My "Pre-Owned" Magnacharger install experience - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

2012LS3VERT · 03-01-2014, 09:23 PM

Just thought I'd share for the benefit of anyone else buying a used Maggie setup, as I've installed several new kits, but never a used one, so there are a few things I didn't notice when I was looking at the kit I bought.

First, I decided to go ahead and port the lower manifold. I've done it before on a new kit, but as I said, this is my first use of a used kit. this is what I found:

I guess the previous owner didn't have a catch can installed. You can see the little pool of oil in the spot where the intercooler "buttons" go that hold the intercooler up. So I went ahead and blasted the manifold before I started porting it. I ported one runner before deciding it was just too much to do all over again. Last time I did one, I did it all by hand. Took FOR-EV-ER. So I decided to rough out the ports with the mill.

Saved HOURS of time with the carbide burr. Milled it out in 45 minutes. One setup shown in the picture, and one from the inside of the manifold that leveled the port floor with the machined area under the intercooler. You can see some of the difference here in this inside shot, that shows the new o-rings required when reassembling the upper and lower manifolds.

I have the sizes required written down somewhere in the shop for anyone taking this on in the future.

Next on the list was pieces I had to come up with. I was so excited to get the blower I didn't go through the instructions enough times to catch everything that should have been in the kit that I didn't get. This was: The throttle body extension harness, the MAP extension harness, the coolant pump relay harness, and the 76mm tensioner pulley. The first three weren't too bad, I've done 12V wiring for a long time, both as a hobby and professionally, so a little soldier and heat shrink did the job for me, but for someone else, maybe not so easy. On the relay harness, I had the plug and leads for the pump, so I only had to scare up a 30A standard 12V relay that I had laying around, and a couple female spade terminals, and more heat shrink and soldier, along with some 1/4 wire loom. On the tensioner pulley, I've found that a 2003 silverado tensioner is the right size and everything, and only about $16 locally. It is required to get maximum belt wrap around the drive pulley. I'm not getting any belt slip even though I haven't put the smaller pulley on yet. However, it made installing the brand new belt almost impossible.

2012LS3VERT · 03-01-2014, 09:42 PM

Next on the list: some possibly time saving tips.

I was able to do the full install without draining my radiator, as I have a 2012, so the heater hoses aren't in the way of the blower. The instructions don't mention this. All I had to do was remove the line from the nipple at the radiator cap while I did some work in that area, I clamped it off with vise grips, as it goes to the steam line that will drain if not clamped off. I then leaned back the radiator to install the intercooler. I also did not remove the fans, as that would have required draining the radiator as well. I still had enough room to install the pin kit in the crank with my right angle cordless drill. I was able to scare up a pin kit relatively cheap, but I could have gotten it cheaper buy just using two dowel pins that I have in stock at work, A used kit without the pins, and a new crank bolt from the dealership. Would have saved about $30.
I also did not have the valley plate that magnacharger provides for the LS3 motors. I reused the LS3 plate by turning the PCV nipple downward and doing some minor grinding to the nipple boss on the plate. The real interference issue is the ribbing on the underside of the lower manifold. 3 minutes with the die grinder was better than removing and reinstalling the plate anyway.
On the oil pressure sending unit, there is a copper crush washer that is included to index the wiring clip it a certain direction to prevent interference. Of course, not included in my used kit. I was able to make one from teflon sheet and a gasket punch set at work. I think it was 3/32 thick, with a 9/16 center hole and 1" OD. I added a little extra thread tape and some RTV on the washer for good measure. No leaks here!
Lastly, on the issues of the convetible strut tower brace and radiator support brace: I did not have the spacers that Magnacharger includes for the radiator support brace. I had the bumper off for my install, so I was able to use some spacers I machined at work along with some longer bolts and washers. I also placed some weatherstripping tape between the heat exhanger and brace to make me feel better about the possibility of them contacting each other (they had clearance without the the tape, though):

Contrary to what I have read is some places (including the magnacharger instructions), the strut tower fits right back, no problems.

fldrummer · 03-01-2014, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Next on the list: some possibly time saving tips.

