What caused this cam damage on rebuild? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Turboencabulatr · 12-13-2015, 02:33 PM

This engine has less than 10k on it.

Supercharged stroker with lopey cam. Did a bad valve job and sticky valves do this as it's only 5 lobes? There is no valve piston collisions.

Homeless Man · 12-13-2015, 02:42 PM

Seems like aftermarket cams aren't super reliable. That's what's keeping me away from getting a cam especially for someone that doesn't know how to do any engine work if something goes wrong I wouldn't be able to diagnose it.

xc_SS/RS · 12-13-2015, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeless Man

Seems like aftermarket cams aren't super reliable. That's what's keeping me away from getting a cam especially for someone that doesn't know how to do any engine work if something goes wrong I wouldn't be able to diagnose it.

Yeah pictures like that don't make it an easy decision to do internal work.

Going to watch this for what could've caused the damage. Those are crazy looking lobes. Maybe wrong push rod length?

Badfinger · 12-13-2015, 06:13 PM

Man that looks like bad metallurgy to me, shrink or voids in the metal. Who manufactured that cam?

Bodywerks · 12-13-2015, 06:27 PM

Looks like a faulty core, or metal processing. You might have had better luck with a cam motion 8620. That looks to me like a comp 5150 core.
Even Texas speed now offer there cams on 8620 cores even though they felt there was nothing wrong with their current offering.
Every damaged cam pic I have seen was on a 5150 core.
I see now where comp offers tool steel cores for the gen V engines.

Turboencabulatr · 12-13-2015, 06:49 PM

I didn't purchase it but it was a custom grind. This is the ID.

h018871 · 12-14-2015, 03:12 PM

The wear is on the leading side only, correct?

vroomapunk · 12-14-2015, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h018871

The wear is on the leading side only, correct?

Good question!

Thats nasty, looks a lifter turned and dug in, but not likely it happened on more than one lobe.

Bad core? Interested to see what smart ppl think

Caswell239 · 12-14-2015, 03:41 PM

whoa, thats nasty!

kevin87turbot · 12-14-2015, 04:52 PM

That's a bad one! Do you know where it was purchased? It doesn't appear to be a Comp Cams or a Camotion. I've seen a few reground stock cams with similar markings.

Bo White · 12-14-2015, 06:49 PM

Yep looks like a factory core regrind. He said its a lopy cam, doesnt seem to know whats in it. Hell it may be a hot cam all we know.

christianchevell · 12-14-2015, 07:20 PM

If its a single bolt it may be a stock GM cam .... Its bad metal looking to me like the casting had air bubbles trapped below the surface and with the spring pressure those lobes got ate and the appearance looks to be pitted form voids in the metal not form wear of the rollers. You can see some fairly normal tracking in the other lobes. IMO its a bad core.
But also there are other things that can be contributing factors to a cam failing ...sticky lifters/ shot lifters/ shot rollers/ shot rocker trunnions making things bad but yours does not have the even wear around it damaging the cam all around it the other things would contribute to.

I do not think event that breaking in the cam correctly could have saved this cam because of its flaws it only would have maybe made it last longer. SO yes you should get a new cam, and hopefully what little shrapnel you had did not damage bearings surfaces much and just went to the pan.

I use driven racing BR30 for break in of my cars cam, and now new engine. I could show you a pic of my comp cam at ten thousand miles..it looks damn new..... I sold it when my last engine had a over rev problem bite me, and thus went to a stroker.

Occasionally even stock cams I have heard of falling apart, my tuner has done many.

On my current engine I ran round of br30 for the engine dyno tune / brake in at various rpms for 20-30 minutes....then dump then a round for 400 miles, then I am on conventional high ZDDP racing oil to ensure even longer for all the rings and such to be fine for a couple thousand,( block maker recommends 3500 miles before synthetic), but does not consider my use of the br30. I am about 900 miiles before I switch to driven racing ls30 the best oil for our engines for built LS engines I have found... http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...tech-bulletin/

People used to like to blame comp cam for bad cores on here supposedly, only there photos and the truth to me were it was really rare. Often too they were running crappy oil or had contributing factors big time like: no break in of cam, bad lifters, rollers just dragging because the oil was too slippery( sheer rating off).... Really that does matter the rollers have to roll, and other things..... And usually the story was muddled and yours is a pic of what would be under cam failure from metallurgy IMO...

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...pics&FORM=IGRE

So good luck to you I would of course recommend you start with the hardest core possible a 8620 and even TSP is making them Harder now than just the standard comp core which was as you can see just fine for me and many others. A bad cam is rare but it looks like you got one..... And that looks like stock one bolt......

paul84043 · 12-14-2015, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badfinger

Man that looks like bad metallurgy to me, shrink or voids in the metal. Who manufactured that cam?

My thoughts exactly... looks like crap potmetal. wow.

Turboencabulatr · 12-14-2015, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h018871

The wear is on the leading side only, correct?

Yes the damage is all on the leading faces in the same spots.
I don't know what the cam is. It came in a motor i bought.

12-13-2015, 02:33 PM	#1
Turboencabulatr Drives: 2006 SS blazer AWD Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Los Angeles CA Posts: 8	What caused this cam damage on rebuild? This engine has less than 10k on it. Supercharged stroker with lopey cam. Did a bad valve job and sticky valves do this as it's only 5 lobes? There is no valve piston collisions. Attached Images

12-13-2015, 02:42 PM	#2
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	Seems like aftermarket cams aren't super reliable. That's what's keeping me away from getting a cam especially for someone that doesn't know how to do any engine work if something goes wrong I wouldn't be able to diagnose it. __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.

