01-18-2020, 01:06 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 1SS BlueRay Metallic Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Missouri (MO)
Posts: 163
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Stall converter....or nah
I drive a automatic 2013 Camaro 1SS. Last May I was able to have GPI install their SS1 VVT cam. One big reason I went with this cam was on their page it was sold as it works well with the factory stall converter. Which it has I've only put roughly 4k miles on the car since the install and no problems no complaints at all. It will buck or surge some at lower rpms cruising through my town at 20 mph coming to a stop. But that seems to have gotten a lot better or maybe I've just gotten used to it. Today one of the techs at the local Chevy dealership told me I should have a converter installed that's the reason for the bucking and will burn my transmission up. Not to discredit either side I would just like to think I could trust GPI more than this small town Chevy tech. is this something i should have done to my car? Or even if my car doesn't "need" it is it something that could improve performance and or health of my car if I had it done?
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01-18-2020, 01:08 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Wichita,KS
Posts: 605
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Stall that bad boy!! You wont regret it.
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2011 Camaro 2SS, 6.0 iron block forged bottom end, Dart heads, BTR intake, Huron twin turbo kit, Summit stage 3 twin turbo cam, Circle D stage 4 6L90, 3800 FTI converter. BMR suspension, Viking coil overs, Fore triple pump fuel system.
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01-18-2020, 05:28 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 convertible 2ss/rs Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 971
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But dont over stall it, or you wil be losing rather than winning races
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01-18-2020, 10:08 PM | #4 |
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A stalled converter is a good mod for an automatic, I have a Circle D 3200, and it shaved 3.5 tenths off my 1/8th mile.
The cam you have from GPI is however designed to work with the factory converter. I would contact GPI and explain your issues with them. The person at the dealership is giving you bad information. Heat is what kills automatic transmissions. When you are driving at lower RPM's you aren't generating a lot of heat with the stock converter. If you had a stalled converter you would be, because it would be slipping. Your car has a transmission temp gauge on the cluster in front of the shifter. Optimally, you want this to stay below 185*. You can add a transmission cooler to keep the temperature down. I would just contact GPI. Your tune may need to be adjusted.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. |
01-18-2020, 10:34 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2013 1SS BlueRay Metallic Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Missouri (MO)
Posts: 163
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Joe M tyvm such a great post and peace of mind. I will add a converter to my list for sure. But I all ready had a few mods I had my heart sat on for this year. I guess I should also add the gauge cluster mine didn't come with it . I should be ready for a new tune anyway within a couple months so I'll most likely leave GPI alone. It's winter weather on the reg here in MO so my maro is spending most of its days in the garage anyway
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01-18-2020, 10:58 PM | #6 |
LSx FTW!!!
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: TN
Posts: 772
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I went with a Circle D single disc 3200-3400 stall on my TSP VVT 3.2 CAI+Scoop, heads, cam, exhaust, E85 setup when I was n/a.
I was worried having the stall that high would make daily driveability suck. I was surprised once I drove it because it still drives good on the street and it feels like it delivers the power really smooth. It ran 11.7 in the 1/4 with an all season Continental DWS 09's on stock rims and stock size, with traction control on leaving at idle. Since I added the blower, I went with the same stall, but now have a triple disc, ctsv 6L90 and aluminum 1 piece driveshaft. New track times to come soon!
