R1 Concepts front/back

[krazzyk01]

I've been poking around in here and haven't really seen anything about the brakes on our cars being any different than regular SS models. I talked to the dealer too and he didn't see anything different part number wise either, so I went ahead and orderd the complete front/back Premium cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from R1 Concepts along with their braided stainless steel brake hoses. I've got the rotors and pads in hand and the hoses show up tomorrow.

Before I get this show rolling, is there any advice out there concerning doing the brake job itself?

I've got the same R1 setup on my '06 Magnum and I couldn't love them anymore than I do now. I put them on there at 62k miles and I've now got a bit over 136k miles and they're still running strong. No lip on the rotors, no dust to speak off, and they stop great.

I'm not new to doing brakes, I'm just new to these brakes and looking for any tips so I don't mess things up with these.

Thanks,

[TxBandit911]

Its pretty straight forward. If you've done other brakes, you shouldn't have a problem. I would make double sure not to spill brake fluid on the red calipers, wouldn't want to mess up the finish. Other than that, straight forward normal swap. Enjoy.

[krazzyk01]

Thanks. I've not delt with 6 piston calipers before and just wanted to make sure. And ya, the red calipers I've been told cost $1500 each! So I don't want to mess them up at all.

So just knock out the pins with a punch and pull the pads. Then the two bolts on the back to drop the caliper off to get to the rotors.

Cool.

[1killer_SS]

Also, Have fun burning them in! Ive got the R1 premier cross drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads, they were a little stubborn but came out nicely. As for the rotors after almost 9 months they are starting to get a little blued, but no warpage at all. Obviously I am hard on the brakes.

[Dropspeed]

To confirm SS and SS/1LE pads, rotors, calipers and lines are all the same with the only difference being the caliper paint color.

Only word of caution is that the paint (not powder coat as some assume) chips very easy when knocking the pins in and out.

[TxBandit911]

Good news is, if you screw up the paint, its not a ton of money to have them powder coated. Like they should have been from the damned factory....

[1killer_SS]

I personally like the black, I do agree they should have been powder coated.

[krazzyk01]

Yep. Found out about the chipping when I first took off the wheels and let one of them drop a little and hit the caliper on the top corner. CHIP! MOTHER )$@(#$)(*@#$_)*(@#_*() \\

I'll find out how things go Monday when I have time to do all the work. I just picked up a set of Quick Jacks and it makes lifting the car SO easy.

Check it out. Not cheap but very very useful.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnr-5175188/overview/

Just don't believe the ETA. I ordered mine in Sept and just got them this week.

[SteveV]

I am confused... I thought that the majority of guys on the forum have said there is no advantage to cross drilled or slotted rotors.

I have tried 3 different pad compounds on the street at on the road course. And pad compound DOES make a difference. So, why did you decide to swap rotors as well?

[SteveV]

Oh and I too went with braided steel lines before my first HPDE event. Way worth the money.

They should come like this from the factory. I seriously doubt most of us would have balked at an extra $200.

[krazzyk01]

Originally Posted by SteveV

I am confused... I thought that the majority of guys on the forum have said there is no advantage to cross drilled or slotted rotors.

I have tried 3 different pad compounds on the street at on the road course. And pad compound DOES make a difference. So, why did you decide to swap rotors as well?

This isn't really about the best track setup. It's about what has worked for me in the past. The brake lines alone make a HUGE improvement.

The cross drilled and slotted rotors are two fold for me. R1 uses a high carbon steel which they also use in their premium slab rotor if you prefer. I really like the look of the drilled and slotted and you'd be hard pressed to prove an appreciable difference in performance to me in the way I use them.

Aside from all the performance stuff I like the fact they don't rust up like average rotors do just washing your car. They just work great on my Dodge Magnum which weighs a touch more than the Camaro. The lack of brake dust is huge to me as well.

[1killer_SS]

Originally Posted by SteveV

I am confused... I thought that the majority of guys on the forum have said there is no advantage to cross drilled or slotted rotors.

I have tried 3 different pad compounds on the street at on the road course. And pad compound DOES make a difference. So, why did you decide to swap rotors as well?

The advantage is minimal at best in my opinion, however in my mind there is still an advantage. I got the slotted and drilled for the street. Mainly because I have warped every set of factory rotors I have ever had.

When it came time to change my pads for the first time I was just going to turn the rotors but they were too far gone. I was told "soft metal" I don't know if that's true or not but instead of buying the same thing, I figured I would upgrade and do better than what I had on the car currently. I got a great deal on the R1 Premier cross drilled and slotted rotors. So I bought them and they work and look really good, so I am happy. I have no idea how they would be for the track.

[90503]

IMO the R1 Premiums are a good up-grade from stock....but certainly not top grade for tracking...

...That being said, I track with R1 Slotted only and HPplus pads....For the price, they are great....I warped the stock ones with stock pads, and have tracked with the R1s way longer than I ever did with stock rotors and pads...

The R1s have held up fine for me so far and no complaints....Other brake rotors and systems are higher quality for sure and would no doubt hold up better if needed...If tracked harder, longer, more aggressively, etc.....So far my track "needs" are ok with the R1s....Until I warp these, I'll stay with them....

My theory on slots is they help at the track, a path for heat and dust to be removed...I stayed away from holes as I came to believe that unless your rotors and pad set up are high quality, cracks between holes become more of a possibility during track use with lower priced cast-iron rotors (such as the R1s)...

If you like the looks, but don't track hard, drilled and slotted would be just fine....

I'm sure there are plenty of guys who track hard with drilled rotors, expensive or inexpensive, and have never had any hole-to-hole cracking....I just didn't want to take that chance...

...Good luck....

[1killer_SS]

I have beat these rotors to hell and they have not warped, that impresses me. However they are just starting to blue. Any performance issues when they blue?