2010 2SS/RS A6 cant burn out???? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ohhno · 03-05-2012, 05:09 PM

My car is a stock 2010 2SS/RS A6 flappy tranny. Just hit 30k miles. Seriously stock...3 diff dealerships have done all the oil changes etc. I installed a reusable after market air filter. Daily driver, drove across a few times....a real car.

My car can not for the life of it burn out standing still even with me cheating. I know about traction control and the competitive mode. I am also pretty sure I have this intermittent knock sometimes at startup. I am unwilling to go to dealership I just used after way way tooooooooooo many miles and over a quarter tank in their "test drives" for an oil change and a warrantied leak.

I guess I am looking for advice/help. Advice if your car did similar things. Advice if anyone knows by name a dealerships service depo i can go to in riverside or san diego california.

Forgive me for poor grammer and spelling
OhhNo

Iwantone2 · 03-05-2012, 05:36 PM

Regarding your car not being able to burn out, the first thing I would recommend is the "fuse pull":

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38964

In regards to the "intermittent knock sometimes at startup", it may possibly be the AFM lifters that need to be replaced. A quick search for "L99 lifter tick" will yield the following:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/search...rchid=13634028

IROCanSS · 03-05-2012, 05:38 PM

You don't have competition mode in the A6.

The Stig · 03-05-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iwantone2

Regarding your car not being able to burn out, the first thing I would recommend is the "fuse pull":

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38964

In regards to the "intermittent knock sometimes at startup", it may possibly be the AFM lifters that need to be replaced. A quick search for "L99 lifter tick" will yield the following:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/search...rchid=13634028

+1 for the fuse pull

ohhno · 03-05-2012, 05:46 PM

Saw the fuse pull a bit ago planning on doing it after i re-refill on proper fuel. I know the dealer test drove my car for way to long and used all my fuel and I am sure he and every other dealer thats touched it has put in lawn mower gas.

The lifter tick scares me...I need advice on some good dealers service dep. Taken it in and pretty sure been highly horror story burned by the previous dealership I let touch my first true love.

How can i prove the tic? Saw someone had recorded the noise....and the dealer worked with that....is that legit?

I apologize for the poor spelling and grammer
Much obliged for any and all advice/assistance.

OhhNo

Iwantone2 · 03-05-2012, 05:51 PM

I think that the only way to prove it is to bring the car to the dealership and let them listen to the ticking sound. You may want to point out the following service bulletin when you do go:

http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread...5219&p=3182955

I've taken my car for several items to Connell Chevrolet in Costa Mesa, CA.

Godon Hutchinson · 03-05-2012, 05:52 PM

Ive got a 2010 SS/RS A6 and my will blister the tires off. Not sure what your doing wrong . When you turn off traction control are you holding the button down long enough to turn off both traction control and stabitrac. hold it down for about 8 seconds until both lights come on.

MMC · 03-05-2012, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IROCanSS

You don't have competition mode in the A6.

The A6 has the competive mode same as the M6, just not launch control.

COMPETITIVE MODE AND LAUNCH CONTROL (V8)

Note:
Competitive Mode and Launch Control are recommended only for use during closed track

events and competitive driving venues. See your Owner Manual.

Competitive Mode
Competitive Mode is an optional handling mode.
• To turn on the Competitive Mode, press the

StabiliTrak/Traction Control button

twice quickly. Competitive Mode will be displayed in the Driver Information Center.
• Press the button again to return to normal StabiliTrak/traction control operation.

Launch Control (V8 with Manual Transmission)
Launch Control is a form of traction control that optimizes wheelspin while launching the
vehicle. It is activated when the vehicle is at a standstill while in Competitive Mode.
When the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor with the clutch engaged, the RPM is
limited to a predetermined level. Releasing the clutch while keeping the accelerator
pressed to the floor provides controlled wheelspin and acceleration.

See Driving and Operating in your Owner Manual.

Juiced1 · 03-05-2012, 06:29 PM

Are you trying to brake torque it? With torque management it's not to easy to spin the tires from a stop on new cars these days. Especially automatics.

ohhno · 03-05-2012, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced1

Are you trying to brake torque it? With torque management it's not to easy to spin the tires from a stop on new cars these days. Especially automatics.

