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Old 12-10-2012, 01:02 PM   #1
2011WhiteSS
 
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LS7 Swap

Well, here's the story. I ran across a LS7 recently from a friend that spun a rod and main in his Zo6. Engine has less than 7k miles. He replaced it with a LSX 454 and retained the A&A Supercharger kit he had installed 2500 miles ago.

I got the LS7 block, crank, rods & pistons for $350 basically what he felt was scrap price. The shop said it was junk and wether they were blowing smoke because they wanted to try to keep it or they wanted to sell him the LSX engine or both. IDK????

Anyhoo, I'm picking it up this week and will drop it to the machine shop afterwards to clean and inspect. I got to take a look at it last week and to my untrained eye the crank had bearing material on the journals. Looked like pieces of putty stuck to it. I didn't see any gouges in any of the surfaces.
The mains where the bearing lays has a few minute scratches and a little booger where the tang of the bearing would locate.
2 of the main caps look burnt on each side around where the bearing lays.
2 of the rods look burnt also.

The decision of what caused it was the
oil pump was sucking air and was pumping foamy burnt oil. (I don't know about this description if its true) but if so could that be the blackened color on the rods and main caps????

If this LS7 is salvageable I'd like to put it in my '11 SS to replace my LS3.
Before anyone tells there opinion of how the cyl walls are thin and they won't hold boost and why not just use my LS3 and sleeve and bore and stroke that blah blah blah blah. Please I've heard and read the pros/cons.
I would like something different and unique. I'm not spraying or boosting this engine!!!! Period. All....N/A! So if it works out to be fixable I'm dropping it in.
LS7 short block, ported heads, cam, intake, headers, exhaust. And enjoy.

With that out of the way, some in depth questions for the more knowledgable builders/smart guys.

Some of the questions I'm sure can be answered by the machine shop but any insite beforehand to learn would be appreciated.

What's the process for checking a aluminum block for any cracks. Magna fluxing process is used for a magnetic material. So how's aluminum checked?

Same question for checking the titanium rods. Any special care and handling needed for titanium? Do's & don'ts?

Would the LS3 heads I have, be able to flow enough ported to support the LS7 CID for increased power?

What cam would work for increased power and have a nice/decent idle for 427 Cubes and ported LS3 heads?

I've read the crank snout is longer because of the "Dry Sump" system. Can that be machined or modified to use the LS3 hardware and pan and front accessories drive?
Can anyone give some input on how to modify/machine it down?

I will update with pictures this week to show the areas of concern and get some input from anyone about the rotating assembly.

Thanks.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:12 PM   #2
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I dont think you can put LS3 heads on an LS7 due to the bore being larger, but I might be wrong.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:17 PM   #3
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Short answer on the crank is its not easily usable.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:28 PM   #4
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I have spun bearings and still reused the crank. Just turned.

But if you spun a rod then you most likely will need to replace one or more if they contacted eachother at all.

People have used ls3 heads on 4.125 or more bore.

I have used a 220/244 247/252 and 254/265 cams all in my ls7 camaro. The 247/252 was a good combo of power and drive ability
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:38 PM   #5
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It's not cheap bud but do able. Here's a link so you can see.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...n/viewall.html

If you go that route a set of forged pistons is a must so are Ls7 heads and you'll need the intake manifold. The headers won't fit from an Ls3 iirc they are different.

As far as cams go, call Ed Curtis at flow tech. He has some badazz lobes for those heads.

Do it right bud, it will be worth it since you got it cheap. IMHO.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:46 PM   #6
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The problem I see with your LS7 block is you stated that a couple mains were spun and burnt. Most often this means the block is junk no matter what you want to hear, I would not use that block, find a different block to work with.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #7
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Machine the block, sleeve it to a 440, built it for war.... Call it a day. FTW! LOL.

Honestly, hard as hell to answer this without pics and micrometer measurements.

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Old 12-10-2012, 02:23 PM   #8
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Yes you can use the dry sump crank with some adapters/etc.

Get atleast some ls7 heads or you will be holding it back.

Ti rods need some special care.

Honestly, sounds like you bought $350 of scrap metal.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:45 PM   #9
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If that is the case can it not be welded up and align bored?
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:11 PM   #10
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Thanks for the post. I'll keep it updated and post pictures in a few days. I've been busy.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #11
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Cool do that! Curious what the machine shop says!
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
Cool do that! Curious what the machine shop says!
+1

this will be an awesome project. If you have any questions or need anything give LSR a call. We are here to help
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:44 PM   #13
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I saw a good thread on align boring on ls1tech the other day. Only reason I bring it up is because there was a link for slightly shorter timing chains. I'll have to see if I can dig that back up.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:43 AM   #14
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Your not too far from Livernois Motorsports. You could have them take a look. If there is any LS machine work question, they could definately steer you in the the right direction.

Even if the block is junk, there may be some incredibly expensive parts there for someone that needs some LS7 rods, if there are any good ones in there. Those Ti rods have a retail price of $801 apiece.
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