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Old 11-21-2023, 12:37 AM   #1
Miami_SS
 
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Warning!...Oil Viscosity Matters As Much As...

the frequency of your oil changes. For years, I changed the oil in my 2011 SS between 4 - 5k mi but I did so at "Quik Change" Oil Centers such as "Jiffy Lube" and Valvoline. I would always tell them that oil viscosity at 0W was important for these cars.

As you can surmise, they would say "Sure, no problem". Well, after 8 years of oil changes (on a 2015 motor which was a direct replacement for the 2011 engine that seized due to the infamous internal oil pump failures that plagued 2010-12 Camaros) which included dealer visits but more so at these "Quik Change" Centers my LS3 needed a camshaft, crankshaft, and valve replacement due to internal engine failure due to improper oil viscosity leading to severe internal engine wear according to dealership (Chevy) diagnosis.

Interestingly, unlike the oil pump failure on my 2011 LS3, when the engine had a catastrophic moment and made my instrument panel look like a Xmas tree including a warning message in the display center "Turn Engine Off".

This time, I noticed a significant reduction in gas mileage, the smell of unburnt fuel after shutting off the car, DTCs referencing my crank position sensor, hard starting of the engine when cold, and significantly reduced power on acceleration but the car never displayed a message "Reduced Engine Power" in the display center.

I did a scan using HP Tuners and went to a local dealership that has performed work on my Camaro (head gasket) before. Their scan confirmed the DTCs I found using HP Tuners (great tuning and diagnostic tool) software.

After 5 weeks of waiting on parts (due to the Auto workers' strike) and a $7k repair bill, my car is finally back home and running like a beast. I haven't had car payments for 10 years so I was less prone to freak out at this bill since it was sunk cost and not on-going.

Lesson learned - all oil changes at a Chevy Dealership for the remaining life of this 2011 SS with 140k original miles on the odometer.
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Old 11-21-2023, 12:54 AM   #2
Infidel67
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Good Info, that is why I never in 11 years let them do my Oil change.
I got a Tech that charges me $20 to do my Oil change, but I buy the Oil and Filter.
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Old 11-21-2023, 01:58 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_SS View Post
I would always tell them that oil viscosity at 0W was important for these cars.
Fyi, the W distinguishes the viscosity below 0 degrees C. There is only a 5 degree difference between 0w and 5w. 5w oil is good down to -35 C (-31 F) and 0w is good down to -40 C/F. At any temp -35 C and 0 C, the two viscosity's operate and protect the same. Since you live in Miami, I highly doubt you see any -40 degree weather. Instead, you should instead worry about the second number. This number distinguishes the viscosity above 0 degrees C. If you are running XX-30 oil, it's possible you're running too thin of a oil and it's breaking down in the hot Miami summers so may want to look into running a 40 or maybe even a 50.

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Old 11-21-2023, 03:22 AM   #4
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Both of my '15s take 5w-30 Dexos spec per the owners manual. Period. No reason to deviate unless directed by a well respected, experienced builder or hitting the track. I recommend doing your own oil changes if you're physically capable. Otherwise only let a capable tech that you trust perform maintenance for you. I would not let a dealership touch my vehicle unless I knew the tech personally. Generally (not always) the oil change techs are the least experienced, entry level mechanics. Most will do a fine job. Some won't. No thanks.
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Old 11-21-2023, 03:37 AM   #5
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Stock engines tolerance -> XX-30 oil.
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Old 11-21-2023, 05:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infidel67 View Post
Good Info, that is why I never in 11 years let them do my Oil change.
I got a Tech that charges me $20 to do my Oil change, but I buy the Oil and Filter.
This is the way...

If you cannot do your own oil change, most quick change places will use your parts if you supply it.
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Old 11-21-2023, 08:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_SS View Post
....my LS3 needed a camshaft, crankshaft, and valve replacement due to internal engine failure due to improper oil viscosity leading to severe internal engine wear according to dealership (Chevy) diagnosis.

This time, I noticed a significant reduction in gas mileage, the smell of unburnt fuel after shutting off the car, DTCs referencing my crank position sensor, hard starting of the engine when cold, and significantly reduced power on acceleration

I did a scan using HP Tuners and went to a local dealership that has performed work on my Camaro (head gasket) before. Their scan confirmed the DTCs I found using HP Tuners (great tuning and diagnostic tool) software.

After 5 weeks of waiting on parts (due to the Auto workers' strike) and a $7k repair bill, my car is finally back home

Lesson learned - all oil changes at a Chevy Dealership for the remaining life of this 2011 SS with 140k original miles on the odometer.
Got ant photos of the destroyed parts to back any of this up? I think the dealer hosed you......... or maybe this never happened in the first place
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Old 11-21-2023, 08:35 AM   #8
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Just to add on. I always use Mobil1 full synthetic 5W-30 down south, for 12 years now.
Never had any Issues
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Old 11-21-2023, 08:44 AM   #9
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^^^ Same here. Since she was born, 5W30 Mobil 1 full syn. And the only person who touches my baby is my Chevy tech who has been wrenching on my Camaro since day 1!! 12 years ago. He knows my Camaro as well as his family! lol. Also I get to watch him do the oil changes so I know I'm getting what I should. My builder/tuner said that if I wanted I could run 10W40 since I'm cammed now, but that it wasn't really necessary since I don't track the car or beat on it.
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Old 11-21-2023, 08:49 AM   #10
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I just did my oil change with M1 and used a K&N filter. You guys on board with the K&N oil filters?
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Old 11-21-2023, 09:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 11/SS/RS View Post
I just did my oil change with M1 and used a K&N filter. You guys on board with the K&N oil filters?
K & N is a good one I prefer Mobil 1. I don,t like the bulk oil used . Prefer the branded oil you know what you put in. Trash in trash out.
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Old 11-21-2023, 10:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
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K & N is a good one I prefer Mobil 1. I don,t like the bulk oil used . Prefer the branded oil you know what you put in. Trash in trash out.
I prefer Mobil-1 as well. Someone posted a link about oil filters several months ago and the Mobil-1 oil filter had better filtration qualities and a higher popoff valve pressure than K&N.
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Old 11-21-2023, 01:02 PM   #13
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K&N is my bare minimum for filters. WIX is the best choice.
I do all the fluids myself.
Oil every 2-3K miles.
Trans and Diff every 15K.
Coolant once a year.
Brake fluid is done before track season, once a year.
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Old 11-21-2023, 01:11 PM   #14
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K&N is my bare minimum for filters. WIX is the best choice.
The standard Wix is ok.... the Wix XP is a TERRIBLE filter.

40 microns at 95% efficiency is basically a rock catcher. Do not use this filter on anything you own.....

The new Fram Endurance at Wally Mart is a real good filter ( I know, Fram sux) and the Purolater "One" ( not the "Boss") is another good filter.

When the Mobil 1 filters went to the "A' suffix, it ceased to be a good filter.
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