Harmonic balancer re-install help

[ZOOMSS]

So I removed my harmonic balancer in the course of doing a DOD Delete, the harmonic balancer came off relatively easily but now that I'm trying to put it back on I'm running into an issue. I'm using a LS balancer install tool and the balancer will go on about halfway and then stops, its on too tight for me to even budge using a breaker bar sized wrench. Is this normal or is there something going on?

[mmaattppllaayy]

Originally Posted by ZOOMSS

So I removed my harmonic balancer in the course of doing a DOD Delete, the harmonic balancer came off relatively easily but now that I'm trying to put it back on I'm running into an issue. I'm using a LS balancer install tool and the balancer will go on about halfway and then stops, its on too tight for me to even budge using a breaker bar sized wrench. Is this normal or is there something going on?

Your threading the main threads in too far. Screw all the way in then back off a few turns. Then hold the main bolt with a wrench while you tighten the nut

[xc_SS/RS]

What install tool are you using? I used a threaded rod, two big washers and a nut to install my new balancer. Threaded rod went all the way into the crank and then just tighten the nut down to install the balancer.

edited because i don't know hardware terms lol

[Russell James]

It's not as simple as just cranking it on tight. The service manual has the whole procedure. Basically:

Hold the flywheel locked solid with a flywheel holding tool.

Run the balancer in with a balancer install tool to appropriate depth.

Measure crank depth, crank snout should be 2.4mm to 4.4 mm recessed in the balancer.

Using the old crank bolt, tq to 240 lb ft. Now remove and throw the old bolt away.

New bolt:

First pass - 110 lb ft then loosen 360 degrees
Second pass - 59 lb ft

Final pass:
If bolt has a flanged head - 125 degrees using an angle meter
If bolt has a retained rotating washer - 200 degrees using an angle meter

Done, and you did it right.

If not measuring crank snout depth or using an angle meter, it's not being done right, belts wont be aligned.

Before even starting the job, make sure you have - flywheel holder, balancer install tool, tq wrench, angle meter and a new bolt.

If you see somebody just run one on with an impact gun, punch them in the face.

[QUICRNU]

Hahhaha....or throat if you want less bills from the lawsuit payout... throat punch ftw.


I went ARP bolt and glad of it since i ha e been back in there 3 times.

Pic of your tool? Should be turning the nut independant of the bolt.

[christianchevell]

And what the others said and you don't have a harmonic balancer the stock POS is a pulley the engines internally balanced. Unless you spent the $400 like me to limit the damage to the engine from a radical cam well outside the range of the vibrational dampening the stock engine is used too with its weighted pulley. And the bolt of course is a TTY bolt so garbage after torqued once....

[ZOOMSS]

Alright I figured it out, My Proform LS tool I was using is basically a foot long bolt with some washers and a crush bearing to cushion against the pulley, well apparently the bearing is slightly too small in circumference and when I would wrench on it, it was squeezing past the balancer and pushing up against the snout preventing it from going further on to the crank. I took it off and the balancer then wrenched into place with little effort. So lesson is if you buy the Proform LS balancer tool, rearrange the order in which the bearing and washers go on the bolt before you use it.

[Russell James]

Preform = Taiwan.... pitch it before it snaps and leaves a real problem on your hands.

The good ones are much more expensive, but that extra $$$$ is well worth it to avoid probs.