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Old 09-13-2019, 02:07 AM   #1
EJSS
 
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Is my 0-60 right for stock?

I have a 2010 camaro ss l99 auto, stock except for 1le rims with wider tires and muffler delete.

I ran a few 0-60 runs at 81°F and 84% humidity (I live in New Orleans so this is normal weather at night) and I got around 5.6 - 5.8 seconds every time. I video recorded the speedometer and then used editing software to trim the video to start right as the speedometer switched from 0 to 1 and end as it just hit 60. I got a lot of 5.7s.

Does this seem right to you guys? This seems slow to me, even for less-than-perfect conditions on the road. I've seen threads in here where guys with the v6 5th gen camaros were getting 5.3s stock. That would imply that a v6 is faster than a v8 which literally makes no sense whatsoever.
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:57 AM   #2
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Sooooooo how familiar are you with your "reduced output" L99 with it's lower compression and smaller cam? Yes, it's slow and the car is heavy. I had a 2015 and when I took it to a dyno day with my LS3 buddies, I was disgusted. It is what it is!
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Old 09-13-2019, 03:14 AM   #3
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I understand what you're saying but still, the car is rated for 4.7ish and there are guys on this forum who have gotten in the high 4s and low 5s with stock l99s in similar weather conditions. I'm just wondering why I'm not at least able to get in the low 5s.
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Old 09-13-2019, 05:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rshelar View Post
Sooooooo how familiar are you with your "reduced output" L99 with it's lower compression and smaller cam? Yes, it's slow and the car is heavy. I had a 2015 and when I took it to a dyno day with my LS3 buddies, I was disgusted. It is what it is!
@gringo's head just exploded
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Old 09-13-2019, 05:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJSS View Post
I have a 2010 camaro ss l99 auto, stock except for 1le rims with wider tires and muffler delete.

I ran a few 0-60 runs at 81°F and 84% humidity (I live in New Orleans so this is normal weather at night) and I got around 5.6 - 5.8 seconds every time. I video recorded the speedometer and then used editing software to trim the video to start right as the speedometer switched from 0 to 1 and end as it just hit 60. I got a lot of 5.7s.

Does this seem right to you guys? This seems slow to me, even for less-than-perfect conditions on the road. I've seen threads in here where guys with the v6 5th gen camaros were getting 5.3s stock. That would imply that a v6 is faster than a v8 which literally makes no sense whatsoever.
Yes the v6 is faster you wasted your money on a v8 it is what it is.
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Old 09-13-2019, 05:54 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by EJSS View Post
I understand what you're saying but still, the car is rated for 4.7ish and there are guys on this forum who have gotten in the high 4s and low 5s with stock l99s in similar weather conditions. I'm just wondering why I'm not at least able to get in the low 5s.
An app that uses GPS would be more accurate
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Last edited by StingrayblueSS; 09-13-2019 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:24 AM   #7
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Are you running premium fuel? The GM times are with premium fueI I'm pretty sure.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:57 AM   #8
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As mikeman suggested, you might do the 5/20 fuse pull with only premium fuel in the tank and see if that helps. Other than that, how much heavier are your wider wheel/tire combo than your stock setup? Rotating mass can plague a car pretty well if you're added rotating mass. The muffler delete won't do anything for or against your time as the factory catback flows pretty well already and the temps will hurt it. My Camaro club recently had a track night at the local drag strip and a 2011 Camaro running a BTR stage 4 cam with the appropriately matched stall, head work, etc. ran in the mid 12's. It was hot outside, he drove the car to the track, and almost immediately hopped in the staging lanes, but nobody was really setting the world on fire due to the heat and humidity.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:31 AM   #9
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Thanks for the advice, the battery was disconnected for a few days recently and there has never been anything but 93 octane shell fuel in it for the last few years. The tires and wheesl are the same exact one on the ss 1le and zl1 1le so I dont think that's the problem, but I'm no expert obviously. It's got a little over 50,000 miles now so maybe I just need to do a tune-up (fuel injector cleaning, spark plugs, etc) and try again in cooler weather.

Also, I used 2 differnet GPS apps a few months ago and on one app I was getting an average of about 4.8 seconds, which I think is wrong, and in the other app I was getting an average of about 5.3, which I also dont trust. I dont trust the apps because when I go by the speedometer, my times are so much slower. I feel like I should trust the speedometer more than phone GPS apps. But if the speedometer is not to be trusted than maybe I am wrong here. I just feel like if I clip the video the way I did by clipping to the the millisecond the needle moves from 0 to 1 and stop the video the millisecond the needle changes from 59 to 60 that should be accurate.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:40 AM   #10
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If you're going off of the speedometer, are you using a stop watch to time the 0-60? Don't forget to take into account human error on the stop watch. You may be close on the throttle hit, but you could be off on the click of the finish time. Additionally, I've noticed my center display lags a few mph behind the speedometer gauge on hard launches. For example it will increase in 3ish mph increments vs. single mph increments. Finally, are you doing the 0-60 with traction control on? That could be slowing you down some if the car senses slippage of the tires. It will actually pull power causing slower 0-60 times.
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:07 AM   #11
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You make some good points pyroguy, however I have considered most of these already. The way I use the speedometer is a method that others have used for other performance cars and seems like a trusted method for the most part. This is what I did:
1. Put car in sport (S) mode (not paddle shifters)
2. Press traction control button twice to go into stabilitrac competitive mode.
3. Press record and point the camera at speeometer
4. Jam down the accelerator pedal from idle, modulating just a tiny bit to avoid wheel spin in the very beginning.
5. Upload the video of the speedometer to PC and use editing software to clip the video from the moment the needle goes from 0 to 1 and clip the other end of the video the moment the needle touches 60.
6. My 0-60 time is the duration of the clipped video.

Note: I use the needle and not the digital display as I have noticed it lags and increases by 2 or 3.

I think the problem may be my launch, though I feel like the launch is pretty decent
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:27 AM   #12
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Do bolt ons and a tune. Stock the L99 sucks
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Old 09-13-2019, 01:34 PM   #13
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Be sure your tune guy knows what he’s doing. Some jack with how and when the TQ converter locks/unlocks and you’ll be pulling the tranny pretty soon. Your 0-60 time really sucks when it’s on jack stands. : /
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJSS View Post
You make some good points pyroguy, however I have considered most of these already. The way I use the speedometer is a method that others have used for other performance cars and seems like a trusted method for the most part. This is what I did:
1. Put car in sport (S) mode (not paddle shifters)
2. Press traction control button twice to go into stabilitrac competitive mode.
3. Press record and point the camera at speeometer
4. Jam down the accelerator pedal from idle, modulating just a tiny bit to avoid wheel spin in the very beginning.
5. Upload the video of the speedometer to PC and use editing software to clip the video from the moment the needle goes from 0 to 1 and clip the other end of the video the moment the needle touches 60.
6. My 0-60 time is the duration of the clipped video.

Note: I use the needle and not the digital display as I have noticed it lags and increases by 2 or 3.

I think the problem may be my launch, though I feel like the launch is pretty decent
At this point all you did was disable your stabilitrac, what you need to do is HOLD DOWN the button for about 7-10 secs and both lights, traction control AND stabilitrac will light up, then go for it !!! The way you did it the traction control was still engaged.. Try that and see.. Good luck, have fun !!
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