How many quarts for manual trans service?

[hcch]

Hi I am sorry but searthing I did not find how many quarts I may need to service the manual trans for a 2010 SS.

Thanks to all

[CamaroCracka]

4

[RupertPupkin]

Pain in the ass especially working on your back, and you need a transfer pump. When I serviced mine, it was slightly less than 4. The trans oil was coming out in a small and steady stream. That's a good indication it's at a good level. You might as well do the diff oil while you're down there. That too was a pain and it stunk.

[hcch]

many thanks guys, besides the oil is there any other things I may need to service it? I almost sure will go for the RP Synchromax

[hcch]

Also I do not know if I may need to change any other trans-drivetrain oil

[RupertPupkin]

Trans/diff/engine oil. That's usually the only oil that needs to be drained. I did all mine in 1 shot, including my centri oil and brake fluid & clutch fluid. As always, loosen the fill plug first, then the drain plug 7

[hcch]

I have not done the trans and diff oil, any suggestions for the diff oil brand and quantity for service? thanks again

[RupertPupkin]

Originally Posted by hcch

I have not done the trans and diff oil, any suggestions for the diff oil brand and quantity for service? thanks again

https://youtu.be/1r1ANNBXW6U

https://youtu.be/macuklbw7gE

I used Mobil 1 for the trans, and royal purple for the diff. A lot of guys here use redline or amsoil for the trans. Pretty straight forward for drain and fill.

[hcch]

It does not matter that we use ATF for a manual trans?

[RupertPupkin]

Nope

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by hcch

It does not matter that we use ATF for a manual trans?

Make sure to NOT use Dexron VI/Mercon LV or anything that's basically thinner, less viscous. You can find a lot more info on the Bobistheoilguy forums; but essentially, the additive package and friction modifiers in some popular multi-vehicle ATF such as Valvoline's Maxlife, is a bit TOO slippery for the synchronizers in the Tremec manual gearboxes. Something made for like the 8-10 speed automatics, is far too thin and has friction modifiers made for AUTOMATIC gearboxes, not manual (ex: Dexron/Mercon ULV, Lifeguard 8/9, Honda Type 3.1, etc.). You would be surprised at what I see people trying to put/use in their ATF-spec'd manual gearboxes/transmissions....

I, myself, tested it for a while, and it was okay at first and definitely was fine for cold start driving. But over time, it began to get notchy, and it would feel like it would want to crunch and grind as the trans began to get to operating temps (around the middle/180 F mark). You will really begin to notice the shortcomings when the fluid starts to overheat. If you are drag racing or track driving the car, you will most likely acknowledge the incompatibility of the ATF when you begin to beat on the car.

The (operating) viscosity of most Dexron LV/Mercon LV is also around ~5.8 - 6.1 cst, which is also lower than the ~6.9 - 7.3 cst that most Dexron III/Mercon V ATF's are rated at. At a minimum, you would want to run a "standard viscosity" ATF, which would also include ATF+4 as being okay. For those who don't already know, they just differentiate a bit between makes; with GM licensing Dexron, Ford licensing Mercon, and Dodge licensing ATF+.

Lots of people also find running Synchromesh MTF formulas to some of the best as well; it just hurts the cold start performance a bit, especially if you live in the colder climates. These are typically around a 75w-80 oil weight, and GL-4 rated. Do NOT try to use a GL-5 rated gear oil, which is what goes in the rear differential (hypoid gearing). At the least, you can use a GL-4+, which is GL4/5 compatible and safe for yellow metals; but I would just stick to a MTF-based GL-4 gear oil altogether, if possible.

[TheBrightSide]

I think it might be a bit tricky, based on a few different thing, including how you lift up the car (whether or not you use ramps, etc.). There's also the trick of bending a paper clip or some hook, to reach like a 1/8 or 1/4" inch (can't recall) underneath the fill hole; which would be the recommended trans fluid level.

From what I know, you can't really overfill this manual trans, based on the way you have to fill it with fluid; but you can definitely be over the recommended fluid level. I've never had leaking seals that I think, were directly contributed to being over the recommended fluid level.

You will want to use a gallon container and a siphon pump, if you want to lessen the suffering as much as possible. Due to the location of the fill plug, you can't really get a good angle to just dump in fluid from an above angle; unless you absolutely route like 5' ft or more of tubing to the side and up and over.

I personally have a method I use, with certain parts, that gets the filling done within 5 mins or less.

[CamaroCracka]

I've filled them a few times with just a funnel in the engine compartment and a long hose running to the fill hole. I let it empty, put all four quarts with a pan under the fill hole and it was just coming out on the fourth quart. Some sort of fluid pump would be better, but not a cheap one as they can get oil everywhere.

[hcch]

Thanks for Ayón your kid and interesting comments, prior to read the last 4 I placed an order for the following:

AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES MULTI-VEHICLE 100% SYNTHETIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

And

AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR® 75W-90 100% SYNTHETIC GEAR LUBE