Engine went kaboom

[410maross]

So about a year ago I bought a new to me 2014 SS 6 speed with approx 68,000 miles on it. Bone stock, clean. Have about 80,000 on it now and while driving to work, stabilitrack light came on, a few seconds of surging, and then boom. Got it towed to a dealer, broken valve and a nice size hole. Dealer said the computer showed I was at 2400rpm at 41mph in 4th gear.

At this point not sure if it's worth spending the money for a new block, maybe 416 stroker, or just scrapping the car. Anyone else had this happen? Any idea how much these are worth with a blown engine? Previous owner must have really ragged this one out perhaps? Thanks in advance for any advice

[InFiD3ViL]

Do you do your own work and are you capable of swapping your own engine? Keep in mind you don't HAVE to go with an actual LS3/L99 and can swap in pretty much any LS you want, although a Gen IV would be easiest. For example a truck 6.0 is half the price (or better) than a pullout LS3/L99. That power loss from the slightly smaller 6.0 can be made up for easily.

I spent a little more than $7k last year when I destroyed my L99. I bought a low mile (20k-ish) LS3 long block for $3800, spent $1700 at a respected race engine shop for a refresh/rebuild (rings, bearings, hone, heads milled, lifters, springs, all new gaskets/seals and reassembled), tools, engine stand and hoist, tuning, etc...I sold my 823 heads for $550, and the entire intake assembly (throttle body, injectors, rail, etc) for $250 to recoup some money. To buy a used long block and have it installed as-is would have cost me around the same (maybe more), but I now have a basically new LS3 that I know everything about instead of an engine with a lot of unexplained miles and history.

You have a ton of options here. Rebuild your current block if salvageable, buy a used long block/short block and swap parts (junkyard engine or pull out), buy an assembled forged/stroked short/long block (ie. TSP), etc...The killer is install cost if you don't do your own work. Take your time to consider and tally up the cost of every possible scenario and compare to your budget and any time constraints. If I could do it over again I would have just had my L99 rebuilt (forged) and probably saved a decent amount of money. But I rushed and went for what I thought was the easiest route at the time. But I now have a rebuildable 6.2 L99 with a good crank sitting in my living room begging for my attention and $$$. Basically, I'm just trying to say to take your time to figure out the best plan here as there are a lot of factors and paths to consider.

[410maross]

Thanks for the thought out reply. I can probably do the work myself if I can find the right used parts to put in. Glad to hear you were able to find what you needed for your rebuild. Good point on the labor being the kicker in this situation. I have all the neesed tools and a shop to work in, and no time limit, so that may be the most cost effective route to go

[Batmanntexas]

Yeah, if you can do the work yourself, it's definitely worth it to get it going again rather than scrap the car, IMHO.

Keep us updated!

-Scott

[skip_168]

Originally Posted by 410maross

So about a year ago I bought a new to me 2014 SS 6 speed with approx 68,000 miles on it. Bone stock, clean. Have about 80,000 on it now and while driving to work, stabilitrack light came on, a few seconds of surging, and then boom. Got it towed to a dealer, broken valve and a nice size hole. Dealer said the computer showed I was at 2400rpm at 41mph in 4th gear.

At this point not sure if it's worth spending the money for a new block, maybe 416 stroker, or just scrapping the car. Anyone else had this happen? Any idea how much these are worth with a blown engine? Previous owner must have really ragged this one out perhaps? Thanks in advance for any advice

I broke a valve spring, dropped the valve and “KABOOM-ED” my 2014 SS.. I was at 92,000 miles, but I was under the 5 year warranty period.. it was about $5,000 warranty cost, so I lucked out.. If it happened now, I would probably go with a crate LS7 and build up from there.. I have 160,000 on the car now.. so prolly time to change out those porous valve springs...

[410maross]

Originally Posted by Batmanntexas

Yeah, if you can do the work yourself, it's definitely worth it to get it going again rather than scrap the car, IMHO.

Keep us updated!

-Scott

10-4 good to know thanks!

[410maross]

Originally Posted by skip_168

I broke a valve spring, dropped the valve and “KABOOM-ED” my 2014 SS.. I was at 92,000 miles, but I was under the 5 year warranty period.. it was about $5,000 warranty cost, so I lucked out.. If it happened now, I would probably go with a crate LS7 and build up from there.. I have 160,000 on the car now.. so prolly time to change out those porous valve springs...

Yeah I've been pricing out 427s and 416s, probably will stay N/A with an aggressive cam

[Juiced1]

We've seen a few dropped valve LS3 motors. 99% of the cars we see with dropped valves are manual cars. My theory is that at one point the car was money shifted pretty hard. Valves lost some strength and eventually let go and always causing major damage. If you're lucky the block is salvageable. LS3 motors are not cheap but you can find a L92 engine priced fair enough. Rip the motor apart and see what you can salvage for a rebuild. Sometimes you get lucky and you just need to replace a piston and the head.

[410maross]

Will do, thanks