Stablitrak Message

[STINGER BEE]

Hi Guys
Can you help me determine what is going on with my 2010 Camaro SS.The message came on and the car wouldn't start ,gauges were erratic all over the place.
I replaced the battery last July,2017,I took it to a mechanic and he said I had a dead battery.New battery installed,started right up,drove it for a couple hours and shut it off,to see if this would happen again which it did.So I guess it wasn't the battery.Have any experience this problem,kind of makes me think something like a sensor is getting hot and cause this problem.I have read on here where some owners ,had the computer re-programed and solved the problem.Is there something else I should be looking at before I take it to the dealer.
Appreciate any feedback
Thanks

[Gordo-D]

It could be your starter motor, it draws a very large amount of current on start up, also I would have your alternator tested first.
Bad ground connection, check the ground wires especially in the trunk.

[Rock-It Man]

So it's been a year since you replaced the battery. And what have you been doing in the meantime? Were you driving the car regularly? If not, were you using a battery tender? Do you race? How are your brake pads doing?

Causes of stabi-track warning, beginning with most likely:

Low battery voltage
Drag racing without switching to competitive mode or turning off all nannies
Damaged wheel speed sensor wiring or sensor itself
Brake pads worn down to metal

I have encountered all of the above on various GM cars.

PS: Early build 2010s have a TBS to replace undersized battery cables. Did your dealer check your car for TSBs that weren't completed?

[STINGER BEE]

Car is stored over the winter months ,battery maintained by a batt. tender, never been raced,haven't checked the brakes lately but would the brakes,wheel speed sensor cause it not to start.I can see a low batt. voltage cause the message to come on.

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

So it's been a year since you replaced the battery. And what have you been doing in the meantime? Were you driving the car regularly? If not, were you using a battery tender? Do you race? How are your brake pads doing?

Causes of stabi-track warning, beginning with most likely:

Low battery voltage
Drag racing without switching to competitive mode or turning off all nannies
Damaged wheel speed sensor wiring or sensor itself
Brake pads worn down to metal

I have encountered all of the above on various GM cars.

PS: Early build 2010s have a TBS to replace undersized battery cables. Did your dealer check your car for TSBs that weren't completed?

[hesster]

Same thing happened to me on my 2010 SS.
It very well may be one or more throttle codes were set - P0122, P0223, P2135, and P2176 which can cause a No-Start. A CEL may or may not be present. A scanner can detect and clear these or other codes (most Auto stores can read them for you). MOST of the time it is low battery voltage at some point, as the TPS is real damn sensitive to this..
So if it still will not start first try mashing the Pedal to the floor 5 times to see if it will start. Ensure the TPS connector is seated tightly to the Throttle Body. Then try to start it. If it will not start, or starts and dies, then ensure battery voltage is fully charged and correct, pull a battery cable off for an hour, and ensure all connections are all clean and good. Use Di-Electric or similar grease on all connections. Then check to see if there is any carbon build up around the Throttle Body blade, pull it and clean it if necessary (Battery disconnected when disconnecting ANYTHING!). Clean and reconnect the TPS harness at the TB, reconnect the battery, key the car on to accessory position, and if you have a scanner look for and clear any codes. If no scanner, just try to start and drive the car so it can "relearn" the TPS.
I have found that accessories like Halo's, LEDs, big audio amps, etc can siphon off battery voltage to the point were it may impact the TPS. Especially when the power taps are off any control modules or wrong fuses. For example, as I found, leaving the Halos and scanner bar lights on for hours during car shows pulls the battery voltage down. I have actually put a separate battery in the trunk to power my bling accessories, and simply recharge it when I get home, and also carry a SCT-X4 in my trunk if I have to clear codes during any outings on the fly. To avoid the hassle of pulling out the trunk battery cover and junk I ran separate charging taps for trickle charging on either battery (lower left is plugged in the Pic for the main battery, center of the Pic is the Tap for the separate battery). I always leave the trickle charger on the main battery when I am not driving it.
Overkill? Yeah, but peace of mind.

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by STINGER BEE

Car is stored over the winter months ,battery maintained by a batt. tender, never been raced,haven't checked the brakes lately but would the brakes,wheel speed sensor cause it not to start.I can see a low batt. voltage cause the message to come on.

Got it.

What about the battery cable TSB?

