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Old 06-28-2009, 12:57 PM   #1
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Ok after purchasing a stop watch here is what we have.

Given:

89 degrees with 59% humidity

M sport mode with TC Off as well as Stalbilitrac Off:

5 runs between 5.73 and 5.97

The car shifts from 1st to 2nd between 5500 and 5800 rpm, WHY?

other shifts at 6000.

I came back and unplugged the thing right after the air filter box and the thing controlling the throttle position as well as the battery for over 15 minutes.

Put everything back together and went back out.

First 2 runs were at 6.4 and 6.2 after that the next 4 runs were in the high 5’s like before.

From first to 2nd still shifting too early 5500 to 5800 rpm.

This is still at least 1 second slower then it should be. HELP!

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Old 06-28-2009, 01:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpepka View Post
Ok after purchasing a stop watch here is what we have.

Given:

89 degrees with 59% humidity

M sport mode with TC Off as well as Stalbilitrac Off:

5 runs between 5.73 and 5.97

The car shifts from 1st to 2nd between 5500 and 5800 rpm, WHY?

other shifts at 6000.

I came back and unplugged the thing right after the air filter box and the thing controlling the throttle position as well as the battery for over 15 minutes.

Put everything back together and went back out.

First 2 runs were at 6.4 and 6.2 after that the next 4 runs were in the high 5’s like before.

From first to 2nd still shifting too early 5500 to 5800 rpm.

This is still at least 1 second slower then it should be. HELP!


leave stabilitrack on, it seems to be faster that way for some reason, how many miles are on the car?
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpepka View Post
Ok after purchasing a stop watch here is what we have.

Given:

89 degrees with 59% humidity

M sport mode with TC Off as well as Stalbilitrac Off:

5 runs between 5.73 and 5.97

The car shifts from 1st to 2nd between 5500 and 5800 rpm, WHY?

other shifts at 6000.


I came back and unplugged the thing right after the air filter box and the thing controlling the throttle position as well as the battery for over 15 minutes.

Put everything back together and went back out.

First 2 runs were at 6.4 and 6.2 after that the next 4 runs were in the high 5’s like before.

From first to 2nd still shifting too early 5500 to 5800 rpm.

This is still at least 1 second slower then it should be. HELP!

My Cobalt does this too only it's a manual. The reason on my cobalt is due to the tach being too slow to keep up with the actual rpms. In first gear, the gearing is faster and steeper than in any other gear and at WOT the tach is just a few hundred rpm off (behind). Not really anything to worry about in an auto. But in a manual, I could see this being a slight problem.

I'd say your motor is not quite broken in, something is wrong with your tune or your torque converter, or possibly your brakes are "dragging". This last option is also common on the Cobalts, the parking brake is adjusted wrong and "drags" or rubs while disengaged.

Those are my thoughts on your issue.
If it were me, I'd take the car to a dyno and have them watch your afr, timing, etc. Something could be wrong in the tune. Also, have your brakes looked at, especially the rear. Finally, an exhaust, intake, and a good tune will wake the car up regaurdless.

Good luck!
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:14 PM   #4
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leave stabilitrack on, it seems to be faster that way for some reason, how many miles are on the car?
1626 Miles
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by leviticus88 View Post
My Cobalt does this too only it's a manual. The reason on my cobalt is due to the tach being too slow to keep up with the actual rpms. In first gear, the gearing is faster and steeper than in any other gear and at WOT the tach is just a few hundred rpm off (behind). Not really anything to worry about in an auto. But in a manual, I could see this being a slight problem.

I'd say your motor is not quite broken in, something is wrong with your tune or your torque converter, or possibly your brakes are "dragging". This last option is also common on the Cobalts, the parking brake is adjusted wrong and "drags" or rubs while disengaged.

Those are my thoughts on your issue.
If it were me, I'd take the car to a dyno and have them watch your afr, timing, etc. Something could be wrong in the tune. Also, have your brakes looked at, especially the rear. Finally, an exhaust, intake, and a good tune will wake the car up regaurdless.

Good luck!
I was watching other video's and there cars were shifting at 6000 or higher?
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:17 PM   #6
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1626 Miles
hmmm

check out my vids if you havent already, the car seems faster without competition mode on

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28795
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:27 PM   #7
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hmmm

check out my vids if you havent already, the car seems faster without competition mode on

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28795
Yes it is faster without competition mode on. I had tc off and stalibitrac off as well as competition mode off.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
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hmmm

check out my vids if you havent already, the car seems faster without competition mode on

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28795
Wish my L99 would do that. :(

Best I got was 6.2 Secs. Bonnie is laughing at me cause I won't race her.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:37 PM   #9
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Not terrible but not good. High 5 sec 0-60mph in 100 degree heat index conditions isn't terrible by any means. Your car isn't going to run high 4s, 0-60mph in summer Florida conditons. Its just not going to happen.

Your car is also definately faster than Scott's 7.0 + sec 0-60 mph runs from his original video.

You might just need some tuning to get your car where it needs to be. It could be running pig rich and out of tune.

By the way my 5.2 sec 0-60mph run was done using Regular M mode (with TC off). That's all I did. I didn't put it in Competition mode.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:43 PM   #10
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I don't know how much money you are willing to through at this problem but I would strongly suggest that you buy some scaning software or scanning device to begin with. You will eliminate all of this guess work. Start logging your daily driving as well as timed runs. Also for the timed runs I use a G-Timer, not a stop watch, however it is no longer mfg. You could try the Gtech www.gtechpro.com. If you are intent on solving this on your own and not involving a tuning shop then this is the way to go. Start with the diagnosing equipment mentioned then fix with tuning software or take it to a tuner. I had a very similar problem with my Vette and I was able to not only correct it but get the car screaming through the gears.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGOS252382 View Post
Not terrible but not good. High 5 sec 0-60mph in 100 degree heat index conditions isn't terrible by any means. Your car isn't going to run high 4s, 0-60mph in summer Florida conditons. Its just not going to happen.

Your car is also definately faster than Scott's 7.0 + sec 0-60 mph runs from his original video.

You might just need some tuning to get your car where it needs to be. It could be running pig rich and out of tune.

By the way my 5.2 sec 0-60mph run was done using Regular M mode (with TC off). That's all I did. I didn't put it in Competition mode.
Ok, but why does it seem to affect our cars and not others? Bonnies Lexus got 5.5 and mine 6.2
Hell, the V6 gets that.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:56 PM   #12
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Ok, but why does it seem to affect our cars and not others? Bonnies Lexus got 5.5 and mine 6.2
Hell, the V6 gets that.
? There's definately an issue with some of the L99s. The L99's should be running low 5 sec 0-60mph in poor conditons and high 4 sec 0-60mph in good conditons.

These 6.0 + sec 0-60mph times shouldn't be happening. It seems there's some tuning issues going on. I don't think GM got the tuning right on some of the L99s.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:59 PM   #13
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? There's definately an issue with some of the L99s. The L99's should be running low 5 sec 0-60mph in poor conditons and high 4 sec 0-60mph in good conditons.

These 6.0 + sec 0-60mph times shouldn't be happening. It seems there's some tuning issues going on. I don' think GM got the tuning right on some of the L99s.
Don't all cars have the same "tuning" from factory? It's not like they run each on a dyno and tweak it. Something else is wrong here. Calling it a tuning issue is oversimplifying the problem.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:01 PM   #14
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Well, whatever the problem is here, I'm highly disapointed. Got my wife and her IS350 laughing at me. I don't even want to drive it right now.
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