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Old 09-22-2022, 05:57 PM   #1
Gavin15644
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro SS 1LE
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Location: Michigan
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Camaro ss upstream O2 sensor issues.

Recently I installed a full exhaust along with headers on my 2015 SS 1LE, the install went good except when I fired the car up and took it for a drive, my bank 1 O2 sensor connector wire fell down and melted onto the header, after realizing I replaced the wire and later on brought it in to get tuned. We then realized that both O2 looked to be failing so both sensors were replaced which did not solve the issue so the car was further tuned with no O2 sensors at all temporarily. Later to find out, the fuse was blown for the pre cat O2 sensors which I thought would have solved the issue after changing that and along with a new fresh set of extender wires, and pulled the fuse from the post cat (which were no longer used) and swapped it into the pre cat. Took the car back to the tuner only to see that bank 2 was operating right but bank 1 was stuck causing the fuel trims to wack out. There must be a short of some sort somewhere but if the fuse blew how could this be possible? Should I perform a continuity test from the O2 connectors to the ECU to check for a possible short in the wiring harness? Or am I missing another issue that could be leading to this? I’m open to try anything as I’m very stuck on what is causing this and would love to put the O2s back to use.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:15 PM   #2
bottletalk
 
Drives: 15 Camaro 2SS M6
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sounds like u fried the analog input on the ecu for that side.
the ecu might of shut it down too, if that's the case bring it to the dealer for a reset.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:22 PM   #3
bottletalk
 
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take your other bank and connect it to the bad side on the ecu.
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Old 09-26-2022, 02:08 AM   #4
Gavin15644
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro SS 1LE
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Can you elaborate on this? How can I switch banks on the ecu?
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:01 AM   #5
CamaroCracka


 
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I think he means plug the sensor from the good side into the bad side to eliminate the sensor as a possibility. Switching banks at the ECU would be a major pain and not sure anyone would want to do that. You could do a continuity test on the wires on the bad side. One should be 12v power, another ground, the other two end up back at the ECU eventually. There used to be thread where a guy posted the manual. The schematics for the circuit are what you need at this point. Unfortunately, the file is 155MB so I'm pretty sure I could not put it in this post.
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