass so i can turn up the volume. thoughts??

[thorr]

If you read my post directly above yours, it is the same idea. Using the amp I suggested, you should be able to send the bass to the subwoofer and away from the main speakers. See page 7 of the manual talking about filter controls: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/19304.pdf

If you are buying just a subwoofer amp, then you won't be able to separate the bass from the mains unless you do it on the head unit and send the bass only to the front speakers and use that for the subwoofer amp as well (not sure what is capable of since I don't have mine yet). The way I suggested is much easier.

[chopper]

I was basically.going to run the same setup as third mentioned above same amp but use a w3 sub to replace the factory sub...but I can't imagine a w3 sounding any good being that the qts is .4 the jl audio marine series subs are free air and have a qts of. 7 something but I was told the.grills that protects the speaker cannot be removed so does anyone know if u can still mount it in the factory spot and still be able to out the seat backup properly?

[chopper]

I.meant thorr sorry bud typo

[thorr]

It looks like it sticks out about 1.25" above the mounting surface judging from the diagram. Maybe Steve at ******** can advise about how much room there is above the mounting surface. My guess is that it will fit, but it might make the seats stick up a bit where the speaker is. The back seats are already pretty uncomfortable so it might not make much difference. ;-)

Also, there is that black rubber material that leads to the hole in the middle of the back seats. It can probably be removed if it gets in the way and would make more room.

[Lightson357]

Updates ?