Required post-mod tweaks?

[Runawayhacker]

I remember seeing somewhere that after installing a CAI, you need to have the dealership re-program your Camaro to adjust to the change. Perhaps tweaking the mass airflow sensor? Is this true?

And while we are here, my clutch doesn't feel quite as "tight" as it did when it was new. I only have 4000 miles on it and am an experienced stick driver. I read that the hydrolic clutch shares the same reservoir with the brakes. I've noticed some leakage on top of the reservoir container. Not major, just enough to cover the top and make it greasy. Is there anything I can do myself to maintain this or should I have the dealer take a look at this?

Depending on the answer, I may look at adding a separate reservoir. Anyone already have one? Is it worth it?

P.S. Sorry for the mixed bag of questions. Felt like they weren't major enough to start a thread for each.

[The Stig]

No that is not true. I highly suggest getting a separate clutch fluid reservoir, it's a very cheap mod and completely worth it.

[Jose]

I can answer for the intake. YES tune is required, you changed the fuel/air mix ratio and that must be fixed by a tune.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by Jose

I can answer for the intake. YES tune is required, you changed the fuel/air mix ratio and that must be fixed by a tune.

This is incorrect. SOME intakes require a tune (example is the tune version of the Vararam intake) but most of the intakes on the market do NOT require a tune.

[Runawayhacker]

Ok, since it is model specific, I suppose that the K&N Typhoon CAI for the SS does not require tuning. Is that right?

[LADYBMBLEBEE]

I have a Cold Air Inductions CAI on my 2012 L99 no tune was necessary.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by Runawayhacker

Ok, since it is model specific, I suppose that the K&N Typhoon CAI for the SS does not require tuning. Is that right?

correct. It does not require a tune.

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by stieger

correct. It does not require a tune.

[Alain]

i bought that second reservoir kit for the clutch from a member here on the site (can't remember his name). just haven't gotten around to install it.

can anyone tell me why it's such a good thing for they clutch and brakes to have different reservoirs?

[geaux_tigerss]

Originally Posted by Alain

i bought that second reservoir kit for the clutch from a member here on the site (can't remember his name). just haven't gotten around to install it.

can anyone tell me why it's such a good thing for they clutch and brakes to have different reservoirs?

Clutch dust makes it into the fluid. Don't ask me for the source. I didn't believe it either. I thought it was a sealed system, but it makes it in there. Clutch dust in the hydraulic fluid ruins o-rings in the clutch actuation cylinders. Having a second, smaller reservoir makes changing the fluid frequently easy. This prevents dust buildup and lengthens clutch life. It also keeps clutch dust out of your braking (safety) system. There's a huge thread on it somewhere on this site (can't search from my phone).

[daveagogo1]

To answer the OP's first question properly it depends on the MAF you have and the match of bolt ons.

My very first mod was a CAI Inc intake. Worked great. A while later i added a ported TB and it too worked great for a short time. All of the sudden my car started bogging down badly at WOT and generally performing like a dog. Went over everything multiple times and FINALLY i discovered the problem.

My factory MAF was a "weak" one. Bought a "strong" one from Chase at Apex and poof. All my issues went away and never returned. This is more than a year later and still going strong. (I tested my old MAF in a buddies stock SS and it worked just fine. So, wasn't faulty just weak and unable to properly work with the combined added airflow pattern)

While my car does not have a tune and did not need one. I did in fact need to change out my MAF for a stronger one once i coupled that ported TB along with the CAI.

Not everyone experiences this but, i sure did.

[ss/rs-matt]

No, a CAI to not NEED a tune but if you want the most out of it, it does.

[Higgs Boson]

Originally Posted by geaux_tigerss

Clutch dust makes it into the fluid. Don't ask me for the source. I didn't believe it either. I thought it was a sealed system, but it makes it in there. Clutch dust in the hydraulic fluid ruins o-rings in the clutch actuation cylinders. Having a second, smaller reservoir makes changing the fluid frequently easy. This prevents dust buildup and lengthens clutch life. It also keeps clutch dust out of your braking (safety) system. There's a huge thread on it somewhere on this site (can't search from my phone).

It isn't clutch dust. It's burned fluid. The slave cylinder being where it is on these cars, Corvettes, and 4th gen camaros has made it a very common issue since the late 90s. The fluid gets really hot and it makes the pedal stick or return slowly.

But you are right, the Corvettes come with a separate reservoir stock and you can just change out the fluid from the top on a regular basis since bleeding the system is a pita without a remote bleeder.

[Birm]

Originally Posted by Jose

I can answer for the intake. YES tune is required, you changed the fuel/air mix ratio and that must be fixed by a tune.

You are incorrect, some systems require a tune and they are specified by the manufacture.

A tune however WILL help maximize performance gains.

To reset your MAF and everything else just unplug your battery, wait a few and hook it back up. It will automatically reset/relearn.