12-13-2015, 06:27 PM	#5
Bodywerks Drives: 2015 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Tucson Posts: 866	Looks like a faulty core, or metal processing. You might have had better luck with a cam motion 8620. That looks to me like a comp 5150 core. Even Texas speed now offer there cams on 8620 cores even though they felt there was nothing wrong with their current offering. Every damaged cam pic I have seen was on a 5150 core. I see now where comp offers tool steel cores for the gen V engines. __________________ 2015 SS/RS/1LE HSA delete, VMAX throttle body, CAI inc. Intake, PRC255 heads, BTR 660 springs, BTR cryo-treated rockers, PAT G 232/240 .654/.626 110+2, johnson 2110's, Manton 502 pushrods, C5R, Melling high volume/high pressure, Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley, Proform covers, Kooks stepped headers, catless mids, Doug Thorley exhaust. 512rwhp, 446rwtq on a mustang dyno, tuned by Cunningham motorsports. Last edited by Bodywerks; 12-13-2015 at 07:02 PM.

12-13-2015, 06:49 PM	#6
Turboencabulatr Drives: 2006 SS blazer AWD Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Los Angeles CA Posts: 8	I didn't purchase it but it was a custom grind. This is the ID. Attached Images

12-14-2015, 03:12 PM	#7
h018871 Geoff Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,762	The wear is on the leading side only, correct? __________________ Having a Blast https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...php?p=10741733

12-13-2015, 06:13 PM	#4
Badfinger Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 387 View My Garage	Man that looks like bad metallurgy to me, shrink or voids in the metal. Who manufactured that cam?

12-14-2015, 03:41 PM	#9
Caswell239 Drives: 2011 2ss/rs Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Canada Posts: 1,431	whoa, thats nasty!

12-14-2015, 04:52 PM	#10
kevin87turbot Drives: 2012 Camaro 1SS with Turbonetics Join Date: May 2014 Location: Ripley, MS Posts: 47	That's a bad one! Do you know where it was purchased? It doesn't appear to be a Comp Cams or a Camotion. I've seen a few reground stock cams with similar markings. __________________ 2012 1SS...in the 10's...but not fast enough yet.

12-14-2015, 06:49 PM	#11
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,090	Yep looks like a factory core regrind. He said its a lopy cam, doesnt seem to know whats in it. Hell it may be a hot cam all we know.

12-14-2015, 07:20 PM	#12
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2021 zl1 a-10 WildCherry Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,622 View My Garage	If its a single bolt it may be a stock GM cam .... Its bad metal looking to me like the casting had air bubbles trapped below the surface and with the spring pressure those lobes got ate and the appearance looks to be pitted form voids in the metal not form wear of the rollers. You can see some fairly normal tracking in the other lobes. IMO its a bad core. But also there are other things that can be contributing factors to a cam failing ...sticky lifters/ shot lifters/ shot rollers/ shot rocker trunnions making things bad but yours does not have the even wear around it damaging the cam all around it the other things would contribute to. I do not think event that breaking in the cam correctly could have saved this cam because of its flaws it only would have maybe made it last longer. SO yes you should get a new cam, and hopefully what little shrapnel you had did not damage bearings surfaces much and just went to the pan. I use driven racing BR30 for break in of my cars cam, and now new engine. I could show you a pic of my comp cam at ten thousand miles..it looks damn new..... I sold it when my last engine had a over rev problem bite me, and thus went to a stroker. Occasionally even stock cams I have heard of falling apart, my tuner has done many. On my current engine I ran round of br30 for the engine dyno tune / brake in at various rpms for 20-30 minutes....then dump then a round for 400 miles, then I am on conventional high ZDDP racing oil to ensure even longer for all the rings and such to be fine for a couple thousand,( block maker recommends 3500 miles before synthetic), but does not consider my use of the br30. I am about 900 miiles before I switch to driven racing ls30 the best oil for our engines for built LS engines I have found... http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...tech-bulletin/ People used to like to blame comp cam for bad cores on here supposedly, only there photos and the truth to me were it was really rare. Often too they were running crappy oil or had contributing factors big time like: no break in of cam, bad lifters, rollers just dragging because the oil was too slippery( sheer rating off).... Really that does matter the rollers have to roll, and other things..... And usually the story was muddled and yours is a pic of what would be under cam failure from metallurgy IMO... http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...pics&FORM=IGRE So good luck to you I would of course recommend you start with the hardest core possible a 8620 and even TSP is making them Harder now than just the standard comp core which was as you can see just fine for me and many others. A bad cam is rare but it looks like you got one..... And that looks like stock one bolt...... __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data,Red Carbon Interior, Nav, RotoFab Big Gulp , Elite x2ultra, Borla ATAK, Driveshaft shop, BMR susp, Speed covers, intercoolers, ATI , 2650 MAG, DSX lid, 103 NW, TSP Longtubes & cats, LPE, 1le mods, ,LME cover, Katech pump and chain, Trunnions, BTR stage 2, LPE boostapump, Gforce, Speed eng , Granetteli, etc etc