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2010 2SS RS A6 781rwhp on E85
Stage 2 ProCharger D1X Circle D 3400 Triple Disc Kooks Jet Hot Headers Kooks Full 3in exhaust Trick Flow GenX 255's Polished PAC .660's & Ti-retainers TSP VVT 3.2 cam kit w/DoD Delete Smith Bro's Trunnion kit AEM X-Series OBDII Widebands FIC ID1300x Injectors GM ZL1 High Output Fuel Pump DSX Tuning Flex Sensor DSX Auxiliary Fuel System Tim King Stage 4 Max Effort CTSV 6L90 DSS 1 piece aluminum driveshaft JRE 6L80E / 6L90E Dipstick NGK Iridium IX spark plugs #7 heat range Mighty Mouse Camaro 5 Wild w/-12an and Billet Black HP Tuners VCM Suite |
01-19-2020, 11:53 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I wouldn't leave GPI alone, I would contact them and explain your issues. I don't have a GPI cam, yet, but from the people I know who have one at my local dragstrip, and all the people on this forum who have used their product, they offer fantastic products and excellent customer service. Adding a converter with the current cam you have may not be a good idea, as your current cam is designed for the stock converter. Again I would talk to Ryan, or someone else @GPI. They will be able to tell you best what you should do. You mentioned "other mods" but on GPI's website, it states that the SS1 VVT is designed for a stock converter, and MIMIMAL mods. I would call them to find out what these "MINIMAL Mods" consist of, and what can be done about the current drivability issue with your car. https://gwatneyperformance.com/product/l99-vvt-cam/ I'm sure they can give you the best information on what your course of action should be.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. |
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01-19-2020, 08:16 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2013 1SS BlueRay Metallic Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Missouri (MO)
Posts: 163
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Joe M I gotcha I do understand and you are very helpful. I do understand and not going with a stall.
I do REALLY love GPI's products and customer support. After the install during my 6 hour drive home my check engine light came on. I contacted GPI the next day and worked out sending my PCM and having the code tuned out. Turns out it was just something Ryan had overlooked or forgot during my dyno time. Was something that only my year automatics needed turned off. I'm also fully aware of works well with stock converter and minimum mods. Again why I went with this cam. I am by no means trying to have the badest fastest street car. Just really enjoy getting in it when I can. My upcoming mods are just a full cat back exhaust. Most likely Borla or Magnaflow. And a CAI. I think also I just haven't described the "bucking" or "surging" very well. The car is still extremely drivable and smoot h. Never have I felt bad driving this or has it ever been a nuisance. It wasn't anything I was having checked into or looked at. Just the dealerships tech advice after driving it in and out of my oil change. Which was something I never heard from anyone else. And again went against GPI advice which sounded really off. So thought I should seek help here. |
01-20-2020, 06:16 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,041
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Stall. I recommend a 4C or if your frisky go 5C.
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01-20-2020, 09:13 AM | #10 |
Instagram: Sangstah
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For a stage 1 cam, I would stay with the stock converter. If you ever go more aggressive of a cam, go stall for sure.
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2019 SS 1LE - "CaSSandra" 2014 SS - "AleSSandra - Sold" 94 Z28 - Sold Follow the build https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612717 |
01-20-2020, 05:33 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 901
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Quote:
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2013 Camaro SS
Kooks Headers Vararam DRX 1le Differential 3.91 Bo White throttle body Magnaflow Competition Exhaust 12.391 112 MPH 10/05/19 |
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01-20-2020, 08:32 PM | #12 |
USA-1
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I run a 3200 with stock cam and damn....best mod HANDS DOWN! I can't imagine it with a cam!
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"A Camaro in the garage is safe, but that's not what Camaros are built for..."
R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete |
01-20-2020, 08:34 PM | #13 |
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Aftermarket cam/converter is a good idea only when the converter is right for the cam.
I have stock cam and a converter. Recommendation of proper one to get given to me by by Circle D. If I had a GPI stage I VVT cam, as the OP does, I would contact Ryan @ GPI before I added a converter, so I would have the PROPER one for this cam. You can't just slap one in and call it good, it has to match the cam. If you drive at lower RPM's like the OP stated he does, and you have a stalled converter, a transmission cooler is a must, along with a trans temp gauge. Unless you don't mind buying a new transmission. As the OP has already stated, he just enjoys "getting on it when he can". So a converter is really not needed. If I wasn't taking my car to the dragstrip, I wouldn't have one. City gas MPG absolutely sucks with it. But you gotta pay to play.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 01-20-2020 at 08:53 PM. |
01-21-2020, 09:59 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,041
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I daily a 6000 stall.
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