I know it makes me sound like I am 14 in my dads Tahoe again but I tried that after one day deciding to mash on my car and it gave me little to no power and not even a chirp of the tires. Don't worry I am not a total clown.

Is it realistic to ask a dealership to show me what it says when they plug into my car?

@Godon Hutchinson My car used to share your tire shredding capabilities.

Wish I could say I have 10grand in suspension and a set of slicks but I do not.

Scalded Dog · 03-06-2012, 01:39 PM

I'm banking on the Stabilitrac/ traction control issue as suggested by Godon Hutchinson. The owner's manual sort of indicates that pressing the override button, which then illuminates the dash light SUGGESTING that it is off, will then permit wheelspin. However, you need to hold the button down for quite a while (up to ten seconds) before ANOTHER light will illuminate on the dash. NOW your traction control is off, and you should be able to light 'em up.

To resume normal operation, it takes only a brief press of the button to return to default settings, and dash lights will turn off.

This threw me off for a while, too... I thought I had turned traction control off, but had not reached the "second level" of disabling the system... and even on a wet road while power braking, couldn't make the thing spin a tire. However, once I figured out that there were multiple disengagement stages, I now have to buy tires every two weeks.

Okay, that's an exaggeration... but you get the idea!

JGN · 03-06-2012, 01:54 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I recall reading in the owners manual that the SS A6 starts off from 2nd gear when in automatic. Tap down to first and setting up competitive mode should shred the tires.

kbui · 03-06-2012, 02:28 PM

Torque management is your biggest problem. It's doing everything it can to prevent you from breaking loose. In Sport mode (not using tap shift) you are starting in 1st. With a tune to reduce some of this torque management, it would feel like a different car.

ohhno · 03-08-2012, 06:18 PM

Have tried in all settings of traction/stabilitrac. I guess that was just my way of explaining my grossly underpowered car...as well as how I noticed it.

Doing my first mod (haha) the fuse pull today. Hopefully it works.

Been reading about crummy oxygen sensors in the air intake.....something about only a single digit on the sensor means its bad? Is this something that a simple washable aftermarket air filter (i think its k & n) can mess up?

Does anyone know what exactly the difference between M1 and S on my flappy A6 transmission?

I appreciate all the responses all good stuff. Wish I knew about this site when I bought my camaro in 09.

03-05-2012, 05:09 PM	#1
ohhno Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: socal Posts: 5	2010 2SS/RS A6 cant burn out???? My car is a stock 2010 2SS/RS A6 flappy tranny. Just hit 30k miles. Seriously stock...3 diff dealerships have done all the oil changes etc. I installed a reusable after market air filter. Daily driver, drove across a few times....a real car. My car can not for the life of it burn out standing still even with me cheating. I know about traction control and the competitive mode. I am also pretty sure I have this intermittent knock sometimes at startup. I am unwilling to go to dealership I just used after way way tooooooooooo many miles and over a quarter tank in their "test drives" for an oil change and a warrantied leak. I guess I am looking for advice/help. Advice if your car did similar things. Advice if anyone knows by name a dealerships service depo i can go to in riverside or san diego california. Forgive me for poor grammer and spelling OhhNo

03-05-2012, 05:36 PM	#2
Iwantone2 Voice Of The Voiceless Drives: CGM 1SS RS Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: OC Cali Posts: 9,610 View My Garage	Regarding your car not being able to burn out, the first thing I would recommend is the "fuse pull": http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38964 In regards to the "intermittent knock sometimes at startup", it may possibly be the AFM lifters that need to be replaced. A quick search for "L99 lifter tick" will yield the following: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/search...rchid=13634028 __________________

03-05-2012, 05:51 PM	#6
Iwantone2 Voice Of The Voiceless Drives: CGM 1SS RS Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: OC Cali Posts: 9,610 View My Garage	I think that the only way to prove it is to bring the car to the dealership and let them listen to the ticking sound. You may want to point out the following service bulletin when you do go: http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread...5219&p=3182955 I've taken my car for several items to Connell Chevrolet in Costa Mesa, CA. __________________

