Oil protection for high horsepower engines..

[FirstLSK]

While doing some research on motor oil, I ran across some interesting information. This actually comes directly from the Mobil 1 website. Looks like the enviroweenies are poisoning the lubricating properties of our motor oils.

At 426+ HP, I am concerned about this. For those that have been putting superchargers, turbochargers, etc. on their cars, this should be a BIG concern. I always wondered why the Vette guys that track their car run Mobil 1 15w50 -- now I know one of the reasons.

If you read into this article, they basically say -- "yes, here is why, and here is what will work"

From the Mobil 1 website:
Question:
Has Zinc Been Removed from Motor Oils?
I am having thrust bearing failure in a 4.6 modified performance engine. This is a street/strip engine. Many of my friends are having the same problem. I think it is the result of the removal of zinc from the oil. I was told by two separate racing engine builders that the EPA ordered the removal of the zinc from over-the-counter motor oil. I use Mobil 1 5W-20. Is this true and do you think a zinc additive might help?
-- Randy Lovejoy, Americas, GA

Answer:
The active ingredient that you are talking about is phosphorus which is added thru a component called ZDDP. For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-4 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications; see the attached table.


Source article here:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...otor_Oils.aspx


Link to the table they refer to:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf



Turns out ZDDP is a big cushioning and anti-scar additive that they put in oil. Now, I need to start doing some research to see if there are any of the speciality oil manufacturers that have left "the good stuff" (ZDDP) in a 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic oil.


.

[67MellowYellow]

For highly modified racing motors and older engines without roller cams, I would probably add ZDDP or look for a high phosphorous content oil. I would especially add it to a newly rebuilt older engine for sure. For my new cars, I don't want to ruin my catalytic convertors. The engines are designed with this grade of oil in mind and I doubt adding it would increase life. Now days, the engine seems to be the last thing that wears out in a car for me.

[Russell James]

If you stuck M1 5w30 in there just like the oil cap says, and then run that car 200,000 miles (changing it regularly). If you ever had an engine problem I highly doubt it would be oil related. Or even if you stuck 5w30 Walmart superlube in there. Synthetic is used in case the car ever sees high performance track use with real high oil temps. The average joe or suzy blow on the street could really get by with any brand of the correct weight and spec oil.

I've opened up and tinkered with tons of street motors and never once saw anything bad caused by whatever brand of oil and did it have x y or z additives. Only thing I've ever seen oil related failure wise is when someone either doesn't change it often enough or lets it get way too low.

Now if your going cup racing at Daytona or Fuel Funny Car at Indy, they really have to pay attention to an exact oil formula to prevent damage and maximize hp. A street Camaro? There is a hint on the oil cap of something that will work just perfect for you.

[mmbarberoilman]

Go to Amsoil. Nothing better on the market.

[canadian ss]

I've used 15-50 mobil 1 every LOF on my 98 camaro and never had issues. I take into consideration of summer heat and humidity vs. how hard I drove that car to come up with the reasoning of using 15-50 M1. I sold it with 150,000 miles on it and it ran like a clock. Only thing I replaced was water pump and tune up related parts on the engine. Was running 13.3 1/4 time with stock engine and tune. Engine was in immaculate shape and didn't burn or drip oil.
Not sure if I want to go 0w30 or 15/50 again for my LOFs. Only at 1800miles.

[2ndgenz28]

Id add a bottle of ZDDP to even my mild performance engine.

cheap insurance, that isn't going to hurt but only help.

Get it by the case to save $$$, sell extra to friends here.

The only good oil anymore is the breakin oil, and they used the term for breakin only to get around the laws.

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by canadian ss

I've used 15-50 mobil 1 every LOF on my 98 camaro and never had issues. I take into consideration of summer heat and humidity vs. how hard I drove that car to come up with the reasoning of using 15-50 M1. I sold it with 150,000 miles on it and it ran like a clock. Only thing I replaced was water pump and tune up related parts on the engine. Was running 13.3 1/4 time with stock engine and tune. Engine was in immaculate shape and didn't burn or drip oil.
Not sure if I want to go 0w30 or 15/50 again for my LOFs. Only at 1800miles.

I wouldn't do either. I'd go 5w30 in the cold temps, 10w30 in the summer, pick your favorite brand of synthetic.

It has been well researched that most engine wear occurs at start up. Too thick an oil doesn't sound good for that.

15w50 might be a good idea for hot lapping at the 1/4 mile, but I don't now if I would use that for daily driving year round.

[mtcwby]

I use 0W-30 Mobil 1 for my oil changes. It meets and exceeds the specs of 5W-30 Mobil 1, but it is better for start-ups where the most engine damage occurs.

[Cam_Cam10]

I have a real newby question. The stp additives they have at gas stations like water remover, anti engine knock etc. Are they even helpful or are they something to stay away from? Thanks a lot

[mulletman]

The STP additives will do no harm but they are not needed IMO. Use a high quality
gasoline and change the oil and filter when required. Today's gasolines are 10% ethanol which removes water. Use the octane called for in your owners manual and no octane booster is necessary.