YSi oil lines & oil cooler conversion - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

RaiderSS · 11-08-2014, 08:14 AM

For any one running a YSi how are you installing the oil supply and return?

Do I NEED to tap the oil pan for the return? The instructions state using oil pump aux supply feed port and tapping the top of the oil pan for gravity return....

Could I use this cooler conversion as a feed/return instead of deleting oil cooler like most have?

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...E#.VF3a1tq9KK1

Shouldn't it function better In theory because it's pumped instead of gravity return or would the blower overheat the oil where it should be getting cooled during the hot GA summers? Would blower internals not like the pressurized supply return?

Also could I put an inline hi flow oil filter to protect the motor and blower from each other in the event of oil contaminants?

DarkCry956 · 11-08-2014, 09:50 AM

That adapter goes where the oil cooler goes. That being said you'd have to eliminate the oil cooler so it could pass though the blower. The blower creates a lot of heat meaning you'll end up with a oil heater.
That adapter is to run an aftermarket oil cooler and does have a port for oil feed but you still need to tap the oil pan for return. You also have to plug the engine and get rid of the T on the radiator hose that goes the the factory cooler

Andy-AMSOIL · 11-08-2014, 11:33 AM

Looking forward to results

Unreal · 11-08-2014, 12:07 PM

No, you cannot use that.

You can use the side port on the motor under the alternator, or get an adapter from the oil pressure sender. Most kits use the side port. Yes you need to drill/tap the pan, or find a way to gravity return the oil back. Other option which would be silly is to drain to a sump then use a pump to pump it back.

RaiderSS · 11-08-2014, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unreal

No, you cannot use that.

You can use the side port on the motor under the alternator, or get an adapter from the oil pressure sender. Most kits use the side port. Yes you need to drill/tap the pan, or find a way to gravity return the oil back. Other option which would be silly is to drain to a sump then use a pump to pump it back.

Thanks guys! Was hoping to avoid metal shavings from drill & tap in the oil pan but it's not worth pulling the engine just for that alone. (Wish I had a stroker kit lol) Tapped return it is

What about a oil filter to protect the blower/motor from each other or is there nothing out there that will provide filtration and flow for cold oil?

Now Im wondering do I need to add a better remote oil cooler like the adapter was designed for because of the possibility of high heat from blower circulation?

Unreal · 11-08-2014, 12:48 PM

Blower has a filter on the inlet. You can run a filter on the feed, people do it with turbos all the time. As for a filter on the return, not really. It should go to the pan then to the oil filter.

RaiderSS · 11-08-2014, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unreal

Blower has a filter on the inlet. You can run a filter on the feed, people do it with turbos all the time. As for a filter on the return, not really. It should go to the pan then to the oil filter.

Do you think it warrants an aftermarket cooler for the head unit heat?

Graycyberman · 11-08-2014, 01:26 PM

I am in the process of going from v-3 head unit to ysi. Any advice on drilling side of pan. Have it marked 2.5 inch back from center of front pan bolt. Anything that will help me out.

Unreal · 11-08-2014, 01:40 PM

Weld a fitting on IMO.

No need for a cooler for blower heat, if you are having oil temp issues, then yes.

RaiderSS · 11-17-2014, 12:25 PM

Would you use a oil scavenge pump setup like a turbo would to send oil back up to the valve covers? I searched around and found race applications where the Vortech's direct drive places the blower at or below the pan and the return oil is scavenged and pumped to the oil fill....

As I write i am thinking that is an added failure point but just wonder if anyone has tried it....

I am at the tap the pan part of the install and reaching the designated location on the L99 has some challenges.

RaiderSS · 11-17-2014, 12:32 PM

Not exactly drill accessible....
And the metal looks to think to punch

Unreal · 11-17-2014, 12:43 PM

Drop the pan

SuperchargedStealth · 11-17-2014, 07:19 PM

Dropping the oil pan would be the best way to approach it, but that alone is a task in itself. I am putting my engine back together currently because I had to replace a couple pistons, and I had no choice but to drop the oil pan. To do that, I dropped the entire front sub-frame. However, doing that made everything much more accessible. I am also doing on the ground, so I do know how much more difficult it can be. If you decide to go that route, there are 4 bolts on each side, varying in different sizes. Another way to approach it is by cutting out the cross-member that keeps the pan from dropping and welding it back in. Also keep in mind that you want a clean pan. You're drilling through it, so it's guaranteed that you'll have metal shaving in there. You can't really flush it out because there's a baffle in the middle of the pan that allows the pick-up tube to drop into. It will also give you an opportunity to clean out any sludge too.

Graycyberman · 11-17-2014, 07:22 PM

I am at the same point in my install. I am going to get a 90 deg. close quarters drill from harbor freight. I am hoping it will work.