I was able to do the full install without draining my radiator, as I have a 2012, so the heater hoses aren't in the way of the blower. The instructions don't mention this. All I had to do was remove the line from the nipple at the radiator cap while I did some work in that area, I clamped it off with vise grips, as it goes to the steam line that will drain if not clamped off. I then leaned back the radiator to install the intercooler. I also did not remove the fans, as that would have required draining the radiator as well. I still had enough room to install the pin kit in the crank with my right angle cordless drill. I was able to scare up a pin kit relatively cheap, but I could have gotten it cheaper buy just using two dowel pins that I have in stock at work, A used kit without the pins, and a new crank bolt from the dealership. Would have saved about $30.
I also did not have the valley plate that magnacharger provides for the LS3 motors. I reused the LS3 plate by turning the PCV nipple downward and doing some minor grinding to the nipple boss on the plate. The real interference issue is the ribbing on the underside of the lower manifold. 3 minutes with the die grinder was better than removing and reinstalling the plate anyway.
On the oil pressure sending unit, there is a copper crush washer that is included to index the wiring clip it a certain direction to prevent interference. Of course, not included in my used kit. I was able to make one from teflon sheet and a gasket punch set at work. I think it was 3/32 thick, with a 9/16 center hole and 1" OD. I added a little extra thread tape and some RTV on the washer for good measure. No leaks here!
Lastly, on the issues of the convetible strut tower brace and radiator support brace: I did not have the spacers that Magnacharger includes for the radiator support brace. I had the bumper off for my install, so I was able to use some spacers I machined at work along with some longer bolts and washers. I also placed some weatherstripping tape between the heat exhanger and brace to make me feel better about the possibility of them contacting each other (they had clearance without the the tape, though):

Contrary to what I have read is some places (including the magnacharger instructions), the strut tower fits right back, no problems.

I didn't read your whole post very thoroughly, but there's something I think you didn't mention doing, that I would've recommended, and that's testing the heat exchanger (under the blower) for leaks. Unbeknownst to me, mine had a small leak that wasn't visible to the naked eye and I'm lucky I didn't blow the engine before my shop figured it out. Keep an eye on your Maggie's coolant reservoir and an ear out for any whirring/howling-wind noises--a clear sign of no coolant in your system.

jvoisel · 03-02-2014, 02:08 AM

Nice writeup man! I bought my kit used too and was missing pretty much everything you listed.

Do you have any more pics of the ported lower manifold? Thinking about pulling mine off and doing the same.

2012LS3VERT · 03-02-2014, 10:33 AM

I'm not sure if I have more pics, lll have to look. And I did check the intercooler for leaks, as the car I bought my kit off of was in a wreck, I should have mentioned it up top.

Bo White · 03-02-2014, 11:08 AM

So is it road worthy now?

2012LS3VERT · 03-02-2014, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo White

So is it road worthy now?

Oh yeah, I'll be headed up to T-town with the top down this afternoon!

Bo White · 03-02-2014, 04:00 PM

Well come on up!

UNRIVALED SS · 03-02-2014, 11:37 PM

I stopped by Dreamland's this weekend. Lot of good hangouts in Tuscaloosa .

Bo White · 03-03-2014, 03:40 AM

Next time through give me a holla

fastsspr · 09-21-2014, 10:57 PM

You have any data on 1/4 mile or HP improvement ?

2012LS3VERT · 09-21-2014, 11:11 PM

Sure. With the blower, and a couple other items, I made 545 HP/565 TQ at the wheels with 10.5 psi.

forklord · 09-21-2014, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Sure. With the blower, and a couple other items, I made 545 HP/565 TQ at the wheels with 10.5 psi.

seems awfully low for over 10 psi?

2012LS3VERT · 09-21-2014, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

seems awfully low for over 10 psi?

With stock manifolds.

