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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6
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Brake pad life
Just a quick question. I have 36kish miles on my 2010 and the rear brake pads are worn completely through, metal to metal. I told the dealer to replace them since it's already in for some warranty work. I just wanted to know if that's typical, and also am a bit curious why the back would wear out before the front. I'm sure they need replaced soon but I thought the front usually took the brunt of the force in braking. Any thoughts?
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 1LT/RS A6 RJT SuperCharged Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: 87114
Posts: 3,501
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52k miles on my stockers so far.
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Power is worthless without control. The 2nd protects the 1st.
BMR sub frame brace, BMR tunnel brace, LSR sways, LSR CM ca & tl, Sphon ExD el, GM tower brace, Megan EZ Streets, Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines, PowerStop D/S rotors & pads, Doug Thorty Ceramic Shorties, Magnaflow x-pipe, MRT V2.0, KICKER PowerStage sub & amp, Infinity speakers & tweeters, Viteese Throttle Controller, Viteese Paddle Shifters, ACS T2 Splitter, ACS T2 Ports/Quad LED lights, VDI kit, Havoc diffuser, IPF ECU/TRANS tuned, IPF/KPE Supercharged. 364RWHP/297RWTQ |
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6
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52k...hmmm I wonder why mine wore out so quckly, especially since most of my mileage has been highway driving. I guess I'll have to ask the dealer a few questions when I get there.
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#4 |
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I'll be back...
Drives: Subaru, HD Road Glide Special Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 3,036
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Just one side, or both?
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Bye bye, Bumblebee!
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,542
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Its all about how you drive it. Mine are mostly melted down to nothing at 3k. Got some new track pads going in soon.
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#6 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6
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It ended up both sides, although one was worn to being paper thin and the other had a couple of mm's left. They also adjusted a few things because they thought it was a bit soon too, especially considering the lack of comparable wear on the front brakes. I guess I just get to keep an eye on it and see if it it starts eating through brake pads.
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#7 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6
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I'm pretty nice to it. I'm still running original tires in good shape (well decent shape) but the brakes were shot. I expected the tires to go long before brakes.
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#8 |
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OCD Solutions
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Brakes work with the traction control and stability. I have tons of dust on rear wheels normally. Drove like a grandma for a couple of days after i detailed it.......a lot less dust on rear wheels.
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COLOR="Gray"]2012 RS/SS L99 Silver Ice Metallic[/COLOR]
Texas Speed custom cam and Whipple 2.9 Work in progress stay tuned Pfadt Stage 2 kit with ZL-SPEC sway bars and rear arm kit Pfadt Coilovers Pedders Stage 1 bushings / BMR Subframe connectors and tunnel brace American Racing long tubes w/ high flow cats CAI Intake / Rotofab washer bottle / Roto Fab engine covers/JRE race scoop/Forgestar F-16 /Oracle LED side markers, backup lamps and DRL DYI 5 DRL harness / Heritage Grill |
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#9 |
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Just Because!
Drives: 2010 SIM 2SSRS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Jose, Ca
Posts: 6,909
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Worn out rear brakes= too many power brake burnouts!! And no, I'm not kidding.
Or there is something seriously wrong with your brake bias.
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#10 |
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Billy The Kid
Drives: Cyber Grey 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 637
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The Above post is right on the money with the problems. Mine are about 1/3 to 1/2 warn at 28k miles but i have done a few autocrosses and drive a little on the agressive side haha
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CGM 2SS/RS[SIZE="1"]
Performance: LT Headers/Stainless Works cat-back, 225/233 Cam, 1LE 3.91 gears, Custom Tune, BMR suspension, MGW Shifter, Stainless brake & clutch lines, Ideal G Master Cylinder, 275s on all 4 corners Aesthetics: ZL1 Spoiler, DIY LED marker lights, AACPlasma DRL, Yellow Calipers, painted factory wheels |
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#11 | |
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corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
Posts: 6,990
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Quote:
But . . . most traction control systems use the rear brakes as one of the strategies for reducing/eliminating wheelspin. So if you tend to launch hard, or power through or out of corners hard enough with the TC left on, the TC will be working the rear brakes while the fronts are just taking it easy. If you aren't actively looking for indication that the TC is working to suppress wheelspin, chances are you won't notice and won't know that your rear pads only are getting beat up on. Let me suggest doing a brake pad bedding process similar to what Hawk recommends for their performance street pads. Get in the habit of shutting the TC off, and using your head and your right foot to keep wheelspin under control. Check back in 12,000 miles or so with your pad wear rates. I suppose that TC is a useful enough system for the moron drivers that we're stuck sharing the road with, but it isn't really necessary once you've developed a little skill concerning throttle modulation. Cars never used to have it - We never had TC on any car in the first 45 years of my driving and the first 38 of hers. Most other people coped just fine, too. Norm Last edited by Norm Peterson; 09-24-2012 at 08:24 AM. |
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