'11 2SS Convertible Spkr/Amp Install

[yellowcamaro11]

Here's some pics and info on my install...

What I had:
Boston Acoustics System

What I installed:
Kept stock radio (didn't like any of the replacement options)
New speaker wire (16g front, 14g subs)
XS-Power-D3100 100ah Battery
MS-8 DSP
J L Audio Stealthbox Dual 10"
J L Audio HD1200/1 Amp
J B L 670GTi 6-1/2" Component System
D C Audio DC175.4 1000/4 Amp

This was a pretty expensive system...but it does what I wanted, overpowers the road and wind noise when the top is down.

Rough time estimates I spent on this:
20 - 30 hours in initial research, purchasing, and prep.
40 - 50 hours in install and a few trips to a couple stores for pieces and parts.

From what I noticed in my research, running new wire was an issue for many people because of the connector built into the factory wire loom going to the door. I installed new loom (DLOOM Rubber Door Wire Loom - got from the major online retailer). Removed door. Car side had a rubber knockout already below factory loom. Used step bit to drill hole in door and Dremel to clean it up. This actually wasn't as annoying as I though it would be.

The tweeters did fit in the factory locations. Just had to cut the plastic snaps out of the factory mount and the JBL's are held in with high heat hot glue. Forgot to take pics of this.

I only installed dynamat around speaker areas. I did go pretty much all the way up to window seal, but just on the side with the speaker. Only noticeable rattle (but minimal) I found was in the top with it down; nothing I can do about that...

The new battery fit without any modification. Just new (longer) bolts and I added some foam around the battery so it wasn't rubbing directly on metal. The black cover still sits over the battery compartment but the plastic screw down doesn't screw all the way down since the rod with threads is higher (but still flush with cover) so it's not there anymore.

The instructions that come with the sub/box are pretty reliable/accurate. It takes some work to get the box to line up with the holes in the frame. And don't drill the 1 hole all the way to 1 inch as stated to install side clip or it gets into other holes. I also removed the factory sub completely...with the idea that it allows some airflow into the trunk.

I put spacers under the MS-8 and DC amp to allow air flow. The JL amp had kind of a spacer built into it so there is a little air space under it too. I do need to get additional spacers for the DC amp to get it up a little higher since I ran wires under it...

The MS-8 remote out does have a 1 amp inline fuse to a relay going to the 2 amps and I also soldered in the diode in parallel with the relay coil to protect the MS-8. I physically put the diode in the wiring, didn't try to solder it right on the relay.

I do have some cable management to finish up, probably this weekend. I have yellow wire loom and yellow zip ties for that.

I have ran it hard with the top down at 75mph. Sounds great and vehicle maintains 12 volts without any noticeable voltage fluctuations or dimming of lights.

[yellowcamaro11]

Additional pics...

[beak81champ]

That trunk install looks nice! Good work! Is the door deinstalled and reinstall tough? 2 person job, or could you manage it alone?

[VeeGeeTea]

Good stuff! But that trunk wire management bothers me. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to wires.

[yellowcamaro11]

Originally Posted by VeeGeeTea

Good stuff! But that trunk wire management bothers me. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to wires.

I am not done with the cable management...will finish that up this weekend.

[yellowcamaro11]

Originally Posted by beak81champ

That trunk install looks nice! Good work! Is the door deinstalled and reinstall tough? 2 person job, or could you manage it alone?

I did one door with 2 people and the other by myself. It was easy to drop alone. A little more difficult to put up by myself but doable. I sat it up on the battery box with new battery still inside when it was time to reinstall and put the top bolt in first then the door held itself up.

[beak81champ]

Originally Posted by yellowcamaro11

I did one door with 2 people and the other by myself. It was easy to drop alone. A little more difficult to put up by myself but doable. I sat it up on the battery box with new battery still inside when it was time to reinstall and put the top bolt in first then the door held itself up.

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

[Snoman]

doors....balls man (I simply drill my installs), overall great work and congrats!

[yellowcamaro11]

So...new problem. The stereo in my house sounds like crap now...

