Installing suspension this weekend - what else should I add? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-16-2015, 07:13 PM

I have the BMR front and rear sways (sb039), oem end links and lower control arms.

Before I get installed im wondering what other things should I look at "while I'm there".

2010 SS that will be primarily used to drive around country roads on road trips and maybe road corse tacked once per year.

Not looking for anything I won't really feel, but figured while I'm doing all this if there are some other components I should add while I'm at it..

Trailing arms and toe links?

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-16-2015, 08:25 PM

you'll need end links that have 12mm studs on one end and 10mm studs on the other to connect the front swaybar properly.

which lower arms did you get?

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-16-2015, 08:32 PM

I got the 2012 end links with the 12mm as you mentioned

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-16-2015, 08:40 PM

then you will need a 12mm drill bit to drill out the front struts.

Which lower arms did you get?

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-16-2015, 10:50 PM

Yeah I will. And BMR

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-16-2015, 10:57 PM

right, but they make different ones and that makes a difference on my recommendations for you.

JDP Sales · 03-17-2015, 12:20 PM

Nothing else is really necessary, but you could do toe links to take advantage of only having to align once. Everything else would just be icing on the cake.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Dexman1349 · 03-17-2015, 01:15 PM

With the LCA's off, it would be an easy time to add springs/coilovers.

trailing arms and toe rods can be done at the same time too, but there really isn't any duplicate work other than the jackstands and taking the wheels off.

I also did the front radius arm bushing inserts and steering rack bushing at the same time as the fronts.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-17-2015, 02:22 PM

Should of mentioned I also have springs already installed. Thanks for all the help! Maybe I'll take a look at some toe links!

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-17-2015, 02:35 PM

PM Sent Tyler

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-17-2015, 10:25 PM

if you bought the lower arms that are not adjustable then i'd say it's a good time to install the eccentrics that allow more adjustment than stock.

if you are going to get toe links, then i'd go and do the trailing arms too.

The cradle will need to be dropped to do the left side toe link, so that would make it a good time to do the sub frame bushings,

Also doing the bushing at the rear of the trailing arm in the knuckles would be a good idea.

Dexman1349 · 03-18-2015, 11:41 AM

^^^ I only had to loosen the bolts on the subframe for the toe links, not fully drop it.

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-18-2015, 11:49 AM

ya, it doesn't need to come completely out of the car, but it needs to be dropped on the left side (with the left bolts removed and the right bolts loosened), but if you are going to go that far, and you have to remove the bolts for the toe links anyhow, why not replace them with the more adjustable eccentrics, and your half way there for the Subframe Bushings.

03-16-2015, 07:13 PM	#1
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,974 View My Garage	Installing suspension this weekend - what else should I add? I have the BMR front and rear sways (sb039), oem end links and lower control arms. Before I get installed im wondering what other things should I look at "while I'm there". 2010 SS that will be primarily used to drive around country roads on road trips and maybe road corse tacked once per year. Not looking for anything I won't really feel, but figured while I'm doing all this if there are some other components I should add while I'm at it.. Trailing arms and toe links? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-16-2015, 08:32 PM	#3
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,974 View My Garage	I got the 2012 end links with the 12mm as you mentioned __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-16-2015, 10:50 PM	#5
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,974 View My Garage	Yeah I will. And BMR __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-17-2015, 01:15 PM	#8
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	With the LCA's off, it would be an easy time to add springs/coilovers. trailing arms and toe rods can be done at the same time too, but there really isn't any duplicate work other than the jackstands and taking the wheels off. I also did the front radius arm bushing inserts and steering rack bushing at the same time as the fronts. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

03-17-2015, 02:22 PM	#9
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,974 View My Garage	Should of mentioned I also have springs already installed. Thanks for all the help! Maybe I'll take a look at some toe links! __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-16-2015, 08:25 PM	#2
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	you'll need end links that have 12mm studs on one end and 10mm studs on the other to connect the front swaybar properly. which lower arms did you get?

03-16-2015, 08:40 PM	#4
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	then you will need a 12mm drill bit to drill out the front struts. Which lower arms did you get?

03-16-2015, 10:57 PM	#6
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	right, but they make different ones and that makes a difference on my recommendations for you.

03-17-2015, 12:20 PM	#7
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Nothing else is really necessary, but you could do toe links to take advantage of only having to align once. Everything else would just be icing on the cake. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

03-17-2015, 02:35 PM	#10
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,974 View My Garage	PM Sent Tyler __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-17-2015, 10:25 PM	#11
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	if you bought the lower arms that are not adjustable then i'd say it's a good time to install the eccentrics that allow more adjustment than stock. if you are going to get toe links, then i'd go and do the trailing arms too. The cradle will need to be dropped to do the left side toe link, so that would make it a good time to do the sub frame bushings, Also doing the bushing at the rear of the trailing arm in the knuckles would be a good idea.

03-18-2015, 11:41 AM	#12
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	^^^ I only had to loosen the bolts on the subframe for the toe links, not fully drop it. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

03-18-2015, 11:49 AM	#13
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	ya, it doesn't need to come completely out of the car, but it needs to be dropped on the left side (with the left bolts removed and the right bolts loosened), but if you are going to go that far, and you have to remove the bolts for the toe links anyhow, why not replace them with the more adjustable eccentrics, and your half way there for the Subframe Bushings.