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Old 01-20-2010, 10:57 AM   #1
reddevilseye
 
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not BA system install amp with ,remote wire solution

many of you who want to install an amp and dont have BA system need the remote wire, her are some accessories can be used for the job

the last 2 in this page will sense the speaker and send 12+v to ur amp
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=6

this one is more expensive, but it will give RCA output too to ur amp
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28

and here is the pdf of installation
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_091709.pdf


hope this will help
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddevilseye View Post
many of you who want to install an amp and dont have BA system need the remote wire, her are some accessories can be used for the job

the last 2 in this page will sense the speaker and send 12+v to ur amp
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=6

this one is more expensive, but it will give RCA output too to ur amp
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28

and here is the pdf of installation
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_091709.pdf


hope this will help

you cant just tap into the fuse box for the remote wire?
i did this with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
also I'm not sure how it is wired up, but is there already power ran for an amp install since there's a supposed plug and play factory sub/amp system?
I haven't seen any schematics, i'm very ignorant when it comes to the electronics in this car. (had it less than 2 weeks)

I have the 6 speaker non BA system, all i really want to do is replace the 6x9's, i'm not even sure of what kind of power the non-BA system is rated at.
I have a couple amps laying around, I would like to try to hook one to some aftermarket 6x9s if the "plug and play" feature for an amp is truly there.
If not i'm more than happy with this stock stereo so far.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:42 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC_GIBB View Post
you cant just tap into the fuse box for the remote wire?
i did this with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
also I'm not sure how it is wired up, but is there already power ran for an amp install since there's a supposed plug and play factory sub/amp system?
I haven't seen any schematics, i'm very ignorant when it comes to the electronics in this car. (had it less than 2 weeks)

I have the 6 speaker non BA system, all i really want to do is replace the 6x9's, i'm not even sure of what kind of power the non-BA system is rated at.
I have a couple amps laying around, I would like to try to hook one to some aftermarket 6x9s if the "plug and play" feature for an amp is truly there.
If not i'm more than happy with this stock stereo so far.
I have the same non BA system, and if there was a plug and play for sub and amp, that'd be great. it would solve a bunch of issues.

got a quick question though. to run the 12 volt wire from amp to headunit on factory unit, I believe you said you you wired one of your other vehicles that way, how exactly does that workout?
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey View Post
I have the same non BA system, and if there was a plug and play for sub and amp, that'd be great. it would solve a bunch of issues.

got a quick question though. to run the 12 volt wire from amp to headunit on factory unit, I believe you said you you wired one of your other vehicles that way, how exactly does that workout?

Assuming you know how the rest of it is hooked up as far as power, ground, and rca's ... I ran the blue remote wire to my from my amp to the fuse panel in my Jeep i used to own, this way the amp would kick on only when the key is in Accesory or on position like it should be and not constantly on to drain your battery.

Of course its not the best way to go around things but it works. Like i said i'm not sure how this car is wired up. I guess someone probably has schematics on here somewhere. I'll link them in this forum as soon as I find them.

I would not do it this way especially if there is wiring already in place somewhere in the trunk. Which should be if there is an option for a plug and play amp/sub box.

I was only stating that you shouldnt need to buy an "auto trigger circuit" when you can just tap the fuse box to tell the amp "hey turn on"

I am by no means an Automotive Audio Installer, its been a hobby of mine for about 13 years and I have no formal training. But I have worked on Military Radar, weapons systems, and electronics for 10 yrs going. So i understand it a little bit!
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:39 PM   #5
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GM offered sub/amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey View Post
I have the same non BA system, and if there was a plug and play for sub and amp, that'd be great. it would solve a bunch of issues.

got a quick question though. to run the 12 volt wire from amp to headunit on factory unit, I believe you said you you wired one of your other vehicles that way, how exactly does that workout?

here is the "plug and play" system I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2010-...Q5fAccessories

also

http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/produ...232534ebea357f

GM OEM PN: 92213214
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:05 PM   #6
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I used a line out converter with remote amp line
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:34 AM   #7
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I used a line out converter with remote amp line

cool, i know there are line out converters that provide the signal for your remote and also provide your RCA's at the same time. This would be the best route to go utilizing the stock head unit, I'm sure you did this.

I had an aftermarket Pioneer in my jeep the remote came out of the wire harness (dont ask me how, bad crimp or solder i dunno) is why I ended up doing a patch job into the fuse box.

All i want to know is that since there is an option for the 2 10" sub/200w amp combo straight from the factory, is there power you can tap off of from inside the trunk already? If its already there I'll do the install this weekend! I would think that since this is an option, that their should already be a harness of some type in the trunk that provides everything you need for an amp, but i'm obviously mistaken since you had to install a line out converter.
Is there somewhere to run power right in the trunk or did you still have to run your power cable to the battery? If this is the case, How/where do you recommend running the power cable?

any input is appreciated!

thanks!
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC_GIBB View Post
cool, i know there are line out converters that provide the signal for your remote and also provide your RCA's at the same time. This would be the best route to go utilizing the stock head unit, I'm sure you did this.

I had an aftermarket Pioneer in my jeep the remote came out of the wire harness (dont ask me how, bad crimp or solder i dunno) is why I ended up doing a patch job into the fuse box.

All i want to know is that since there is an option for the 2 10" sub/200w amp combo straight from the factory, is there power you can tap off of from inside the trunk already? If its already there I'll do the install this weekend! I would think that since this is an option, that their should already be a harness of some type in the trunk that provides everything you need for an amp, but i'm obviously mistaken since you had to install a line out converter.
Is there somewhere to run power right in the trunk or did you still have to run your power cable to the battery? If this is the case, How/where do you recommend running the power cable?

any input is appreciated!

thanks!
I have a line-out converter. Have never had to use one before. Always had used an aftermarket system full-circle. 2010 Camaro is the only car I've had that I really don't wanna take out the fac-unit...
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:36 PM   #9
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Same here. I'm guessing most of the wiring will be done In the back... Okay ground goes on a bolt in the trunk. Power cable goes in positive in the battery which is In the back. The sub(s) I am running a loc. But I don't know where to put the remote
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:41 AM   #10
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PAC makes a High to Low with a sense built in, we use it with a lot of BMW's and Mercedes that are optical and dont have a good switched ACC. The SOEM-T is basically the same thing, and they work well. There should be a wire behind the stock radio for remote. Should be pin 43, which is white, and next to it is a red/white #44, which is constant power. Im pretty sure its the same for BA and non-BA cars.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltlaudio View Post
PAC makes a High to Low with a sense built in, we use it with a lot of BMW's and Mercedes that are optical and dont have a good switched ACC. The SOEM-T is basically the same thing, and they work well. There should be a wire behind the stock radio for remote. Should be pin 43, which is white, and next to it is a red/white #44, which is constant power. Im pretty sure its the same for BA and non-BA cars.

thanks for the input. I think I'll go w/ the PAC SOEM-T, seems like it should make install fairly easy.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:09 AM   #12
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ughhhh this is the only thing i am having problems!!!!!!!!

anyone know where to install the remote cable? something that turns on with the ignition switch in the trunk
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