[Eli]

Nice install! I guess I'm not the only 2011 Bee getting some buzz this spring. My build is currently all sitting in my bedroom, just waiting to close on my house hopefully by the end of the week and I will be able to tackle it soon.

I'm going with a similar setup, I did get fed up enough with the Head Unit to swap it for the Pioneer 4200 NEX with the PAC install kit.
I'm using a certain not to be named companies dual down firing box with JL 10TW3-D4s. I considered the stealth box but for less money got better speakers, a not quite as sexy box but a shelf to install an amp. On that shelf will be a JL HD 750/1 pushing the subs.

Im mounting a JL XD400/4 in the factory amp location. That will be running 2 ohm (100 rms) feeding my Focal psc somethings up front (gotta look up model number). Passive for now but Ill pull the trigger on the TWK-88 if I think splitting the tweets and mids will help and power them with the other 2 channels. Otherwise I have the rear fill option in the future.

So I probably spent as much time researching as my install will take too. A few questions for you, please don't take them as a critique. I am not a car audio pro by any means and just seeking to gain knowledge.

You went with the hd1200/1 for your subs...I know JL recommends the 600 with that package...reasoning for the larger amp?

I road trip a bit...are you worried about throwing a travel bag in the trunk and listening to the stereo when traveling with your daughter?

My priorities were 1)sound 2)footprint and keeping as much usable space..... All the while smacking myself in the head and telling myself its a convertible, it will never sound as nice as the same equipment in a coupe, so don't blow the bank knowing that diminishing returns will hit much quicker.

Just curious as to what went through your head?

[oslouie]

Originally Posted by Eli

Nice install! I guess I'm not the only 2011 Bee getting some buzz this spring. My build is currently all sitting in my bedroom, just waiting to close on my house hopefully by the end of the week and I will be able to tackle it soon.

I'm going with a similar setup, I did get fed up enough with the Head Unit to swap it for the Pioneer 4200 NEX with the PAC install kit.
I'm using a certain not to be named companies dual down firing box with JL 10TW3-D4s. I considered the stealth box but for less money got better speakers, a not quite as sexy box but a shelf to install an amp. On that shelf will be a JL HD 750/1 pushing the subs.

Im mounting a JL XD400/4 in the factory amp location. That will be running 2 ohm (100 rms) feeding my Focal psc somethings up front (gotta look up model number). Passive for now but Ill pull the trigger on the TWK-88 if I think splitting the tweets and mids will help and power them with the other 2 channels. Otherwise I have the rear fill option in the future.

So I probably spent as much time researching as my install will take too. A few questions for you, please don't take them as a critique. I am not a car audio pro by any means and just seeking to gain knowledge.

You went with the hd1200/1 for your subs...I know JL recommends the 600 with that package...reasoning for the larger amp?

I road trip a bit...are you worried about throwing a travel bag in the trunk and listening to the stereo when traveling with your daughter?

My priorities were 1)sound 2)footprint and keeping as much usable space..... All the while smacking myself in the head and telling myself its a convertible, it will never sound as nice as the same equipment in a coupe, so don't blow the bank knowing that diminishing returns will hit much quicker.

Just curious as to what went through your head?

Due to impedance rise, your substage probably won't see what the amp is rated for so you'll want headroom.

[oslouie]

Can't wait to see what your install looks like OP. I have a whole new setup waiting for my ride just been too busy to put her in.

[Snoman]

Originally Posted by yellowcamaro11

So...new problem. The stereo in my house sounds like crap now...

Start with a good receiver or separates. I went with the Flagship Onkyo receiver, the fabled TX-NR5009, mainly because I stole it from an estate sale NIB for $500.

[Leo72793]

Originally Posted by yellowcamaro11

So...new problem. The stereo in my house sounds like crap now...

more than likely the tuning. Join this FB Group and talk to us here. We all use DSP. chances are frequenies are wrong and slopes are wrong. since you are passive you have to use a 12db slope. if you were active ( no passive xover ) then it can bec changed.