Power Bass help (non BA system)

[Airforceone]

I have a 2012 LS without a BA system. I previously had a MTX Road Thunder 8" Powered Bass Tube in another car that I now want to move into my Camaro (in the trunk).

While I like to consider myself a motor head and a fast learner, electrical, sound systems and wiring are not my strong suit.

First of all, is putting this sub in possible with little skill in the area. Id really prefer not to just take it to somebody or let a friend hack it up.

Second, I'm confusing myself by looking at other peoples threads and their set ups with the amps and the speakers separate.


Here are the details on the Sub:

Put big, bold bass into a small space with the MTX Road Thunder 8" amplified subwoofer tube. This all-in-one solution combines speakers, amp and enclosure that are designed to work perfectly together.

• 8" amplified subwoofer enclosure
• Built-in amplifier delivers up to 120 watts RMS power (up to 240 watts peak power)
• Wired remote controls amp level
• Preamp (RCA) and speaker-level inputs
• Frequency response: 35-250Hz
• Variable low-pass filter (50-200Hz, 12dB/octave)
• Includes mounting hardware
• RCA cable, power and ground wire not included (<-I have all this already)
• 21-1/4"L x 9-7/8"W x 9-7/8"H

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[lscamaro]

Yes, since it's a powered sub all you need is to get power from the battery, ground from the chassis and you can get the audio signal from the speakers. That's how I did it when I had my infinity basslink which is also a powered sub

[Airforceone]

Ok cool, thanks for the response. Power and ground I can figure out pretty easily. The signal is whats confusing me; i hear a lot of ppl talking about need to do some kind of LOC thing? (I truly apologize for how ignorant that sounds)

[Decibel JJ]

LOC stands for "line output converter". It's a module that converts the speaker power signal down to RCA level for amplifier input.

Your tube already has one built in because you have "speaker level" inputs. Just tap into your rear speaker wires, run it to those inputs and you're all set.

[Airforceone]

Thanks everyone, I'm a lot more confident installing it. I'll be putting it in this weekend and posting pictures. (of either a rockin tube, or a jumbled electrical mess)

[lscamaro]

All you have to do is basically t tap one of the speaker wires on the speakers and it should work. That's what I did for mine

[BigVic]

So, on a powered subwoofer with speaker-level inputs, you just need hot, ground and tap into the rear speaker lead, correct?

Just one of the rear speakers or both? Does it matter which of the two wires on the speaker? Sorry, but I am not well versed in this area...thanks all.

[Airforceone]

anyone have a picture of which wire to t-tap?

[side0ut]

You are going to need to run an ignition 12v wire (Remote Turn-On) to the sub enclosure also. Find a power source that turns off when you turn off your ignition and tap into it. So to re-cap, 1 constant power connection (8 or 4 Gauge power wire) run to the positive side of the battery, 1 ground connections (8 or 4 Gauge wire) run to a metal connection of you car frame, and 1 ignition remote power connection (14 gauge wire) run to something that turns off when you turn off your ignition. (This way, the amp will turn off also.)

Alot of people will locate their rear speakers and tap into the left and right side to run to an amp. If the amp only has one input then you can pick left or right. See the sticky post for this section for wiring diagrams for the color codes for which is positive and negative for the speaker wire. It is under the basic wiring harness.

Good luck.

[farmerokbag]

thanks.All you have to do is basically tap one of the speaker wires on the speakers and it should work.

[piramid]

Originally Posted by side0ut

You are going to need to run an ignition 12v wire (Remote Turn-On) to the sub enclosure also. Find a power source that turns off when you turn off your ignition and tap into it. So to re-cap, 1 constant power connection (8 or 4 Gauge power wire) run to the positive side of the battery, 1 ground connections (8 or 4 Gauge wire) run to a metal connection of you car frame, and 1 ignition remote power connection (14 gauge wire) run to something that turns off when you turn off your ignition. (This way, the amp will turn off also.)

Alot of people will locate their rear speakers and tap into the left and right side to run to an amp. If the amp only has one input then you can pick left or right. See the sticky post for this section for wiring diagrams for the color codes for which is positive and negative for the speaker wire. It is under the basic wiring harness.

Good luck.

Where can I find this sticky with wiring diagram for rear speakers

[Airforceone]

Ive had some people tell me not to T-tap; is that anything that realistically go wrong from a t-tap itself?

[Decibel JJ]

Originally Posted by Airforceone

Ive had some people tell me not to T-tap; is that anything that realistically go wrong from a t-tap itself?

Not really. Just be sure they're the right size (for your speaker wires, I'd use reds) and that they're locked when you crimp them down. I always twist them around to check them after I hear them lock.

There's a whole argument about t-taps (or worse .. Scotch locks) against soldering and shrink tube/tape or crimping and there different resistances and how one or the other fails. It's a pointless argument here.

For what you're doing, it's perfectly fine. Just watch what you're doing and crimp them correctly.

[Decibel JJ]

Originally Posted by side0ut

You are going to need to run an ignition 12v wire (Remote Turn-On) to the sub enclosure also. Find a power source that turns off when you turn off your ignition and tap into it. So to re-cap, 1 constant power connection (8 or 4 Gauge power wire) run to the positive side of the battery, 1 ground connections (8 or 4 Gauge wire) run to a metal connection of you car frame, and 1 ignition remote power connection (14 gauge wire) run to something that turns off when you turn off your ignition. (This way, the amp will turn off also.)

Alot of people will locate their rear speakers and tap into the left and right side to run to an amp. If the amp only has one input then you can pick left or right. See the sticky post for this section for wiring diagrams for the color codes for which is positive and negative for the speaker wire. It is under the basic wiring harness.

Good luck.

4 gauge power and 14 gauge remote for a amp that'll draw maybe 10-15 amps max????? How much overkill can you get?


BTW, check if your tube has signal sensing turn-on when you're using the high level inputs. If so, you don't need a remote wire.