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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 560
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Look What I Found Today
So I bought the car with aftermarket spacers and they did a crap job and the car and steering wheel shimmies at high speeds. I have had several people look at it and they all thought it was the tires or rims. After all those came back ok I found out about the spacer problem.
Anyways how do I get these rear spacers off look what he did. He welded the ends.
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Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust
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#2 |
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Mike
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A carbide bit like is used to take burrs off engine blocks might work to grind the welds off. That really sucks though. Good luck!
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Cyber Gray 2SS RS Join Date: May 2012
Location: Paradise, Newfoundland. Canada
Posts: 121
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Ouch...you're gonna have to get in there with a grinder and grind the welding enough so the nuts can unscrew. Get pass the welding and they should come off. You may need to put some heat on the nuts after the grinding to expand them . Helps them unscrew better if their seized. One at a time if you have to heat them and only heat the nut , not the stud. Quick heat will do it. If that doesn't work you may have to heat the nuts and quench them with water. I own a machine shop and have seen lots of that crap over the years.....good luck.
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 560
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Thanks guys, unfortunately I live in an apartment so none of this can be done by me. I will have to make some calls tomorrow and see who can help me out. What a mess.
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Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust
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#5 | |
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H-Town Camaro Club Member
Drives: 17 Hyper Blue Metallic KLR-ZL1 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pearland Tx.
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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By the time you pay some one to clean this mess up, it may be cheaper to toss them in the garbage and get new hubs.
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#7 |
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SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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This was my exact first thought when I saw the picture. Buy new hubs, most likely going to be cheaper and safer.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
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#8 |
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Resident nomad
Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,765
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Agree with this^....Not worth the hassle, time and $$, and you'll have brand new hubs/bearings when your done. What a f'ed up job that was.... Good luck!
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Sold:
2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing. |
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#9 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 334
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I'd try a grinder with a flapper disc on there..
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2010 2SS LS3 228/235 Cam Motion custom ground cam, AI 280cc ported heads, Dynatech 1 7/8" long tubes, catless mids, CAI intake, ATI 10% UDP, CORSA cat back, Slp 160 tstat, gm 3.91s/Tru trac, EFI LIVE tuned by myself
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#10 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Victory Red Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Rosenberg, Texas
Posts: 780
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Just start over dude, you'll be money ahead
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Speed Engineering Headers w/ Texas Speed HFC's ~ Flowmaster 2 1/2" cat back w/Flowmaster Super 10's ~ Cold Air Inductions Intake w/ Scoop and WW relocate ~ VMAX CNC Spiral PTB ~ Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors w/Hawk pads ~ ZL1 Spoiler ~ SCTX4 RDP Tuned
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#11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Victory Red 6M Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Gulf Coast, TX
Posts: 1,424
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You'd be there for hrs with a flapper wheel and not make any progress with it. Only tool that will make any kind of progress is either a carbide burr on a high powered die grinder or torch.
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2011 2SS 6A Red Jewel Metallic, Vararam Tune CAI, Magnaflow 3" Competition c/b, Speed Engineering 1-7/8 LT's, Circle D 5C, M/T 275/40R20 S/S, HPTuners tune by Ryan@GPI
12.3 @ 112 ACM as of 12/22/19 Gone on 12/28/19 R I P 2010 2SS 6M Victory Red/Black (old ride) CAI intake, Speed Engineering 1 7/8" LT's, X4 base tune, Flowmaster Outlaw axle-back. 12.6 @ 115 SAR as of 9/19/15 Gone but never forgotten. |
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#12 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 RS/SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 873
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Just wow.
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#13 |
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#14 |
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10-bolt Destroyer
Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS - AGM, LS3/6M Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Canukistan
Posts: 861
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Plasma cutter the nuts off, it'll desttroy whats left of the stud also which you will have to replace anyways.
I would buy new hubs if you're not doign it yourself. It'll cost more in time x labor to get 10 of those off than it will be to pay for hubs and labor to replace them.
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2012 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3/TR6060: Cam, Headers, Exhaust, Intake, Gears, Twin Disk, Suspension, Tuned - 475rwhp, 443rwtq |
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