Crimping Tool Problems

[pkauf]

I'm having trouble getting my quick attaches to crimp to the wire. I'm using T-taps along with a quick disconnects (similar to http://www.ebay.com/itm/150723882441...84.m1497.l2649)

I am trying to use the crimping portion of my "all in one" type stripper tool (similar to http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=360-630)

I just can't seem to get the "pinch" to work right - either it's me using the tool wrong, or I just have a cheapo crimper. Can anyone suggest either what I might be doing wrong, or another better tool that will crimp better?

Thanks

Paul

[scnhra]

Post a pic if you can. It would be a little easier to see what you are doing and what is wrong.

[CFD]

The tool should work with that terminal.

[Sir Nuke]

Those would work, its the same as the one I use, and never had a problem. We don't know how proficient you are in electrical work. Lets assume you don't do much at all or never have. With that in mind, FRIST you are crimping RED spade connections for 16-22 AWG wires. Look at your tool, you see the 3 dots at the crimp? yellow, blue, and red....when crimping a RED connector, you use the RED part so that you will get a good crimp. Now look at the connector, look where the metal is inside and be sure you have your tool over that portion so you crimp it real good.

[pkauf]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

Those would work, its the same as the one I use, and never had a problem. We don't know how proficient you are in electrical work. Lets assume you don't do much at all or never have. With that in mind, FRIST you are crimping RED spade connections for 16-22 AWG wires. Look at your tool, you see the 3 dots at the crimp? yellow, blue, and red....when crimping a RED connector, you use the RED part so that you will get a good crimp. Now look at the connector, look where the metal is inside and be sure you have your tool over that portion so you crimp it real good.

I'm using the red . . . But which one is correct, the one at the end of the tool (Insul Closure) or the one near the handles (Non Insul)?

I'm pretty good with electric/wiring stuff, i don't usually do alot of quick connects, i'm a solder guy. But I've always had trouble with getting a good crimp with this tool. I was trying to make sure I didn't just have the cheapo tool and there was a better one out there. Do I need to pinch until the stop on the crimper touches?

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by pkauf

I'm using the red . . . But which one is correct, the one at the end of the tool (Insul Closure) or the one near the handles (Non Insul)?

I'm pretty good with electric/wiring stuff, i don't usually do alot of quick connects, i'm a solder guy. But I've always had trouble with getting a good crimp with this tool. I was trying to make sure I didn't just have the cheapo tool and there was a better one out there. Do I need to pinch until the stop on the crimper touches?

the above post gives you your answer.....if you are using the INSULATED connectors you posted in the picture in the OP, then you should be using the part of the tool near the tip. if you are using non-insulated connectors, use the ones near the handles.

and YES to your last question above.

[motorhead]

First off from someone that has been doing electrical work for over 25 years that universal tool sucks. They are hard to get into tight places and design of them doesn't promote good leverage.
I use a crimper that is designed to do one thing and that is to crimp. With that tool I would use the uninsulated part of the tool just because it will give you more leverage for a tighter crimp. It will crush the plastic on the spade ,but most of time with low voltage that shouldn't be and issue. You could always put a piece of shrinkwrap on the wire before the spade goes on and pull up over the back of the spade once crimped. Also make sure that the wire isn't too small for the terminal that you are using. That can cause crimp problems. Remember though with a car, you're always better to use solder terminals than crimps.

[pkauf]

Originally Posted by motorhead

First off from someone that has been doing electrical work for over 25 years that universal tool sucks. They are hard to get into tight places and design of them doesn't promote good leverage.
I use a crimper that is designed to do one thing and that is to crimp. With that tool I would use the uninsulated part of the tool just because it will give you more leverage for a tighter crimp. It will crush the plastic on the spade ,but most of time with low voltage that shouldn't be and issue. You could always put a piece of shrinkwrap on the wire before the spade goes on and pull up over the back of the spade once crimped. Also make sure that the wire isn't too small for the terminal that you are using. That can cause crimp problems. Remember though with a car, you're always better to use solder terminals than crimps.

Thanks for the info . . . Do you have a link to a better crimping tool? I agree this one i have sucks, and my main problem is leverage . . . And I do agree, i solder when I can, but tying into existing wires I prefer the t-tap and quick connect so I don't have to shave or clip existing wires

Paul

[pkauf]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

the above post gives you your answer.....if you are using the INSULATED connectors you posted in the picture in the OP, then you should be using the part of the tool near the tip. if you are using non-insulated connectors, use the ones near the handles.

and YES to your last question above.

Yeah, i was just making sure that I understood what the INSUL meant - since it was abbreviated and in all caps, i thought it might be a BRAND, so i wanted to make sure that i was using the right one. I just didn't want to assume that INSUL was short for insulated . . .

Thanks again!!

Paul

[motorhead]

I like this one, but it's a little pricey.

Notice how the insulated part of the crimp in back where the leverage is the strongest.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KLE...&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

[Sir Nuke]

Well O too do like motorhead siggested, I typically use the ininsulated crimp, its much more sucure and if there us an issue I'll ise some shirnkwrap in it.

[Decibel JJ]

Originally Posted by motorhead

I like this one, but it's a little pricey.

Notice how the insulated part of the crimp in back where the leverage is the strongest.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KLE...&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

I've used that style for many years. There's similar ones by other brands like T&B.

Here's one at Home Depot for cheaper
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-10-in...310/202959147/

[pkauf]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

These are what I use use. I used the style you showed first for years, but these make a much tighter crimp. I sell them for $16.

I don't see them on your site... How do I order one, and what's the shipping?

[pkauf]

FYI, got my new crimper and it makes a huge difference. But i was still having problems getting it to really cinch down. So, I took some advice i read that said "Maybe your quick connects are the problem" and amazingly enough, that was my main problem (although, my old cheapo crimper didn't work well with the better connectors). So - lesson learned - 50 quick connectors online on ebay for 6.00 delivered sucks . . . or at least the ones I got did. I used the brand name ones at lowes, and they work great.

Paul