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Old 04-22-2016, 03:32 PM   #1
juicehead2004
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2010 Ls3 oil pump swap

I have a 2010 ss ls3 and my oil pump failed. Shut it down in time and saved the engine , I bought a Melling 10295 to replace it with.. My question is install.., I called a local shop and they tried to quote me 13-14 hrs and claimed u have to unbolt the whole engine from the mounts to replace pump. But I see a bunch on here saying it's no more than a 4-5 hour job and nothing about pulling the motor.. Can someone please let me know what needs to be done to replace the pump , a quick step by step.. Doesn't have to be super detailed just a quick guide so I know what I'm looking at please.. Thanks for any help in advance guys..!
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:51 PM   #2
hammdo
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My build shows a heads Supercharger, and cam install, but it includes the oil pump removal and installation. Starts around page 6 if you want to see what is involved. Had to drop the pan to get to one bolt, and that one bolt on the oil pump pickup tube is a pain...

-Don
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:00 PM   #3
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Alldata shows 10.6 hours. That being said, you'll be unlikely to find a shop willing to do it for less regardless of how long it takes them to do the job.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:43 PM   #4
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Definitely don't have to pull the motor to replace the oil pump. Find another shop....NOW!!!

As Hammdo stated above, the oil pump pick-up tube bolt is difficult, however, if you have a flex-head, ratcheting 10mm wrench, it makes removal/install of that bolt a whole lot easier.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:55 PM   #5
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You can lower the oil pan by 3/4 inch by loosening the bolts. It gives you enough space to unbolt the pump from the pick up tube. Its a tiny space to work in, but definitly doable.
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:20 PM   #6
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Yep, pretty much what I had to do, drop it just enough, flex head ratchet, and hemostat clips...

Can be done, but it is a lot of labor...

-Don
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:39 PM   #7
ravensjeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicehead2004 View Post
I have a 2010 ss ls3 and my oil pump failed. Shut it down in time and saved the engine , I bought a Melling 10295 to replace it with.. My question is install.., I called a local shop and they tried to quote me 13-14 hrs and claimed u have to unbolt the whole engine from the mounts to replace pump. But I see a bunch on here saying it's no more than a 4-5 hour job and nothing about pulling the motor.. Can someone please let me know what needs to be done to replace the pump , a quick step by step.. Doesn't have to be super detailed just a quick guide so I know what I'm looking at please.. Thanks for any help in advance guys..!
I thought I saved my engine as well by shutting it down immediately. I was in car, started it, seen oil pressure warning and turned car off. Towed car to shop, replaced oil pump. Cool, back on road, all appeared well. Unfortunately, not the case. I eventually got a check engine light. Basically, low oil pressure for cars operating conditions. Come to find out, it appears that the initial damage steamrolled into a destroyed 650 HP forged engine.

i hope yours is not the same. I was lucky enough to be able to put in a LSX-376 B15 long block, with original Maggie and a few other items. Final tune turned 765 HP/686 lbs of torque (Flywheel). So all is good now, but after many painful nights.

Good luck.
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:31 PM   #8
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The cam swap by robertway in the DIY section is a very good tutorial and he shows the steps in replacing the oil pump.

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Old 04-23-2016, 01:36 PM   #9
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I kept loosening all my bolts on my oil pan and had them all almost all the way out. It was a pain in the ass and finally just took all the bolts out. Next time I didn't screw around. I just took all the bolts out and lowered the pan.
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:42 PM   #10
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I left just one bolt on the left side just to keep the pan aligned...

-Don
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:28 PM   #11
juicehead2004
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Thank u to everyone who posted I appreciate all the help..
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Old 04-23-2016, 06:30 PM   #12
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Should probably cam swap since you'll have the pump off LOL

Don't forget to shim the pump unless you're doing the LS pump
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheaded View Post
Should probably cam swap since you'll have the pump off LOL

Don't forget to shim the pump unless you're doing the LS pump
This!!! but maybe do not invest on a cam if your engine might be damage..

View this..not sure if shims are ''needed or not'', they stated ''for performance application''. Well I did not use shims...I didnt know. Oil pressure is strong cold at 60psi, 30 hot idle and 38-40 cruising.

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Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE

Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:02 PM   #14
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With my LLT I was always worried about a failure related to timing chains or bearings...

Now I'm watching my damn oil pressure like a hawk anytime I start the car! I hope this is a relatively low rate of occurrence, or I'm going to end up with an ulcer
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