Solid Subframe Bushing install - Pegasus Review - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

dentnshell · 11-20-2016, 08:02 PM

Installed my Solid Subframe Bushings from Pegasus today.

Install was just under 3 hours. Just my wife and I in the garage. Put the car on jack stands and used 2 - jacks and the heat method.
Removed the rear sway bar, and the lower shock bolt. I do have an impact which made the install so much easier than I had feared. I really thought this install was going to be a big deal. It was not, it was much easier than the 1" drop springs. I am sure if I had to cut them out, I would have felt differently.

I did not drop the exhaust "NPP" I did however loosen up one side at a time in order to drop the subframe enough to get a socket on top of the rear subframe. I was only able to initially get a pry bar on top of the rear bushings. I ended up taking the bolts out of both the front and rear of one side to gain enough clearance to install the bushings.

FWIW only one bushing "Popped" out like the videos show... The rest slowly squeezed out as they melted. I only applied heat to the outside of the bushing just like the videos, but I did try to heat as much of the exposed metal on that one side.

The inserts are not drop in, I would say they are press in with the jack and with the impact upon re-install. This only makes sense, as you certainly don't want any slop in the bushing. The bushings appear to be of great quality the look great and feel even more "refined" than I was anticipating. The fit and finish is perfect!

The NVH increase is minimal if nothing at all. The car launches much truer with less sideways lunging. It is dead on now ( Installed the ZL1 differential last weekend, and wanted to put a few miles on that mod boefore the subframe mounts, for comparisons sake.) The performance increase is also noticeable when going over seams in the road. Before the car had a tendency to skip sideways / wiggle when going over a perpendicular seam in the road... Difficult to describe. I was unable to get into get an alignment yet (scheduled for tomorrow.) I figure it is due after the new rear end and bushings.

In short - Don't be afraid of this mod, it is not difficult and, IMO, definitely worth it at any power level! There are other brands available, but none of those could touch the price of the Pegasus mounts. So glad I went with these instead of inserts!

~Denton

Soybeanrice · 11-25-2016, 05:25 AM

i appreciate the review... I'm gonna go ahead and get these myself. How did you end up getting the steel sleeves out ? Will there be enough room for me to cut them with a sawzall?

JantzenOKC · 11-25-2016, 06:15 AM

I was very happy with my Pegasus subframe bushings. Mine definitely didn't press in though. Two I tapped in and the other two would actually go in and spin a little bit. But once I tightened them up they all got tight and there is no slip. The rear end feels way better being hard mounted like this. And I agree, NVH was barely any louder than before. Great mod and a great price.

dentnshell · 11-25-2016, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soybeanrice

i appreciate the review... I'm gonna go ahead and get these myself. How did you end up getting the steel sleeves out ? Will there be enough room for me to cut them with a sawzall?

In short... I didn't.
Here is a camaro5 thread that shows a video

Get the torch. If you don't have a handheld torch, pick one up it. I am amazed at what I use it for. It is often great to be able to simply apply a little heat. For this job I would have to say it was way easier than a saw. But since I didn't try the saw. I could be wrong.

2012LS3VERT · 11-25-2016, 03:51 PM

Thanks for the review! I generally do the heat method, the saw method can get very tiring. I have done it both ways several times. For anyone without a lift, I definitely recommend the heat method.

These are our most popular product, and definitely what we recommend as a first suspension upgrade before other suspension mods. We keep running out of them, we are making extra sets this week so that we will have plenty in the future!

As to the fitment in the subframe sleeves, The tubes in the subframe become out of round when they are welded in, so how tight they are in the tubes varies from one car to the next. If we made them tighter, some people would have issues with them being too tight. When the cradle gets bolted back in, the tubes actually squeeze around the bushings. If you were to take the subframe back out, the ones that were on the loose side would likely have to be hammered out. We have disassembled several cars with with our bushings installed to verify that everything squeezes into position when installed and won't move.

As always, I'm happy to help with install questions!

JOHNSONROD · 11-25-2016, 05:55 PM

man, i want a set. i want those camber plates too but my budget wont allow for both right now.

dentnshell · 11-25-2016, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Thanks for the review! I generally do the heat method, the saw method can get very tiring. I have done it both ways several times. For anyone without a lift, I definitely recommend the heat method.

These are our most popular product, and definitely what we recommend as a first suspension upgrade before other suspension mods. We keep running out of them, we are making extra sets this week so that we will have plenty in the future!

As to the fitment in the subframe sleeves, The tubes in the subframe become out of round when they are welded in, so how tight they are in the tubes varies from one car to the next. If we made them tighter, some people would have issues with them being too tight. When the cradle gets bolted back in, the tubes actually squeeze around the bushings. If you were to take the subframe back out, the ones that were on the loose side would likely have to be hammered out. We have disassembled several cars with with our bushings installed to verify that everything squeezes into position when installed and won't move.

As always, I'm happy to help with install questions!

Again on the size.. I think they are perfect... I was expecting drop in but it only makes sense that they SHOULD NOT be drop in... We are trying to firm things up. I did take a knife and clean some of the old nylon residue out... This made the bushings perfect.

Thanks for the great product.

2012LS3VERT · 11-25-2016, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

man, i want a set. i want those camber plates too but my budget wont allow for both right now.

