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Old 08-08-2014, 03:17 AM   #1
damian559

 
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Rough break-in?

Who actually took it easy their first 1500 miles? I bought the car to be driven how it's suppose to. I'm already at 1100 miles and love the car. I already hit the speed limiter last weekend. I should have my CAI, TB, and LT headers very soon, then the cam will be by the end of the year.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:33 AM   #2
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Some do some don't.

I took it kinda but not really easy for 500 then it was game on. 47,000 miles now and runs perfect. 5 road course days too.
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:18 AM   #3
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The overwhelming body of evidence suggests that it doesn't matter how you break it in, as long as you don't get on the highway and drive a constant 55 mph for 1500 miles. My personal method focuses more on constant accel/decel/accel/decel. With the LS3, the recommended 4000 rpm limit provides plenty of room to play on the street. I gradually increase that as the miles build. The volume of material in your catch can will tell you the story of your ring seating success. I only had an ounce after 2200 miles. Now with 4000 miles and a full suite of boltons, I find it difficult to find places to exercise it without drawing the attention of Johnny Law (who has already struck once).
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:08 AM   #4
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I kept it below 4K RPM for the first 1500 miles or so, changed oil at 3K miles, and have had zero problems. We are now just over 18K miles, and no issues. I have used about the same approach on the '93 Z/28 and the '01 WS6. The Z/28 was retired after 9 years and about 190K miles. At about 160K miles, we developed the LT1 nitrous plate system that we sold on that car. Never an engine issue. The WS6 had over 200K when we got rid of it and the only issues was a leak between the cooling and the oiling system that was pushing oil into the cooling system. Engine ran great, never got hot, and the guy that bought it cammed it and corrected the leak and the problem was solved.
I am not saying that these cars lasted this long because of the break-in period, nor am I saying that if they had been driven hard right away there would have been issues. I guess I subscribe to the don't change it if its working plan.
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:10 PM   #5
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What break in???

Search as there's a zillion threads covering this, there's just as many opinions regarding break-in of a factory engine or just follow what your owners manual recommends.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:29 AM   #6
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I put 100 miles on mine before the first track day. I figure might as well train it to go fast. Now I have 1500 miles with 4 track days.
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:54 PM   #7
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Drove it like I stole it from day 1. I'm at 7500 miles and she feels strong.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:47 PM   #8
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Breaking an engine in gently doesn't always help, but it never hurts. If there are some particularly tight spots in your engine (piston to cylinder, rod or crank bearings, etc.) it sure doesn't hurt to match those parts together gently under light load. If all specifications are within tolerance, it probably doesn't do much good to break an engine in gently.

Part of the enjoyment I get from a new vehicle is the break in procedure. I enjoy varying RPM's and speed, and slowly increasing both as the engine parts become matched.

That being said, mine was on the track at 155 mph just prior to 3,000 miles. So I'm not overly gentle with it!
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:03 PM   #9
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Damn, I thought I was the only one that drove it hard since day one!!!
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:35 PM   #10
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"Break-in" threads are reminicent of the "which brand and type of oil to use" threads.

Same answer ends up being agreed upon, after numerous debates, arguments, sandbox fights, even the occassional mod swooping in from the forum heavens, and editing or completely deleting threads.

Answer:
Pick your poison. Owners manual, or what you deem to be an educated decision for your application.

Or as some may call it, part of living on the bleeding edge.
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:44 PM   #11
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These motors Aren't single cylinder 2 strokes like a dirtbike or Rc car with a pressure fit at the top of the stroke that needs a beak in. They're v8's, the tolerances are set at the factory and built accordingly. Now, not to say a few parts might be tight here or there at first, but they'll loosen up or clearance fit themselves within the first few miles. (Bearings and rings) That's why the first oil change usually has some bearig material etc in it. Plus these motors are test run at the factory.
The break in procedures are there for the lawyers because some one probly grenaded a motor right off the lot.... Lol
I say run it hard, let it eat. It's not a dirtbike, break it in how it's gonna be driven!
You've got a warranty...
*these are my opinions, don't like em? Don't care... Lol and I'm not responsible for grenaded engines fresh off the lot!
And also, don't take me for some 'GM can do no wrong cheerleader'... These ls3's are good, but could be better. I get just as frustrated with my baby as y'all do yours.
Have a good one!
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke Pilot View Post
These motors Aren't single cylinder 2 strokes like a dirtbike or Rc car with a pressure fit at the top of the stroke that needs a beak in.
Well, not exactly....

"Interestingly, the pistons are installed with -2 micron (-.00008-in or negative eight hundred-thousandths of an inch) piston-to-bore "clearance"–a slight interference fit. During break-in, some of the coating wears away, leaving a nominal piston-to-bore clearance. "

http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/index.htm

Maybe there's something to these manufacturer's recommendations.
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:22 PM   #13
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Now you're literally just splitting hairs... Lol 8hundred thousandths of an inch...
That will be worn away with one strong warm up cycle. Like I said, everything will loosen up and that's why you get bearing/ring material in the first oil change.

But good catch! I'd forgotten about the interference fit on LS motors. The old saying gotta go along to get along is very fitting to the parts in these motors, as seen by the unusual sensitivity to cam swaps...
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indydriver View Post
Well, not exactly....

"Interestingly, the pistons are installed with -2 micron (-.00008-in or negative eight hundred-thousandths of an inch) piston-to-bore "clearance"–a slight interference fit. During break-in, some of the coating wears away, leaving a nominal piston-to-bore clearance. "

http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/index.htm

Maybe there's something to these manufacturer's recommendations.
nice link, nice find, thank you!
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