Brake bleed question

[ss_redrum]

I've read through threads but I want to make sure I have the correct information.

When bleeding the breaks I do not have to bleed the clutch correct?
DOT 4 fluid?
Each caliper has 2 bleeder valves?
Anything else?

[GraySS2011]

Originally Posted by ss_redrum

I've read through threads but I want to make sure I have the correct information.

When bleeding the breaks I do not have to bleed the clutch correct?
DOT 4 fluid?
Each caliper has 2 bleeder valves?
Anything else?

I did my brakes a few years ago. I only bled the brakes. Bleed the inside bleeder valve first, then the outer valve. I started with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and worked my way in. Easy job, just don't let the master reservoir run dry. Keep filling it.

[frankwjr]

use this...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

once the reservoir is clean AND since they share said same, why would you want to pull all that clutch crap into the brakes by not performing this first?

dot 3/4 what ever floats your boat(DOT 4 syn) and yes bleed inner then outer BUT R/R then L/F then L/R the R/F...please look it up, our brakes are in an x-pattern...NOT front-rear per conventional thinkin.

I used a hand held vac pump to bleed approx. 1oz from ea bleeder...once complete take a careful test drive and good to go...

for the ABS make some safe panic stops to get it cyclin and then repeat the above...

during the summer when I am drag racin I do the clutch fluid exchange monthly or when dirty...anyone say 7k+ shifts at will?

good luck OP and be safe....peace

[christianchevell]

Stock you have DOT 3 to upgrade is to go DOT 4 with flushing entire system as they are not compatible.

I recommend as to everyone to install a separate clutch reservoir which can be bought from diygen5.com or gen5diy... from a Holden gt...sure the deal is its hard to get the old hose off and the new one on use..some fluid for lube and some pliers carefully then you will stop the cross contamination of the brake fluid from the clutch which does pick up particulates and heat more and discolor. Blocking off the old hose bib on the side I use a heavy cap with a small hose clamp for sure fire seal....

You could just take it to a tire store to avoid the PITA laying on the ground to upgrade to DOT 4.

And BTW I have a aftermarket clutch with remote bleeder that if bleeding my clutch I still require a helper, the clutch though itself only has like 6-8 ounces in its lines and the slave. I picked the best aftermarket twin disc that drives stock I believe maybe someday you may want to upgrade to the LT1s Monster clutch..good for a true 700 rwhp/trq.

It does not clank or rattle or make noise or feel different than stock unlike competitors noisy crap that can be so annoying and Embarassing. The deal is Monster makes a billet aluminum throw out bearing support which is crucial to upgrade on the slave as ours stock are plastic and melt in high heat racing course applications or when the clutch gets stuck if your cursed with that some day. And my stock SS slave works with that clutch, its really rare to find better aftermarket clutches not requiring new slaves by design, I also use the steel flywheel from monster for momentum as I daily drive.

And good luck to you!!! I just yesterday did a Zero gauge wire bypass of the battery post under the hood to see if it helps and so far does appear to help starting slightly due to resistance of all the connections coming off that terminal. I simply got about 2 foot of the wire and cut bare spots with the battery disconnected at the appropriate areas and then weaved the wire around the bare wire and taped odd..... Zero gauge I made five bundles to weave together ..... I am going to see if over time with my starter heat stroke even with a thermal blanket on the starter ...... IF it always starts quick enough not to throw the damn stabilllitrac.TC and such on and go safe mode from a slow start when the engine is hot hot.....

A common problem, a couple guys did this bypass, so I had nothing to loose, I have a new starter and battery and only 30k on the odometer...almost wish I had wrapped the headers, definitely will do more than removing some of the cowl seal...like a hood vent either zl1 or hex..... Next big work to my car I am going to have to wrap headers..... old chevys used to eat starters sometimes they would only last a year or two due to headers...here its just heat stroke. I just have to lift the hood and let it cool down a little....or drive until I can let it cool down and restart later to clear the CEL crap on the dash/ limp.......or get it to start fast enough not to do the super slow start.

If you have never changed out your brake fluid with the combined reservoir ....flush it........... your overdue from the clutch contamination, I change out the fluid in my little clutch reservoir every month or so due to yellowing and dust in it with just a syphon bulb/syringe and then pump up the clutch if by myself and after like 60 pumps change it again.....

[Russell James]

All Dot 4 is not created equal. There is some real cheap crap out there. Get some good Motul RBF. Castrol SRF is tops for racing, but requires frequent annual changes. Motul is real good and can stay in a couple years.

Yes, need to bleed all 8 bleeders. Start at the RR. You'll be on jack stands... so after going around all four corners once... pump the clutch a bunch of times. Start the car a couple times. Pump the clutch some more. Run it up to a little speed and hit the brakes firmly. Up in the air, with the fronts not moving, this will cycle the ABS. The key on also cycles the abs. So now... the clutch and ABS has cycled several times... shut off engine... rebleed all four corners/8bleeders again. You are done at each corner when clear new fluid is coming out of each bleeder.

I have a pressure bleeder. But to be honest I still prefer just having a helper pump the pedal.

[shibbs]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Stock you have DOT 3 to upgrade is to go DOT 4 with flushing entire system as they are not compatible.

Wrong, wrong, wrong.
Dot 3, Dot 4, and Dot 5.1 are compatible. Dot 5 is silicone based, and is not compatible.

Also worth knowing - Dot 4 doesn't absorb as much water as Dot 3, so if you're not going to flush regularly, don't use Dot 4.