11-08-2014, 08:14 AM	#1
RaiderSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2 DeadBLK Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 481	YSi oil lines & oil cooler conversion For any one running a YSi how are you installing the oil supply and return? Do I NEED to tap the oil pan for the return? The instructions state using oil pump aux supply feed port and tapping the top of the oil pan for gravity return.... Could I use this cooler conversion as a feed/return instead of deleting oil cooler like most have? http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...E#.VF3a1tq9KK1 Shouldn't it function better In theory because it's pumped instead of gravity return or would the blower overheat the oil where it should be getting cooled during the hot GA summers? Would blower internals not like the pressurized supply return? Also could I put an inline hi flow oil filter to protect the motor and blower from each other in the event of oil contaminants? Attached Images __________________ RaiderSS - COTW 6/6/11 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1312764428 Last edited by RaiderSS; 11-08-2014 at 08:25 AM.

11-08-2014, 12:07 PM	#4
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	No, you cannot use that. You can use the side port on the motor under the alternator, or get an adapter from the oil pressure sender. Most kits use the side port. Yes you need to drill/tap the pan, or find a way to gravity return the oil back. Other option which would be silly is to drain to a sump then use a pump to pump it back. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

11-08-2014, 12:48 PM	#6
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	Blower has a filter on the inlet. You can run a filter on the feed, people do it with turbos all the time. As for a filter on the return, not really. It should go to the pan then to the oil filter. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

11-08-2014, 01:40 PM	#9
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	Weld a fitting on IMO. No need for a cooler for blower heat, if you are having oil temp issues, then yes. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

11-17-2014, 12:25 PM	#10
RaiderSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2 DeadBLK Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 481	Would you use a oil scavenge pump setup like a turbo would to send oil back up to the valve covers? I searched around and found race applications where the Vortech's direct drive places the blower at or below the pan and the return oil is scavenged and pumped to the oil fill.... As I write i am thinking that is an added failure point but just wonder if anyone has tried it.... I am at the tap the pan part of the install and reaching the designated location on the L99 has some challenges. Attached Images __________________ RaiderSS - COTW 6/6/11 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1312764428

11-08-2014, 09:50 AM	#2
DarkCry956 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Texas RGV Posts: 794	That adapter goes where the oil cooler goes. That being said you'd have to eliminate the oil cooler so it could pass though the blower. The blower creates a lot of heat meaning you'll end up with a oil heater. That adapter is to run an aftermarket oil cooler and does have a port for oil feed but you still need to tap the oil pan for return. You also have to plug the engine and get rid of the T on the radiator hose that goes the the factory cooler

11-08-2014, 11:33 AM	#3
Andy-AMSOIL Drives: bicycle Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Digging for oil Posts: 375	Looking forward to results

11-08-2014, 01:26 PM	#8
Graycyberman Drives: 2011ss/rs m6 camaro Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: western maryland Posts: 87	I am in the process of going from v-3 head unit to ysi. Any advice on drilling side of pan. Have it marked 2.5 inch back from center of front pan bolt. Anything that will help me out.

11-17-2014, 12:32 PM	#11
RaiderSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2 DeadBLK Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 481	Not exactly drill accessible.... And the metal looks to think to punch Attached Images __________________ RaiderSS - COTW 6/6/11 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1312764428

11-17-2014, 12:43 PM	#12
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	Drop the pan __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

11-17-2014, 07:19 PM	#13
SuperchargedStealth Drives: '11 Camaro Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2014 Location: NJ Posts: 481	Dropping the oil pan would be the best way to approach it, but that alone is a task in itself. I am putting my engine back together currently because I had to replace a couple pistons, and I had no choice but to drop the oil pan. To do that, I dropped the entire front sub-frame. However, doing that made everything much more accessible. I am also doing on the ground, so I do know how much more difficult it can be. If you decide to go that route, there are 4 bolts on each side, varying in different sizes. Another way to approach it is by cutting out the cross-member that keeps the pan from dropping and welding it back in. Also keep in mind that you want a clean pan. You're drilling through it, so it's guaranteed that you'll have metal shaving in there. You can't really flush it out because there's a baffle in the middle of the pan that allows the pick-up tube to drop into. It will also give you an opportunity to clean out any sludge too. __________________ 2011 Triple Black SS convertible, LSX 427, PRC 260cc heads, Callies Ultra Billet Rods, Wiseco -20 cc piston, Callies Dragon Slayer crank, Strange Dana 60 rear w/3.73 gear ratio and driveshaft, Pfadt coilovers, Pfadt sway bars, Pfadt trailing arms, Pfadt tie rods, Pfadt subframe bushings, Vortech YSi with wastegate and twin BOV, Haltech ECU, Mantic 9000 Twin Clutch, ALKY control meth system with dual nozzle, Squash twin fuel pumps, ACS T3 ports, VIS Terminator Hood, Seibon ZL style lip.

11-17-2014, 07:22 PM	#14
Graycyberman Drives: 2011ss/rs m6 camaro Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: western maryland Posts: 87	I am at the same point in my install. I am going to get a 90 deg. close quarters drill from harbor freight. I am hoping it will work.