Header Install On 2010 2SS

[MickGIS]

I installed the Stainless Power Headers at DIY Auto Repair here in Colorado, real nice folks. DIY rents bays with a lift and tools so I was in a heated garage while outside here it was in the single digits. Well I am a DIYer so it only took TWICE as long as I planned, I'll post photos in a bit.

I used new gaskets with the Stainless provided silicon seal and kept the stock plugs, the tips on those things look really weird.

Driver's side install was much easier then the accursed passenger side, so little room to work over there. And wouldn't you know it while removing the stock exhaust manifold I had a seized bolt in front of #2, that bolt is really hard to get to. And it was like it was welded in place. I don't think it's a coincidence that I also have a bit of a problem with a leak above cylinder #2, once the weather warms up a bit I will try to torque down the header just a bit more to stop the leak. I won't be driving the Camaro on these snow covered streets but I did have to drive it home from the shop, did I do much damage?

[Juiced1]

If you cross threaded the bolt you might have done some damage. I would try and remove it and check to make sure. A dab of loctite helps on the header bolts too, sometimes they can come lose without it. The passenger side is no breeze but go work on a 4th gen Fbody for a little bit. You'll feel like you can jump into the engine bay on your 2010 after that.

[MickGIS]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

If you cross threaded the bolt you might have done some damage...

Hey Juiced1,
I hear you, there is always a tighter engine bay to work on or a roomer one, I had an old Valiant with a straight 6 and I could set up camp in there.
On my Gen5 that bolt above #2 that was so hard to get out was the factory bolt, I had a heck of a time getting it out but the new bolt supplied by Stainless seemed to go in with no problem, I surmise that since that bolt was so hard to get to that maybe a bit more torque on the new bolt might seal the deal.

[Juiced1]

You never want to over torque them because it is an aluminum head. They strip pretty easy. I believe the correct procedure is to torque them to 11lb/ft on the first pass and hit them again at 18 starting inside and working out/alternating of coarse. If you have a leak you might want to just loosen them all and make sure the gasket is lined up okay and try it again.

[MickGIS]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

You never want to over torque them because it is an aluminum head. They strip pretty easy. I believe the correct procedure is to torque them to 11lb/ft on the first pass and hit them again at 18 starting inside and working out/alternating of coarse. If you have a leak you might want to just loosen them all and make sure the gasket is lined up okay and try it again.

Sweet, thanks for the tip.

[Jason 98 TA]

Don't worry to much if the bolt threads are damaged in the head we can helicoil it for ya while we do cnc porting

[NE Yellow Jacket]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

You never want to over torque them because it is an aluminum head. They strip pretty easy. I believe the correct procedure is to torque them to 11lb/ft on the first pass and hit them again at 18 starting inside and working out/alternating of coarse. If you have a leak you might want to just loosen them all and make sure the gasket is lined up okay and try it again.

I just put a set of BBK's on mine, and doing a progressive torque is the key to eliminating leaks and getting an even seal across the whole mating surface. Make sure the neighboring bolts aren't over torqued either; that can create a leak too.

[MickGIS]

Originally Posted by NE Yellow Jacket

I just put a set of BBK's on mine, and doing a progressive torque is the key to eliminating leaks and getting an even seal across the whole mating surface. Make sure the neighboring bolts aren't over torqued either; that can create a leak too.

Nice, a good procedure. I did something very similar by tightening them down to 15 foot pounds, starting with the inside bolts then working to the outside bolts, then went back and twisted them to 18 foot pounds, inside to out. Using new OEM gaskets and silicon seal provided by Stainless Works, still had leaks. The passenger side was so difficult for me that I may have not done all that well, I will loosen it up and try it again.

[urr2slo]

Don't use the silicone seal, just new GM gaskets. If it still leaks pull the header and check the flange with a straight edge.

[BowlingSS]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

If you cross threaded the bolt you might have done some damage. I would try and remove it and check to make sure. A dab of loctite helps on the header bolts too, sometimes they can come lose without it. The passenger side is no breeze but go work on a 4th gen Fbody for a little bit. You'll feel like you can jump into the engine bay on your 2010 after that.

I agree with the 4th GEN. My 5th GEN is sooo much easier to work on.

Bill

[MickGIS]

Originally Posted by MickGIS

I installed the Stainless Power Headers...

I still have a small leak over #2, will I damage my car if I drive it the 25 miles or so back to the DIY shop so I can try to repair it?

[MickGIS]

Before I drove it to the DIY Auto Repair garage I checked the two header bolts on either side of cylinder #2 and torqued them to 20-25 ft/lbs which stopped the exhaust leak.
I have an appointment this coming Tuesday the 25th to get a Dyno tune at American Intense Racing here in Colorado.
On January 30, 2010 at 1,770 miles with it stock the last of three pulls on the dyno registered 365.08 WHP, 371.28 RWTQ
My Camaro is at 45,041 miles now.
The LS3 in this Camaro is rated at 426 HP at the crank so my goal is with just bolt-ons and a tune is to get 426 WHP.

My mods:

1. CAI cold air intake
2. ADM scoop
3. Roto-Fab w/w relocate
4. Stainless Power LT headers
5. Stainless Works High flow Cats
6. Hearthrob cat back H-pipe with high flow muffles

What do you think do I have a chance at 426 WHP?

[oslouie]

Originally Posted by MickGIS

Before I drove it to the DIY Auto Repair garage I checked the two header bolts on either side of cylinder #2 and torqued them to 20-25 ft/lbs which stopped the exhaust leak.
I have an appointment this coming Tuesday the 25th to get a Dyno tune at American Intense Racing here in Colorado.
On January 30, 2010 at 1,770 miles with it stock the last of three pulls on the dyno registered 365.08 WHP, 371.28 RWTQ
The LS3 in this Camaro is rated at 426 HP at the crank so my goal is with just bolt-ons and a tune is to get 426 WHP.

My mods:

1. CAI cold air intake
2. ADM scoop
3. Roto-Fab w/w relocate
4. Stainless Power LT headers
5. Stainless Works High flow Cats
6. Hearthrob cat back H-pipe with high flow muffles

What do you think do I have a chance at 426 WHP?

Very possible.

[Destructo09]

My brother and myself both have 1 7/8" headers from stainless power. He has the CAI with no scoop and no w/w relocate. We both have the HFCs. He was running a Borla Type S catback and I have a flowmaster American thunder 3".

He made 423 SAE I made 421 SAE. So with a good tune I think you should be pretty close to where we are. No clue what my car would have dyno'd stock, it wasn't stock when I bought it.