03-01-2014, 09:23 PM	#1
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	My "Pre-Owned" Magnacharger install experience Just thought I'd share for the benefit of anyone else buying a used Maggie setup, as I've installed several new kits, but never a used one, so there are a few things I didn't notice when I was looking at the kit I bought. First, I decided to go ahead and port the lower manifold. I've done it before on a new kit, but as I said, this is my first use of a used kit. this is what I found: I guess the previous owner didn't have a catch can installed. You can see the little pool of oil in the spot where the intercooler "buttons" go that hold the intercooler up. So I went ahead and blasted the manifold before I started porting it. I ported one runner before deciding it was just too much to do all over again. Last time I did one, I did it all by hand. Took FOR-EV-ER. So I decided to rough out the ports with the mill. Saved HOURS of time with the carbide burr. Milled it out in 45 minutes. One setup shown in the picture, and one from the inside of the manifold that leveled the port floor with the machined area under the intercooler. You can see some of the difference here in this inside shot, that shows the new o-rings required when reassembling the upper and lower manifolds. I have the sizes required written down somewhere in the shop for anyone taking this on in the future. Next on the list was pieces I had to come up with. I was so excited to get the blower I didn't go through the instructions enough times to catch everything that should have been in the kit that I didn't get. This was: The throttle body extension harness, the MAP extension harness, the coolant pump relay harness, and the 76mm tensioner pulley. The first three weren't too bad, I've done 12V wiring for a long time, both as a hobby and professionally, so a little soldier and heat shrink did the job for me, but for someone else, maybe not so easy. On the relay harness, I had the plug and leads for the pump, so I only had to scare up a 30A standard 12V relay that I had laying around, and a couple female spade terminals, and more heat shrink and soldier, along with some 1/4 wire loom. On the tensioner pulley, I've found that a 2003 silverado tensioner is the right size and everything, and only about $16 locally. It is required to get maximum belt wrap around the drive pulley. I'm not getting any belt slip even though I haven't put the smaller pulley on yet. However, it made installing the brand new belt almost impossible.

03-01-2014, 09:42 PM	#2
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	Next on the list: some possibly time saving tips. I was able to do the full install without draining my radiator, as I have a 2012, so the heater hoses aren't in the way of the blower. The instructions don't mention this. All I had to do was remove the line from the nipple at the radiator cap while I did some work in that area, I clamped it off with vise grips, as it goes to the steam line that will drain if not clamped off. I then leaned back the radiator to install the intercooler. I also did not remove the fans, as that would have required draining the radiator as well. I still had enough room to install the pin kit in the crank with my right angle cordless drill. I was able to scare up a pin kit relatively cheap, but I could have gotten it cheaper buy just using two dowel pins that I have in stock at work, A used kit without the pins, and a new crank bolt from the dealership. Would have saved about $30. I also did not have the valley plate that magnacharger provides for the LS3 motors. I reused the LS3 plate by turning the PCV nipple downward and doing some minor grinding to the nipple boss on the plate. The real interference issue is the ribbing on the underside of the lower manifold. 3 minutes with the die grinder was better than removing and reinstalling the plate anyway. On the oil pressure sending unit, there is a copper crush washer that is included to index the wiring clip it a certain direction to prevent interference. Of course, not included in my used kit. I was able to make one from teflon sheet and a gasket punch set at work. I think it was 3/32 thick, with a 9/16 center hole and 1" OD. I added a little extra thread tape and some RTV on the washer for good measure. No leaks here! Lastly, on the issues of the convetible strut tower brace and radiator support brace: I did not have the spacers that Magnacharger includes for the radiator support brace. I had the bumper off for my install, so I was able to use some spacers I machined at work along with some longer bolts and washers. I also placed some weatherstripping tape between the heat exhanger and brace to make me feel better about the possibility of them contacting each other (they had clearance without the the tape, though): Contrary to what I have read is some places (including the magnacharger instructions), the strut tower fits right back, no problems. Last edited by 2012LS3VERT; 03-01-2014 at 09:52 PM.

03-02-2014, 02:08 AM	#4
jvoisel Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 436	Nice writeup man! I bought my kit used too and was missing pretty much everything you listed. Do you have any more pics of the ported lower manifold? Thinking about pulling mine off and doing the same. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS

03-02-2014, 11:08 AM	#6
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,090	So is it road worthy now? __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter, stage 4 cam and Wilkes 11° 65cc heads Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

03-02-2014, 04:00 PM	#8
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,090	Well come on up! __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter, stage 4 cam and Wilkes 11° 65cc heads Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

03-02-2014, 10:33 AM	#5
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	I'm not sure if I have more pics, lll have to look. And I did check the intercooler for leaks, as the car I bought my kit off of was in a wreck, I should have mentioned it up top.

03-02-2014, 11:37 PM	#9
UNRIVALED SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 705 View My Garage	I stopped by Dreamland's this weekend. Lot of good hangouts in Tuscaloosa .

03-03-2014, 03:40 AM	#10
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,090	Next time through give me a holla __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter, stage 4 cam and Wilkes 11° 65cc heads Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

09-21-2014, 10:57 PM	#11
fastsspr Drives: Red SS Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: P R Posts: 21	You have any data on 1/4 mile or HP improvement ?

09-21-2014, 11:11 PM	#12
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	Sure. With the blower, and a couple other items, I made 545 HP/565 TQ at the wheels with 10.5 psi.