Help with brake duct routing - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

NotYetLegend · 09-25-2014, 11:18 AM

Hi guys, I am on my third set of ducting trying to get my Quantum setup up and running. I did the ducts in the front air damn (like most others) and went with the "through the sway bar, around the strut, and back around to the Quantumn duct" routing (as opposed to the "straight to the duct via the radius arm" technique). Here is a picture of mine:

The stainless exhaust clamp you see there is just barely snugged down and was to prevent the radius arm mounting bracket from eating into the ducts. Turns out it doesn't matter however since the sway bar end link bolt ate the duct the second I dropped the car off the jacks. Don't have a picture of the newest disaster but here's the previous:

You can see I put a small piece of tubing on the spare threads sticking out from the sway bar end link foolishly thinking this would help in some way... it did not.

So what I am hoping to find is:

1) Some advice on how exactly people are making the straight-to-duct routing work (I tried and it appears impossible to me but perhaps if I could load the suspension I could see that there is a way?). Here is the thread I used as a guide (post #27: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=353681&page=2)

2) A recommendation on aftermarket front end links that don't have tons of thread sticking out the inside of the mounting hole. Here is the initial JDP posting showing the same routing I have been trying to use (note that the sway bar end links are flush on the insides): http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313413

Thanks.

woodside783 · 09-25-2014, 04:09 PM

Was going to do this during the winter. Let me know how this works out

NotYetLegend · 09-26-2014, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodside783

Was going to do this during the winter. Let me know how this works out

Will do! I hope I get it sorted out soon, been one of the more difficult mods I've done so far. I have accepted the fact that the duct hose will always be a "wear" item but it should be possible to at least make them last a few months at a time. I do think the routing I have currently would work if I could cut off the end link bolt that sticks out, but you can't because that is actually how you screw/unscrew the bolt. I planned on upgrading the endlinks anyways and the BMR site does mention that the bolt works a little bit different than OEM on theirs, so hopefully that resolves the issue. Trying to find pics of their end links installed to verify.

X25 · 09-26-2014, 03:59 AM

My routing still works like a champ. There is a very minor rub at full lock, but I already reinforced that section with duct tape in case I forget about the ducting and pull a shenanigan at a parking lot.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376822

The key is adding a few guiding zip ties along the control arm, so you control where the ducting collapse or expand during steering. Without those, it might expand all the way from one section, causing severe rub or tear. However, with the zip ties each closely guiding 1/3 length of the ducting, all the sections will have to expand. I know, it looks too simple to work, but that's also how I made it work on my Miata and Corvette back when I installed brake ducting kits.

I have recently sold my 20" 1LE wheels, and I'm switching to 19"x11" wheels all around with 305/30/19. If this causes too much rub or tear, I might need to improvise and try the longer route that I didn't like.

By the way, it's OK if it pops or tears. The fix is very very easy; saw it with small zip ties!

Synner · 09-26-2014, 04:32 AM

Did mine under the the ends of the radiator on the inside of the frame rail. Its very close to the accessory drives so you zip tie them back. Then the outlet will never contact tire and stays out of the suspension completely.
Only pic I have but you can see its nowhere near the suspension.

SPCBA · 09-26-2014, 11:22 PM

Cms and I used some i think 4 inch pvc and went straight from the fog light while using the heat shield/coupler for the tubing. I think we had a sword fight with the 90% of the tubing that comes with the coupler dealy.

No issues with mine with some... Abuse. Random landscaping and the like. No issues with the cms 1le either.
Suspension must have the full load on it and check the lock to lock. Not sure why you would have to change anything else to accomplish this. I have a **** ton of extra crap all routing around extra crap and had no issues.

Lots of guys with this mod in the road course section.

rockrau · 09-28-2014, 01:37 PM

I personally, would like for someone to post detailed pictures of their successful 3" duct routing from the lower grill area to the Quantum spindle plates. Please...?

NotYetLegend · 09-29-2014, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockrau

I personally, would like for someone to post detailed pictures of their successful 3" duct routing from the lower grill area to the Quantum spindle plates. Please...?

There actually are a lot of pictures available in other threads as well as one in the DIY section that was posted recently, I recommend using google's search to find them though, the forum search is useless in comparison.

My issue from the sound of it is just that I have no way of getting under my car while I have the suspension loaded. So i have been doing all the zip tie guides and hose routing w the suspension uncompressed. I try to visualize the geometry once compression takes place but obviously I'm not making it happen... So now to figure out how in the world to get up under there while I have the car on the ground? I am friendly with the alignment shop down the street, maybe they'll let me buy an hour of rack time to get under there w some new hose and sort it out. Still think I NEED new sway bar endlinks before this will work properly.

Synner · 09-30-2014, 07:00 AM

You don't need to have the suspension loaded to check fitment if you don't route it through the suspension as I suggested.

NotYetLegend · 09-30-2014, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

You don't need to have the suspension loaded to check fitment if you don't route it through the suspension as I suggested.

Very true but I'm not sure how to get the hose on the other side of the frame rail w/o it hanging down really low and likely hitting the ground? Any pictures you can share? It is certainly a good solution as even if you get the routing right the way I am trying to, it causes so much articulation of the hose that it's never going to last more than a few months at a time... your technique should be closer to "permanent".