Anyone looking at multiple products, or previous customers, should PM me for special deals!

Especially when the new parts we are finalizing are announced!

JantzenOKC · 11-26-2016, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Anyone looking at multiple products, or previous customers, should PM me for special deals!

Especially when the new parts we are finalizing are announced!

JOHNSONROD · 11-26-2016, 02:26 PM

pm the man. i did and he is working with me.

2012LS3VERT · 11-26-2016, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

pm the man. i did and he is working with me.

Soybeanrice · 11-28-2016, 06:29 PM

Happy to say I got the mounts coming! I do have a torch, but from my experience it usually leaves the steel sleeve, which you then have to cut.

I got a little excited and destroyed my wallet on the sales. Got many goodies coming!

2012LS3VERT · 11-28-2016, 06:33 PM

The stock bushings have a plastic sleeve that comes out with the rubber, no steel sleeve.

Soybeanrice · 11-28-2016, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

The stock bushings have a plastic sleeve that comes out with the rubber, no steel sleeve.

the best news ive heard in a while! YES! I did a friends diff bushing last week and cutting the sleeve sucked

11-20-2016, 08:02 PM	#1
dentnshell Drives: Black 2014 2SS Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Oologah, OK Posts: 454 View My Garage	Solid Subframe Bushing install - Pegasus Review Installed my Solid Subframe Bushings from Pegasus today. Install was just under 3 hours. Just my wife and I in the garage. Put the car on jack stands and used 2 - jacks and the heat method. Removed the rear sway bar, and the lower shock bolt. I do have an impact which made the install so much easier than I had feared. I really thought this install was going to be a big deal. It was not, it was much easier than the 1" drop springs. I am sure if I had to cut them out, I would have felt differently. I did not drop the exhaust "NPP" I did however loosen up one side at a time in order to drop the subframe enough to get a socket on top of the rear subframe. I was only able to initially get a pry bar on top of the rear bushings. I ended up taking the bolts out of both the front and rear of one side to gain enough clearance to install the bushings. FWIW only one bushing "Popped" out like the videos show... The rest slowly squeezed out as they melted. I only applied heat to the outside of the bushing just like the videos, but I did try to heat as much of the exposed metal on that one side. The inserts are not drop in, I would say they are press in with the jack and with the impact upon re-install. This only makes sense, as you certainly don't want any slop in the bushing. The bushings appear to be of great quality the look great and feel even more "refined" than I was anticipating. The fit and finish is perfect! The NVH increase is minimal if nothing at all. The car launches much truer with less sideways lunging. It is dead on now ( Installed the ZL1 differential last weekend, and wanted to put a few miles on that mod boefore the subframe mounts, for comparisons sake.) The performance increase is also noticeable when going over seams in the road. Before the car had a tendency to skip sideways / wiggle when going over a perpendicular seam in the road... Difficult to describe. I was unable to get into get an alignment yet (scheduled for tomorrow.) I figure it is due after the new rear end and bushings. In short - Don't be afraid of this mod, it is not difficult and, IMO, definitely worth it at any power level! There are other brands available, but none of those could touch the price of the Pegasus mounts. So glad I went with these instead of inserts! ~Denton __________________ 2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)

11-25-2016, 06:15 AM	#3
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	I was very happy with my Pegasus subframe bushings. Mine definitely didn't press in though. Two I tapped in and the other two would actually go in and spin a little bit. But once I tightened them up they all got tight and there is no slip. The rear end feels way better being hard mounted like this. And I agree, NVH was barely any louder than before. Great mod and a great price. __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

11-25-2016, 05:25 AM	#2
Soybeanrice Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 793	i appreciate the review... I'm gonna go ahead and get these myself. How did you end up getting the steel sleeves out ? Will there be enough room for me to cut them with a sawzall?

11-25-2016, 03:51 PM	#5
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	Thanks for the review! I generally do the heat method, the saw method can get very tiring. I have done it both ways several times. For anyone without a lift, I definitely recommend the heat method. These are our most popular product, and definitely what we recommend as a first suspension upgrade before other suspension mods. We keep running out of them, we are making extra sets this week so that we will have plenty in the future! As to the fitment in the subframe sleeves, The tubes in the subframe become out of round when they are welded in, so how tight they are in the tubes varies from one car to the next. If we made them tighter, some people would have issues with them being too tight. When the cradle gets bolted back in, the tubes actually squeeze around the bushings. If you were to take the subframe back out, the ones that were on the loose side would likely have to be hammered out. We have disassembled several cars with with our bushings installed to verify that everything squeezes into position when installed and won't move. As always, I'm happy to help with install questions!

11-25-2016, 05:55 PM	#6
JOHNSONROD Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 893	man, i want a set. i want those camber plates too but my budget wont allow for both right now.

11-26-2016, 02:26 PM	#10
JOHNSONROD Drives: 62 Chevy & 2021 1SS/1LE manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 893	pm the man. i did and he is working with me.

11-28-2016, 06:29 PM	#12
Soybeanrice Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 793	Happy to say I got the mounts coming! I do have a torch, but from my experience it usually leaves the steel sleeve, which you then have to cut. I got a little excited and destroyed my wallet on the sales. Got many goodies coming!

11-28-2016, 06:33 PM	#13
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	The stock bushings have a plastic sleeve that comes out with the rubber, no steel sleeve.