Simple front speaker upgrade

[Cheap Guy]

Simple - has anyone done just a 2 ohm speaker replacement in front? I don’t want to bypass or mess with my BA amp. Just a plug and play stock upgrade. If so, what brand or type do you recommend?

[Leo72793]

Originally Posted by Cheap Guy

Simple - has anyone done just a 2 ohm speaker replacement in front? I don’t want to bypass or mess with my BA amp. Just a plug and play stock upgrade. If so, what brand or type do you recommend?

JBL makes components that bestbuy sells 2.3 ohms. or go through companies like CDT audio. the JBL will be much quicker to get. They sell the speaker plug harnesses which makes install much easier for basic needs

[Cheap Guy]

Originally Posted by Leo72793

JBL makes components that bestbuy sells 2.3 ohms. or go through companies like CDT audio. the JBL will be much quicker to get. They sell the speaker plug harnesses which makes install much easier for basic needs

Thanks! Any idea how they sound? I assume JBL is a good brand.

[Camaro2ss2010]

I installed kicker door speakers. I used the adapter for the speaker mount and the wiring. Simple swap

[Leo72793]

Originally Posted by Cheap Guy

Thanks! Any idea how they sound? I assume JBL is a good brand.

Decent. nothing like focal or morel. IF you have boston you want to use 2 ohm or clsoe to it. no 4 ohms. youll lose half the output fro mthe "amp" that we get.

[Cheap Guy]

Originally Posted by Leo72793

Decent. nothing like focal or morel. IF you have boston you want to use 2 ohm or clsoe to it. no 4 ohms. youll lose half the output fro mthe "amp" that we get.

Again, thanks. I can get the JBL GX628 for $60 a pair. Gotta be better than the stock ones. I’m going to see if Focal has some 2 ohms.

I wonder if I need to change out the tweeters at the same time.

[Leo72793]

Originally Posted by Cheap Guy

Again, thanks. I can get the JBL GX628 for $60 a pair. Gotta be better than the stock ones. I’m going to see if Focal has some 2 ohms.

I wonder if I need to change out the tweeters at the same time.

you want COMPONENTS not COAXIAL. Do not put the coaxials in. will mess with how it sounds and not sound good

['10CamaroDude]

It depends HOW the coaxial are set up! If there is a post, that goes through the
center cone, up, to mount the tweeter on top, are the ones with the most full
range audio loss.

If they used a bridge across the speaker basket, tweeter mounts on the center
of the bridge, then the main speaker is whole, and is fine.

I use bridged coaxials, and they sound just fine.

Also, it depends on placement of the speaker for a coaxial to serve a purpose.
If you mount it down too far, there's no point in it, the tweeter is too low. SO,
then you don't use a coaxial. That's why the single cone speaker is down low,
the the tweeter is in the sail, or "A" pillar. My Mustang has bridged Coaxial 6x8s
in the doors. They're above the half-way point, forward. Subs are down low,
forward.

The Camaro has a LOW round speaker, and the tweeter in the door sail. That's
basically component. So, putting a coaxial down where that main door speaker
is worthless, because the positioning is wrong.

If you're midway up the door, forward, you can use coaxial speakers.

Rear deck is common for coaxial placement, for rear passengers mostly. My cars'
came with full range cone. I installed infinity 3-ohm 2-way coaxials. The Camaro
is full range speakers. The B.As. are 50-watt @ 2-ohm.




GOOD FOR COAXIAL PLACEMENT:

Upper is a 6x8 coaxial from the factory.



NOT GOOD FOR COAXIAL PLACEMENT:

That speaker is well too low to have a coaxial, the tweeter is worthless down there.

Read up on how the human ear "hears" sound...

[Lawdog86]

Any idea how to run a tweeter directly to the amp in 2011 Camaro, I have the hertz components, im trying to take the crossover out, but it appears from the diagram the factory tweeter and woofer are ultimately the same wire.
IMG_0920.jpg

[Leo72793]

Originally Posted by Lawdog86

Any idea how to run a tweeter directly to the amp in 2011 Camaro, I have the hertz components, im trying to take the crossover out, but it appears from the diagram the factory tweeter and woofer are ultimately the same wire.
IMG_0920.jpg

not possible on the oem setup. also if you do it will blow. you NEED a crossover. a tweeter is not going to play any frequencies under 2000hz. to properly do it you either need a crossiver or a DSP to run an active crossover.,

[Lawdog86]

Hey Leo, I bout a DSP, that is why I am trying to figure out a way to run both the woofer and tweeter to the DSP/AMP, but the problem, is the factory tweeter and woofer share the same connection out of the door. Not sure I want to drill a whole but if someone has done it successfully I would be very interested.

[Cheap Guy]

Originally Posted by Leo72793

you want COMPONENTS not COAXIAL. Do not put the coaxials in. will mess with how it sounds and not sound good

Yup, I got that I need components but most of them have the tweeter combined with the mid range(?) so do I lose the factory tweeter which is mounted in a good location or do I get a speaker with the tweeter separate from the mid range and replace the stock tweeter. The Hertz K-165 looks like what I expected as a plug and play package.

Hope that made sense.

[Lawdog86]

The Hertz Mille 165.3 sound amazing, with the JL XD 600 amp.https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-Mlk-165...9937397&sr=8-3

[Cheap Guy]

Originally Posted by Lawdog86

The Hertz Mille 165.3 sound amazing, with the JL XD 600 amp.https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-Mlk-165...9937397&sr=8-3

Unfortunately those are 4 ohm. Right now it looks like the JBL GX608CAM are going to be the best cost effective solution.

Crutchfield has really gone down from when I used them a few years ago. Their so called advisers recommended coaxials instead of components which I knew was obviously wrong. I was working on another vehicle last week and it was the same thing where they didn’t know what they were suggesting or saying.