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Old 01-03-2017, 10:55 AM   #1
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Clay bar

Who all on here clays their car I haven't yet and woundering if it really helps?
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:00 AM   #2
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Clay Bar is da BOMB!

Wax it after.
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:12 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O.F. View Post
Clay Bar is da BOMB!

Wax it after.
Claying removes A LOT of junk & debris without damaging the paint, Like he said, polish & wax after.
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:30 AM   #4
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Yes and yes


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Old 01-03-2017, 12:49 PM   #5
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After you wash your vehicle, and believe it's clean, put your hand inside a plastic bag (I like the fold over sandwich type best) and slide your bagged hand over the vehicle's paint, you'll feel the contaminants still on the vehicle's surface. The plastic bag allows greater sensitivity to your finger tips.

Clay removes those embedded surface contaminants.

Wax afterwards yes, the clay will also remove any wax or sealant on the paint. It's not always necessary to polish after claying if you use a good clay lube and know to fold the clay as it gets loaded with contaminants as you work.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:03 PM   #6
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My son works at a detail shop and they have started using the clay mitts. Much faster than the little bar that I seem to always end up dropping.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:23 PM   #7
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Before


There are a few paint contamination removal products including chemical and mechanical.

For Chemical I like the results from Iron-X


For mechanical there are two primary choices.

Actual clay (i prefer fine and ultra fine)

and polymerized rubber (towel/mitt etc.) (I only use the FINE)


The idea and process is basic. Remove contaminants that are embedded in the paint.

Here is a product from Adams (I have not tried yet) but the video gives you the process and results!


When you "clay" your results should be a contaminant free "smooth" paint.
The finer grade "clay" products should leave a micro-marred free finish.
Medium grade coarser products may and can cause fine scratches.
These fine scratches will need to be "polished" to be removed.
Lots of lubricity and a soft gliding motion is the key.

After

Last edited by Merlin; 01-03-2017 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:56 PM   #8
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YES!!!!
Clay towel and Iron X!!!!
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:04 PM   #9
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Absolutely, I have been claying my cars since the mid 90's.......your paint will look more vibrant and you will get more depth after claying.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:33 PM   #10
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Yes once a year
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:12 AM   #11
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I clay right before doing a full detail, which is to wash, clay, polish, clean-up and then wax. I perform this regimen once a year.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRZN View Post
...put your hand inside a plastic bag (I like the fold over sandwich type best) and slide your bagged hand over the vehicle's paint, you'll feel the contaminants still on the vehicle's surface.

Clay removes those embedded surface contaminants.
I do it when you wash you paint and you do the "Baggie test" and feel embedded contaminants.

Ultra fine clay will not induce micro-marring. Apply a Last Step Product (LSP) was sealant etc. after claying.

NOTE: If you use a coating...I do not suggest using a mechanical (clay bar) decon method on a coating.
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Old 01-04-2017, 01:48 PM   #13
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Must have product... I do it yearly before a good polish
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:41 PM   #14
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Having used both regular clay (fine grade), and the SM Arnold Speedy Prep towel (fine grade), I'd go with the towel unless you are doing a vehicle with very soft paint.

The towel has many advantages over clay.

You don't have to knead it like traditional clay, just flip to a clean quarter.

If you drop it, you just rinse with warm water, then go right back to work. With standard clay, you throw it away if dropped.

No pressure is required for removal of stuck on contaminates with the towel, you just glide it across the surface and listen/feel. When it runs smooth, and you hear/feel no more grabbing, your done with that section. With traditional clay, you need to apply some pressure to remove contaminates. So the towel is easier on your body.

The towel has been tested, and will last 75-100 uses. So even though it costs more initially, it's more cost effective in the long run.

It takes less then half the amount of time to complete the car versus traditional clay. So it saves you time as well.

The best price I've found on the towel is on Amazon. SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel Fine Grade. $34.50.

I actually found one locally at a PPG paint store when I went to get some 2000 grit sandpaper, for $33. So you may be able to find one locally as well.

You'll also need clay lube. Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate 16oz. is $14-21 depending upon who you get it from, and what sale they are running. This bottle makes 5.5 gallons of clay lube. You can also use it for detail spray, and waterless wash, soaking bugs or bird bombs for easy removal. Best value for quality I've found for clay lube.

To see the difference claying can make, this is an extreme case, but shows effects.

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Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 01-04-2017 at 04:55 PM.
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