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Old 07-31-2009, 04:12 PM   #1
MJ
 
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Harmonic balancer removal w/o impact wrench

Anyone remove the harmonic balancer without impact tools? I thought it would be fairly easy; shift into reverse, pull e-brake, use 3/4" drive 3' breaker bar and pull like mad. Bolt won't break loose. Problem is how do you deal with the recoil caused by the engine compression? (that is, after pulling breaker bar cc by 90 degrees, the hb wants to go back to the original position). If there's a way around it, I'd prefer to not remove the plugs.
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Old 07-31-2009, 04:15 PM   #2
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umm why are you doing this? lol
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Old 07-31-2009, 04:53 PM   #3
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you are just talkin about the bolt? correct?

I pinned a big ass pry bar through a hole in the balancer and toward the a/c compressor, on the engine.. (forget exactly what it layed against) and then used the breaker bar and a 4 ft. pipe.. lol.. I thought something was breaking... lol.. I don't remember my 02's being that hard.
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Old 07-31-2009, 06:26 PM   #4
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I'm trying to visualize that... thanks for the idea. Earlier I was thinking of using a large pipe wrench to grip the inner & outer edge of the pulley, then have the handle press against the concrete floor.... but that would burr up the pulley... and don't know if the wrench jaw would be able to handle the sideways stress. Did you find breaking the bolt loose to be the bigest pain in the arsh?
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:15 PM   #5
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put the car in 5th.

also remember to replace the bolt when you put everything back together. I imagine you are doing an underdrive pulley swap.


use the stock bolt to torque the pulley on initially. Once it is threaded, tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, remove the stock bolt and replace it with the new crank bolt. You will tighten the new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additonal 220 degrees
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:19 PM   #6
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I normally have someone lock the flywheel in place with a screwdriver. I'm not sure if newer cars have that flywheel opening anymore.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:21 PM   #7
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Impact wrench with some balls=IR244 BAD ASS 1/2 IMPACT
I sell and service them
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:39 PM   #8
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the correct way is to drop the starter and bolt on the tool to hold the flywheel, check e-bay i have seen them there cheap,, i have my own gm gen 3 engine tool kit and it is part of the whole kit

make sure to use a new bolt every time to loosen it and do not use the bolt to pull the balancer back on, you will strip the crank threads

torque for re-install:

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - First Pass

110 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Second Pass
Loosen 360 degrees

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Third Pass

37 lb ft

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Final Pass
230 degrees (not lb ft)
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Old 08-01-2009, 02:21 PM   #9
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Source of 1st pass and 2nd pass torque specs?

What's the source of your 1st pass and 2nd pass torque specs? Vendor quoted me 1st pass 37 ft / lbs. Final pass 140 degrees. New tty bolt is to be used as well.

Anyone with insider access to online shop manual care to look it up? I tried to order shop manual but Helm tells me it isn't available yet.

Last edited by MJ; 08-04-2009 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 08-01-2009, 02:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ View Post
What's the source of your 1st pass and 2nd pass torque specs? Texas Speed quoted me 1st pass 37 ft / lbs. Final pass 140 degrees. New tty bolt is to be used as well.

Anyone with insider access to online shop manual care to look it up? I tried to order shop manual but Helm tells me it isn't available yet.

my numbers are copy and paste from the gm online service manual (SI),, the spec they gave you is for the older ls engines and truck 4.8,5.3,6.0 engines


2009 and newer ls3/l99 engines use the 230* final torque
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:03 AM   #11
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theres always the place the breaker bar tightly against the floor and tap the ignition method but im partial to impacts myself
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:40 AM   #12
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no way an impact would of taken mine off... I am 240lbs, not a *****, and used a 4 ft pipe on my breaker bar to loosen it... a guess would be WAY more than 700ft lbs of torque to loosen it..
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:48 AM   #13
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camaro1,
Compared to the torque specs for the older engines, looks like there's a bolt pre-stretching procedure (110 ft/lb, then relax) for the LS3 prior to the 37 ft/lb, then 230* final specs. Do I have that right?

Regarding hb install...
Vendor advised me to use original bolt to pull on hb.... torque to 240 ft/lb to be sure it's seated. Heard that heating hb in oven for 1/2 hr at ~300 degrees would expand the id enough so it would press on easier. Since I don't want any chance of F'ing up the threads, I probably should get an installer, right? (btw - thanks for spending the time to straighten me out!)

Last edited by MJ; 08-02-2009 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 08-02-2009, 11:43 AM   #14
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the threads are so deep in the crank my installer wouldn't work. So I gently tapped it on with my plastic dad blow around in a circle until I could catch 3-4 threads of the bolt an slowly tightened it. Went on smooth an safe
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