03-06-2012, 02:28 PM	#13
kbui Drives: 85 Vette, 07 Escalade ESV, 03 GMC, Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 927 View My Garage	Torque management is your biggest problem. It's doing everything it can to prevent you from breaking loose. In Sport mode (not using tap shift) you are starting in 1st. With a tune to reduce some of this torque management, it would feel like a different car. __________________ ADM Performance installed and tuned: Maggie, Stainless Works Power LTs, ADM race cai, ADM ZL1 scoop Whiteside Customs Super Street 2 Package w/ coilovers BC Racing Coilovers and lowered, Whiteline Bushings & Swaybars MBRP catback exhaust, ZL1 bumper conversion, Drake billet shifter, Hurst paddles, NLP rear spoiler, OEM GFX, Vis Racing hood, ASA GT5 wheels

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03-05-2012, 05:38 PM	#3
IROCanSS Account Suspended Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Back roads, southern Ohio Posts: 12,504 View My Garage	You don't have competition mode in the A6.

03-05-2012, 05:46 PM	#5
ohhno Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: socal Posts: 5	Saw the fuse pull a bit ago planning on doing it after i re-refill on proper fuel. I know the dealer test drove my car for way to long and used all my fuel and I am sure he and every other dealer thats touched it has put in lawn mower gas. The lifter tick scares me...I need advice on some good dealers service dep. Taken it in and pretty sure been highly horror story burned by the previous dealership I let touch my first true love. How can i prove the tic? Saw someone had recorded the noise....and the dealer worked with that....is that legit? I apologize for the poor spelling and grammer Much obliged for any and all advice/assistance. OhhNo

03-05-2012, 05:52 PM	#7
Godon Hutchinson Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Huntington West Va Posts: 443	Ive got a 2010 SS/RS A6 and my will blister the tires off. Not sure what your doing wrong . When you turn off traction control are you holding the button down long enough to turn off both traction control and stabitrac. hold it down for about 8 seconds until both lights come on.

03-05-2012, 06:29 PM	#9
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,648	Are you trying to brake torque it? With torque management it's not to easy to spin the tires from a stop on new cars these days. Especially automatics.

03-06-2012, 01:39 PM	#11
Scalded Dog Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Crestline, CA Posts: 3,029	I'm banking on the Stabilitrac/ traction control issue as suggested by Godon Hutchinson. The owner's manual sort of indicates that pressing the override button, which then illuminates the dash light SUGGESTING that it is off, will then permit wheelspin. However, you need to hold the button down for quite a while (up to ten seconds) before ANOTHER light will illuminate on the dash. NOW your traction control is off, and you should be able to light 'em up. To resume normal operation, it takes only a brief press of the button to return to default settings, and dash lights will turn off. This threw me off for a while, too... I thought I had turned traction control off, but had not reached the "second level" of disabling the system... and even on a wet road while power braking, couldn't make the thing spin a tire. However, once I figured out that there were multiple disengagement stages, I now have to buy tires every two weeks. Okay, that's an exaggeration... but you get the idea!

03-06-2012, 01:54 PM	#12
JGN Drives: 2010 CGM 2LT Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Posts: 14	Correct me if I'm wrong, but I recall reading in the owners manual that the SS A6 starts off from 2nd gear when in automatic. Tap down to first and setting up competitive mode should shred the tires.

03-08-2012, 06:18 PM	#14
ohhno Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: socal Posts: 5	Have tried in all settings of traction/stabilitrac. I guess that was just my way of explaining my grossly underpowered car...as well as how I noticed it. Doing my first mod (haha) the fuse pull today. Hopefully it works. Been reading about crummy oxygen sensors in the air intake.....something about only a single digit on the sensor means its bad? Is this something that a simple washable aftermarket air filter (i think its k & n) can mess up? Does anyone know what exactly the difference between M1 and S on my flappy A6 transmission? I appreciate all the responses all good stuff. Wish I knew about this site when I bought my camaro in 09.