Heat spikes in coolant temperature. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

LitosZX · 08-11-2017, 04:20 PM

I did the coolant flush (correctly) less than 5000 miles precisely because the car would heat up specifically when its not in motion.

The fans do turn on at 228* F and sometimes the temperature decreases back to its normal temperatures. ( I also help it by turning on the heater at full blast)

Other times especially in traffic it may continue to rise all the way up to 240*+ temperatures even with the fan on. (sometimes even reaching 250*).

however if the car begins to move it immediately returns to temperatures below 210* and above 195*.

I live in South Florida where weve been having 95* heats

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Synner · 08-11-2017, 04:27 PM

Replace the thermostat and check for air in the system.

LitosZX · 08-11-2017, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

Replace the thermostat and check for air in the system.

I was considering getting the 160* Tstat. How can I check for air in the system?

hammdo · 08-11-2017, 10:39 PM

Thermostat will only open sooner, once the car gets hot, its hot. The best thing to do is have a winter/summer mix. I run 90/10 Distilled/Dexcool and WaterWetter in the summer (If I race its 100% distilled and 2 bottles of water wetter).

I can tell you for certain, the 160° will not help you when it gets hot out -- I have it and I'm FI. Its only real purpose is to open sooner -- that is it. It does not mean you're coolant will be 160° while running.

You should lift the front of the car in order to 'burp' any air in the system. I actually 'milk' the upper and lower hose once the t-stat opens. Also, turn on the heat to max so the coolant can circulate through the heater core. It may take several times, but it will purge the air.

Best bet, in the heat, water is the 'only' thing that cools the best, nothing is better at it.

Right now, since I've been racing, I'm 100% distilled and 2 bottles of Water Wetter -- my temps in traffic (stop and go) have pretty much stayed around 206° at its highest -- as long as I don't race ;o)

Also, if you can, modify the tune to have the fans start @ 192° (24%) and adjust from there. THAT does mean, you're warranty (if any is left) WILL BE VOID -- if you're out of warranty, then, that could also help you're cooling.

Believe me, here in Texas, it gets HOT too (was over 100° the last couple of days -- and we may hit 106° tomorrow in my area!)

-Don

Synner · 08-11-2017, 10:41 PM

Gotta burp it. Since you drain it for the t-stat you get to do it all over again. Install the T-stat. Then take the upper radiator hose off at the radiator and use it to fill into the engine block until overflowing. Then fill the radiator. Run it up to temp and then squeeze the radiator tubes hard over and over to push out any bubbles. Fill as needed as it cycles the water through. When you fill purely from the radiator it traps air behind the t-stat in the block.

hammdo · 08-11-2017, 10:47 PM

Here are my fan settings (from HP Tuners):

-Don

LitosZX · 08-14-2017, 01:20 AM

Awesome gentleman, seriously much appreciated for the input. I will do this this week.

TheFlyingBananaSS · 08-14-2017, 03:44 PM

Mine runs consistent at 190°

08-11-2017, 04:20 PM	#1
LitosZX Drives: '10 2SS/RS Cyber Gray Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 117	Heat spikes in coolant temperature. I did the coolant flush (correctly) less than 5000 miles precisely because the car would heat up specifically when its not in motion. The fans do turn on at 228* F and sometimes the temperature decreases back to its normal temperatures. ( I also help it by turning on the heater at full blast) Other times especially in traffic it may continue to rise all the way up to 240+ temperatures even with the fan on. (sometimes even reaching 250). however if the car begins to move it immediately returns to temperatures below 210* and above 195. I live in South Florida where weve been having 95 heats Any and all help is greatly appreciated. __________________ M6, 376ci, LS3 Top End, Holley High Ram, A little compression.

08-11-2017, 10:39 PM	#4
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,709 View My Garage	Thermostat will only open sooner, once the car gets hot, its hot. The best thing to do is have a winter/summer mix. I run 90/10 Distilled/Dexcool and WaterWetter in the summer (If I race its 100% distilled and 2 bottles of water wetter). I can tell you for certain, the 160° will not help you when it gets hot out -- I have it and I'm FI. Its only real purpose is to open sooner -- that is it. It does not mean you're coolant will be 160° while running. You should lift the front of the car in order to 'burp' any air in the system. I actually 'milk' the upper and lower hose once the t-stat opens. Also, turn on the heat to max so the coolant can circulate through the heater core. It may take several times, but it will purge the air. Best bet, in the heat, water is the 'only' thing that cools the best, nothing is better at it. Right now, since I've been racing, I'm 100% distilled and 2 bottles of Water Wetter -- my temps in traffic (stop and go) have pretty much stayed around 206° at its highest -- as long as I don't race ;o) Also, if you can, modify the tune to have the fans start @ 192° (24%) and adjust from there. THAT does mean, you're warranty (if any is left) WILL BE VOID -- if you're out of warranty, then, that could also help you're cooling. Believe me, here in Texas, it gets HOT too (was over 100° the last couple of days -- and we may hit 106° tomorrow in my area!) -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

08-11-2017, 10:47 PM	#6
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,709 View My Garage	Here are my fan settings (from HP Tuners): -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

08-14-2017, 01:20 AM	#7
LitosZX Drives: '10 2SS/RS Cyber Gray Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 117	Awesome gentleman, seriously much appreciated for the input. I will do this this week. __________________ M6, 376ci, LS3 Top End, Holley High Ram, A little compression.

08-14-2017, 03:44 PM	#8
TheFlyingBananaSS Evil Genius of Chevrolet Drives: 2017 Z06, 2019 XTS, 2013 SS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: New York Posts: 3,262	Mine runs consistent at 190° __________________ GPI SS2 VVT cam, ECS Novi 1500 supercharger, Corsa Extreme, Detroit Speed and BMR suspension, Circle D triple disc, Melling oil pump, LS2 chain tensioner, ATI 10% UD, DSX E85 kit, High Energy coils, BTR springs, LS2 Lifter trays, Titanium retainers, hardened push rods, FIC 1000 injectors, ZL1 pump, Mighty Mouse catch can, AEM gauges, Tial BOV, Richmond 3.91 gears, Custom gauge bezels, Speed Engineering headers, Stainless Works HF cats, DSX Aux pump, 710rwhp on E85.

08-11-2017, 04:27 PM	#2
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	Replace the thermostat and check for air in the system.

08-11-2017, 10:41 PM	#5
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,542	Gotta burp it. Since you drain it for the t-stat you get to do it all over again. Install the T-stat. Then take the upper radiator hose off at the radiator and use it to fill into the engine block until overflowing. Then fill the radiator. Run it up to temp and then squeeze the radiator tubes hard over and over to push out any bubbles. Fill as needed as it cycles the water through. When you fill purely from the radiator it traps air behind the t-stat in the block.