Synner · 09-30-2014, 04:47 PM

On the wrong side of the planet to take more pics but it doesn't hang too low anywhere.

NotYetLegend · 10-01-2014, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

On the wrong side of the planet to take more pics but it doesn't hang too low anywhere.

Sounds fun! I'll have to take a closer look next week when I have the car back up on jacks for a while. Thanks for the info.

EarlyApex · 10-07-2014, 11:59 AM

Here's how I did my routing. This has worked through 3 track days and several months of street driving. So far, so good.

rockrau · 10-07-2014, 07:15 PM

09-25-2014, 11:18 AM	#1
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	Help with brake duct routing Hi guys, I am on my third set of ducting trying to get my Quantum setup up and running. I did the ducts in the front air damn (like most others) and went with the "through the sway bar, around the strut, and back around to the Quantumn duct" routing (as opposed to the "straight to the duct via the radius arm" technique). Here is a picture of mine: The stainless exhaust clamp you see there is just barely snugged down and was to prevent the radius arm mounting bracket from eating into the ducts. Turns out it doesn't matter however since the sway bar end link bolt ate the duct the second I dropped the car off the jacks. Don't have a picture of the newest disaster but here's the previous: You can see I put a small piece of tubing on the spare threads sticking out from the sway bar end link foolishly thinking this would help in some way... it did not. So what I am hoping to find is: 1) Some advice on how exactly people are making the straight-to-duct routing work (I tried and it appears impossible to me but perhaps if I could load the suspension I could see that there is a way?). Here is the thread I used as a guide (post #27: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=353681&page=2) 2) A recommendation on aftermarket front end links that don't have tons of thread sticking out the inside of the mounting hole. Here is the initial JDP posting showing the same routing I have been trying to use (note that the sway bar end links are flush on the insides): http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313413 Thanks. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

09-26-2014, 03:59 AM	#4
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	My routing still works like a champ. There is a very minor rub at full lock, but I already reinforced that section with duct tape in case I forget about the ducting and pull a shenanigan at a parking lot. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376822 The key is adding a few guiding zip ties along the control arm, so you control where the ducting collapse or expand during steering. Without those, it might expand all the way from one section, causing severe rub or tear. However, with the zip ties each closely guiding 1/3 length of the ducting, all the sections will have to expand. I know, it looks too simple to work, but that's also how I made it work on my Miata and Corvette back when I installed brake ducting kits. I have recently sold my 20" 1LE wheels, and I'm switching to 19"x11" wheels all around with 305/30/19. If this causes too much rub or tear, I might need to improvise and try the longer route that I didn't like. By the way, it's OK if it pops or tears. The fix is very very easy; saw it with small zip ties! __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD

09-26-2014, 11:22 PM	#6
SPCBA Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: a line somwhere Posts: 4,206 View My Garage	Cms and I used some i think 4 inch pvc and went straight from the fog light while using the heat shield/coupler for the tubing. I think we had a sword fight with the 90% of the tubing that comes with the coupler dealy. No issues with mine with some... Abuse. Random landscaping and the like. No issues with the cms 1le either. Suspension must have the full load on it and check the lock to lock. Not sure why you would have to change anything else to accomplish this. I have a **** ton of extra crap all routing around extra crap and had no issues. Lots of guys with this mod in the road course section. __________________ the power by www.cunningham-motorsports.com the brakes by www.RacingBrake.com

09-28-2014, 01:37 PM	#7
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 541	I personally, would like for someone to post detailed pictures of their successful 3" duct routing from the lower grill area to the Quantum spindle plates. Please...? __________________ Pedders Pace Car Kit with ZL1 sway bar conversion & camber bolt kit.Lowered 1.5". 1LE tires & wheels. CAI air intake. Anvil CF rear spoiler.MGW shifter. 1 7/8" Kooks LT headers & HF cats.V-Max ported TB. Tuned.

10-07-2014, 11:59 AM	#13
EarlyApex Drives: 2013 IOM 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Damascus Or Posts: 403	Here's how I did my routing. This has worked through 3 track days and several months of street driving. So far, so good. Attached Images __________________

09-25-2014, 04:09 PM	#2
woodside783 Casey Woodside Drives: a very fun car Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Tn Posts: 1,906	Was going to do this during the winter. Let me know how this works out __________________ Instagram @caseywoodside http://youtu.be/CSc9aPh_X_w

09-26-2014, 04:32 AM	#5
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	Did mine under the the ends of the radiator on the inside of the frame rail. Its very close to the accessory drives so you zip tie them back. Then the outlet will never contact tire and stays out of the suspension completely. Only pic I have but you can see its nowhere near the suspension.

09-30-2014, 07:00 AM	#9
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	You don't need to have the suspension loaded to check fitment if you don't route it through the suspension as I suggested.

09-30-2014, 04:47 PM	#11
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	On the wrong side of the planet to take more pics but it doesn't hang too low anywhere.

10-07-2014, 07:15 PM	#14
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 541	__________________ Pedders Pace Car Kit with ZL1 sway bar conversion & camber bolt kit.Lowered 1.5". 1LE tires & wheels. CAI air intake. Anvil CF rear spoiler.MGW shifter. 1 7/8" Kooks LT headers & HF cats.V-Max ported TB. Tuned.