[STINGER BEE]

Are you referring to the Recall on the Positive Battery Cable ,where it could come in contact with the exhaust system?

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

Got it.

What about the battery cable TSB?

[STINGER BEE]

Thanks Bud,for all the info. I will check it out.
Cheers

Originally Posted by hesster

Same thing happened to me on my 2010 SS.
It very well may be one or more throttle codes were set - P0122, P0223, P2135, and P2176 which can cause a No-Start. A CEL may or may not be present. A scanner can detect and clear these or other codes (most Auto stores can read them for you). MOST of the time it is low battery voltage at some point, as the TPS is real damn sensitive to this..
So if it still will not start first try mashing the Pedal to the floor 5 times to see if it will start. Ensure the TPS connector is seated tightly to the Throttle Body. Then try to start it. If it will not start, or starts and dies, then ensure battery voltage is fully charged and correct, pull a battery cable off for an hour, and ensure all connections are all clean and good. Use Di-Electric or similar grease on all connections. Then check to see if there is any


carbon build up around the Throttle Body blade, pull it and clean it if necessary (Battery disconnected when disconnecting ANYTHING!). Clean and reconnect the TPS harness at the TB, reconnect the battery, key the car on to accessory position, and if you have a scanner look for and clear any codes. If no scanner, just try to start and drive the car so it can "relearn" the TPS.
I have found that accessories like Halo's, LEDs, big audio amps, etc can siphon off battery voltage to the point were it may impact the TPS. Especially when the power taps are off any control modules or wrong fuses. For example, as I found, leaving the Halos and scanner bar lights on for hours during car shows pulls the battery voltage down. I have actually put a separate battery in the trunk to power my bling accessories, and simply recharge it when I get home, and also carry a SCT-X4 in my trunk if I have to clear codes during any outings on the fly. To avoid the hassle of pulling out the trunk battery cover and junk I ran separate charging taps for trickle charging on either battery (lower left is plugged in the Pic for the main battery, center of the Pic is the Tap for the separate battery). I always leave the trickle charger on the main battery when I am not driving it.
Overkill? Yeah, but peace of mind.

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by STINGER BEE

Are you referring to the Recall on the Positive Battery Cable ,where it could come in contact with the exhaust system?

I thought there was TSB about the too small wire gage on early build 2010 Camaros. A larger gage was needed for less voltage drop in the long cable from the trunk to the engine compartment?

But now I can't find it. So maybe I was thinking of the recall?

[Dragonman]

Not certain I should bring this up, kinda hi-jacking this thread but, larger gauge wire, by itself, will not correct voltage drop. The larger the conductor the more resistance it has to current flow. Resistance is directly proportional to current and both are inversely proportional to voltage. Put another way, the more of R & I you have the less of E there will be. I know this sounds contrary to Ohm's law, bear with me.

If it helps you can think of electricity this way, Voltage (E) is the pressure behind moving the electrons from one atom to another. Amperage (I) is the size of the pipe and determines how many atoms you can move electrons between at any given time. Resistance (R) is anything that restricts the flow of electrons.

Since, as relates to the starter motor circuit, the battery has a constant, unloaded voltage output and finite amperage capacity, the smaller wire was not capable of moving enough electrons, overheated and began melting things along the circuit path when the starter was "opened" to allow current flow. With that in mind, the battery is capable of providing 700+- amps at 12+- volts. The original cable wasn't big enough to move that many electrons, which I affectionately refer to as "killywinkles", but the battery kept trying to push that many through it anyway when the starter, and any other "resistor" being powered up at the same time, asked for it.

Now, remember when I mentioned the proportional relationships, The more resistance you have the more amperage will be required and more voltage will be needed to push it. This statement is consistent with Ohm's law.


A motor that needs 2 amps at 100 volts to turn only needs 1 amp at 200 volts, thereabouts. Have a look at any multi-voltage device's data plate, this is an example of what I meant by voltage being inversely affected by resistance and amperage or vice versa.


What happens to material when it's heated? It expands. So, the undersized wire started getting hot, expanded the space between the atoms creating more resistance which in turn required more ampacity and started pulling the voltage from the battery, or alternator, down, which in turn caused even higher levels of resistance and amperage to occur on the circuit, spiraling until something overheats to failure.


dont mind me, paddin' my post count lookin' for a promotion.