ABS Relocation - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

sick13ss1le · 06-21-2015, 09:24 PM

I used the search but came up empty. I know there are members that have done this i need to relocate the abs module due to fitment of my turbo headers. so if anyone has a write up on this or could post some pictures of how they did it and the location they moved it to that would be great thanks!

krusher · 06-22-2015, 11:13 AM

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This is where another guy and I put our ABS. Mine is the cyber grey while his is the orange. I have braked hard and not felt a difference even though I was told there would be.

Now with that said I would recommend try and find how this one guy cut the area above his cabin air filter and welded the same bracket with some support and it was then oriented the correct way (same as factory). I will try and find the car that did it that way; it was pretty cool.

The way we did it you have to cut your fender well and add a shield to it. I made one out of thin gauge metal and tap screws and then painted it black. I also have 275's up front for wider tires than stock and it does not rub so you might have to look at that when locating your ABS module.

Basically you just have to reuse the bracket for your ABS and just modify it to your new location. I would go out and buy a double flare tool or you can rent one from O Riley's. I reused some of my factory lines and just spliced into them. After doing some research I wish I would have used some braided steel brake line to reduce the number of flares I had to make. It took me along time to do this, but I never had a leak since I was so meticulous since this is a very important part of your car. I also did it with the engine in place, but if you have the chance take the engine out as it is a huge PITA to keep it in and do brake lines. At least the way I have the routed.

blake-b · 06-22-2015, 01:58 PM

^^^^^I might be that guy...

Here is mine with an SJM line lock installed. This was a mockup for the linelock as I am going to get it's lines powdercoated as well.

I cut the factory mount off, obtained some square U channel pieces, welded them in, them welded the factory mount to it. Then you just make some new brake lines.

Go to a NAPA store and get the copper-nickel brake lines. You can bend it by hand. It is also used by many auto manufacturers such as OEM.
http://www.brakequip.com/products/tube/ezi-bend-tube

It cuts and flares easily too.

If you do move the ABS, you will have some extra wiring from the module to contend with (it will be too long). You can cut the wires and splice them or go all OCD like I did and run new, 1-piece wires from connector to connector...

Sorry for the blurry pictures.

sick13ss1le · 06-23-2015, 05:01 PM

thanks for the response i could pull the engine but i don't really feel like going through that hassle again sine i am doing this in a 1 car garage....(i really need to just build a new one)

killmode_on · 06-23-2015, 07:27 PM

Anybody figured out how to remove the ABS all together and not have the ECU/BCM go crazy? Maybe leave it plugged in but without the brake lines going though it?

sick13ss1le · 06-23-2015, 08:14 PM

I don't think that would work due to it would activate and then go crazy since there is no fluid running through it

blake-b · 06-23-2015, 09:12 PM

In the thread linked by Nathan, there is a guy who put in a proportioning valve in place of the ABS. When I ordered my line lock without lines and told Steve at SJM why, he asked me why I didn't delete the ABS and put in a proportioning valve.

sick13ss1le · 06-24-2015, 01:20 AM

would just pulling the fuses work if you were going to delete it?

06-21-2015, 09:24 PM	#1
sick13ss1le Drives: 2013 2ss/rs 1le Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: United States Posts: 297	ABS Relocation I used the search but came up empty. I know there are members that have done this i need to relocate the abs module due to fitment of my turbo headers. so if anyone has a write up on this or could post some pictures of how they did it and the location they moved it to that would be great thanks!

06-22-2015, 01:58 PM	#3
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	^^^^^I might be that guy... Here is mine with an SJM line lock installed. This was a mockup for the linelock as I am going to get it's lines powdercoated as well. I cut the factory mount off, obtained some square U channel pieces, welded them in, them welded the factory mount to it. Then you just make some new brake lines. Go to a NAPA store and get the copper-nickel brake lines. You can bend it by hand. It is also used by many auto manufacturers such as OEM. http://www.brakequip.com/products/tube/ezi-bend-tube It cuts and flares easily too. If you do move the ABS, you will have some extra wiring from the module to contend with (it will be too long). You can cut the wires and splice them or go all OCD like I did and run new, 1-piece wires from connector to connector... Sorry for the blurry pictures. Attached Images

06-23-2015, 07:27 PM	#5
killmode_on Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: AZ Posts: 131	Anybody figured out how to remove the ABS all together and not have the ECU/BCM go crazy? Maybe leave it plugged in but without the brake lines going though it? __________________ Be vewy vewy quiet, I'm hunting GT500's.

06-22-2015, 11:13 AM	#2
krusher Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Oskaloosa, IA Posts: 632	This is where another guy and I put our ABS. Mine is the cyber grey while his is the orange. I have braked hard and not felt a difference even though I was told there would be. Now with that said I would recommend try and find how this one guy cut the area above his cabin air filter and welded the same bracket with some support and it was then oriented the correct way (same as factory). I will try and find the car that did it that way; it was pretty cool. The way we did it you have to cut your fender well and add a shield to it. I made one out of thin gauge metal and tap screws and then painted it black. I also have 275's up front for wider tires than stock and it does not rub so you might have to look at that when locating your ABS module. Basically you just have to reuse the bracket for your ABS and just modify it to your new location. I would go out and buy a double flare tool or you can rent one from O Riley's. I reused some of my factory lines and just spliced into them. After doing some research I wish I would have used some braided steel brake line to reduce the number of flares I had to make. It took me along time to do this, but I never had a leak since I was so meticulous since this is a very important part of your car. I also did it with the engine in place, but if you have the chance take the engine out as it is a huge PITA to keep it in and do brake lines. At least the way I have the routed.

06-23-2015, 05:01 PM	#4
sick13ss1le Drives: 2013 2ss/rs 1le Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: United States Posts: 297	thanks for the response i could pull the engine but i don't really feel like going through that hassle again sine i am doing this in a 1 car garage....(i really need to just build a new one)

06-23-2015, 08:14 PM	#6
sick13ss1le Drives: 2013 2ss/rs 1le Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: United States Posts: 297	I don't think that would work due to it would activate and then go crazy since there is no fluid running through it

06-23-2015, 09:12 PM	#7
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	In the thread linked by Nathan, there is a guy who put in a proportioning valve in place of the ABS. When I ordered my line lock without lines and told Steve at SJM why, he asked me why I didn't delete the ABS and put in a proportioning valve.

06-24-2015, 01:20 AM	#8
sick13ss1le Drives: 2013 2ss/rs 1le Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: United States Posts: 297	would just pulling the fuses work if you were going to delete it?