BC Racing coilovers alignment issues

[Captain77]

Ok, I just had a shop in Pensacola fl install my coilovers and they told me the they outsource for alignments and the place they used machine was down, so I told them I will take care of it my self. I went to two different shops and they both told be in the current low state at the max adjustments the alignments are still off and I’m killing my tires I literally already can see bits of rubber in my wheel wells. The shop said they lowered the front 1.75 and the rear 1.5 but I believe it’s much lower then that.i really like the way it looks but is there anything on the market to fix this issue. See pictures. Thanks for any help

[1Coopgt]

I don't no much about Lowered suspension but I can tell you with it slammed like that I can understand why they can't align your suspension. Tell them to raise it about an inch front and rear and try again. Freaking morons. With it that low you need camber plates.

Or I'm totally wrong.

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by 1Coopgt

I don't no much about Lowered suspension but I can tell you with it slammed like that I can understand why they can't align your suspension. Tell them to raise it about an inch front and rear and try again. Freaking morons. With it that low you need camber plates.

Or I'm totally wrong.

I’m pretty sure your right, I told them I only wanted it lowered 1.5 all around,this looks much lower than that. It’s almost like they just slapped them on and here you go. I hope they fix it monday because I have to go out of town Tuesday. Do they make the plates for front and rear and are they an easy installed because I really like the look but not at the expensive on my expensive tires. Thanks for any help

[hesster]

That is a little low, but not impossible to get it aligned properly with a good shop willing to take the time to do it correctly. I also run BC C/O's, BUT I did add Moreno Camber plates to allow for caster adjustment. So, you may want to have it raised a bit with a number of spins on the C/O collar nuts, and try a alignment again. My dealer took 2 hours to get mine exactly where I wanted it, but much of the time was tweaking the camber plates dialing in the trade off between Caster and Camber. Lots of Camber is great for handling, but obviously hard on tire wear.
My Specs:
Frt Cm = -.9/-1.0
Frt Cs = 7.6/7/7 (more than stock target of 5.3 to 6.8 is a good thing)
Frt Toe = 0.07/0.07
Rr Camber = -0.7/-0.6 (cam bolts just about maxed out)
Rr Toe = 0.01/0.01

Note how all R/L results are within 0.1 degree or less! The engine bay pic showing the camber plates was pre-alignment, they are rotated as necessary and the locking bolts indexed to dial in caster.

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by hesster

That is a little low, but not impossible to get it aligned properly with a good shop willing to take the time to do it correctly. I also run BC C/O's, BUT I did add Moreno Camber plates to allow for caster adjustment. So, you may want to have it raised a bit with a number of spins on the C/O collar nuts, and try a alignment again. My dealer took 2 hours to get mine exactly where I wanted it, but much of the time was tweaking the camber plates dialing in the trade off between Caster and Camber. Lots of Camber is great for handling, but obviously hard on tire wear.
My Specs:
Frt Cm = -.09/-1.0
Frt Cs = 7.6/7/7 (more than stock target of 5.3 to 6.8 is a good thing)
Frt Toe = 0.07/0.07
Rr Camber = -0.7/-0.6 (cam bolts just about maxed out)
Rr Toe = 0.01/0.01
Note how all R/L results are within 0.1 degree or less! The engine bay pic showing the camber plates was pre-alignment, they are rotated as necessary and the locking bolts indexed to dial in caster.

What does it take to install the camber /caster plates? Is it as labor intensive as installing the coilovers, if so I may just have them raise it one inch and then go and have my alignment done. I really like the way it looks but I’m killing my expensive tires

[hesster]

The camber plates are pure bolt on for the bc coil overs, and to me worth the investment. But, cheaper route is simply to raise the car first so the tire clearance looks like mine and get a good alignment shop or most Chevy dealers and demand the specs and results you want. Research the various threads on the site for “best” alignment spec targets. Mine are real close to ideal for a street car.

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by hesster

The camber plates are pure bolt on for the bc coil overs, and to me worth the investment. But, cheaper route is simply to raise the car first so the tire clearance looks like mine and get a good alignment shop or most Chevy dealers and demand the specs and results you want. Research the various threads on the site for “best” alignment spec targets. Mine are real close to ideal for a street car.

What did your plates cost front and rear?

[JMT]

I lowered mine 2" and yes you need the camber plates and due to the wide tires i run i also needed to take the time to roll the inner lip on the fenders. After I cut the front tire to the chord. My mistake/lesson but that was 45k mile ago and no issues since, good luck!

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by JMT

I lowered mine 2" and yes you need the camber plates and due to the wide tires i run i also needed to take the time to roll the inner lip on the fenders. After I cut the front tire to the chord. My mistake/lesson but that was 45k mile ago and no issues since, good luck!

Do you have a picture so I can see what the two inch drop looks like. I told the shop I only wanted 1.5 all around but I believe they took it down more like 2- 2.5. They should have know are at least told me I would need camber plates to go that low, I’m not happy at all with them. Taking it back Monday to have it raised at least an inch so I can get it raised aligned then later I will get the plates and take it down to where I want it. All for tires are tucked

[Synner]

Bits of rubber don't come off from an alignment, you're likely scraping tire on something. I've had as much negative camber in the rear and -3.5 in front and nothing on my tire falls off. You will only experience increased wear on the outer edge and subpar handling from positive camber in front. Something else is wrong if tire parts are flying.

You can buy extended range adjusters for the rear which will help.
https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...mber-87430.htm

The front can have the holes slotted slightly but your car is just slammed. Camber plates just replace the top piece of the strut to tower and are a 20 minute install if you know what you're doing. They can help with camber but not toe. The guy shouldn't have an issue with toe up front even though he did.

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by Synner

Bits of rubber don't come off from an alignment, you're likely scraping tire on something. I've had as much negative camber in the rear and -3.5 in front and nothing on my tire falls off. You will only experience increased wear on the outer edge and subpar handling from positive camber in front. Something else is wrong if tire parts are flying.

You can buy extended range adjusters for the rear which will help.
https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...mber-87430.htm

The front can have the holes slotted slightly but your car is just slammed. Camber plates just replace the top piece of the strut to tower and are a 20 minute install if you know what you're doing. They can help with camber but not toe. The guy shouldn't have an issue with toe up front even though he did.

In your opinion or experience if I only have it lowered to 1.5 below factory will I need camber plates to get a good street performance alignment? Because that’s really all i want.

[Synner]

The rear adjustment bolts would still be beneficial and ease adjustment otherwise range is limited but they're not mandatory for a street alignment at 1.5". If you want a drag alignment for high hp or strip use you will want them. Fronts don't need anything at 1.5".

[Captain77]

Originally Posted by Synner

The rear adjustment bolts would still be beneficial and ease adjustment otherwise range is limited but they're not mandatory for a street alignment at 1.5". If you want a drag alignment for high hp or strip use you will want them. Fronts don't need anything at 1.5".

Can you post a link for a vendor that sales them the rear adjustment bolts, I am new to this, thank you. I didn’t think this would be such a hassle, the shop that did my coilovers should have told me all this, I mean they are suppose to be the experts. Everyone is telling me it seems like they just slapped them on and here you go, they should have known bringing it that low I would have alignment issues. Thank you so much for all the help. Firstly I asked them to only lower 1.5 from factory but I’m tucking so I know they went way lower. What happened to getting what you paid, ask for.

[Synner]

I linked them above on phastek.