Critical changes for the track

[SS_Dave]

For those that are putting their cars on the track (not drag strip), what are the most critical suspension updates you did. Looking to progressively improve handling on this thing. Parts are worn anyway at over 100K miles. Don't want to spend a fortune, though. I'm thinking coilovers, sway bars, and end links are top of the list. Other critical items?

[gtstorey]

Solid Rear Subframe bushings.

[KillboyPowerhead]

2012+ outboard-mount rear sway bar if you have a 2010/11; will require 2012+ lower control arms.

[SS_Dave]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Solid Rear Subframe bushings.

Day to day ride quality and NVH? Intent at the moment is only occasional amateur tracking.

[SS_Dave]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

2012+ outboard-mount rear sway bar if you have a 2010/11; will require 2012+ lower control arms.

2011.

Plan was this kit to refresh the front end

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15413&jsn=966

along with sway bars, end links, and coilovers.

[olblue75]

Rear subframe bushings are a very quiet part it’s when you do the diff/trans/eng mounts is when parts get loud and drone.
1. Set of sway bars 5mm difference front to back, front being smaller (ZL1 front/1LE rear).
2. Bilstien B6’s save money on coilovers to buy rear suspension parts,
and while your in there get a good set of 1” lowering springs.
3. DSE or BMR rear toe, lower control, and trailing arms (BMR is more budget friendly).
4. Wheels an tires preferably Forged Wheels and a good 200 TW tire.
5. Brakes stay with stock 4 piston SS or upgrade to 6 piston ZL1 or C7 Vette calipers OEM
ZL1 rotors for price or DBA/Giro Disc, rear OEM rotors will be fine.
6. Brake pads now that’s a going to be a personal choice, I run OEM pads on ZL1 setup
and it works pretty good but there’s a ton of room for improvement.
7. Engine oil cooler I would budget for that as well the better you get the harder you’ll run
and the oil will get hot. But that’s a last thing to do are you auto or manual if auto
upgrade your trans cooler.

I remember a post being made that the right suspension parts is akin to adding almost 100hp and it didn’t make sense at first but after I started going down that road it made perfect sense.
I hope this helps cause that’s the way I started an my car is pretty good, just needs a better driver.

[olblue75]

And that front kit is an awesome kit you can’t go wrong with Moog!!

[SS_Dave]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Rear subframe bushings are a very quiet part it’s when you do the diff/trans/eng mounts is when parts get loud and drone.
1. Set of sway bars 5mm difference front to back, front being smaller (ZL1 front/1LE rear).
2. Bilstien B6’s save money on coilovers to buy rear suspension parts
3. DSE or BMR rear toe, lower control, and trailing arms (BMR is more budget friendly).
4. Wheels an tires preferably Forged Wheels and a good 200 TW tire.
5. Brakes stay with stock 4 piston SS or upgrade to 6 piston ZL1 or C7 Vette calipers OEM
ZL1 rotors for price or DBA/Giro Disc, rear OEM rotors will be fine.
6. Brake pads now that’s a going to be a personal choice, I run OEM pads on ZL1 setup
and it works pretty good but there’s a ton of room for improvement.
7. Engine oil cooler I would budget for that as well the better you get the harder you’ll run
and the oil will get hot. But that’s a last thing to do are you auto or manual if auto
upgrade your trans cooler.

I remember a post being made that the right suspension parts is akin to adding almost 100hp and it didn’t make sense at first but after I started going down that road it made perfect sense.
I hope this helps cause that’s the way I started an my car is pretty good, just needs a better driver.

Great info. Thx.

I'm M6, btw.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Originally Posted by SS_Dave

2011.

Plan was this kit to refresh the front end

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15413&jsn=966

along with sway bars, end links, and coilovers.

If you still have the original inboard-mount (shorter) rear bar I'd highly recommend the 2012+ longer bar - makes a huge difference. And even after noticing such a big change with the new bar (went from older style, 22 mm hollow bar to newer style, 32 mm solid bar), after adding solid rear subframe mounts I wanna say the difference was once again huge. Minimal if any extra NVH with the solid mounts.

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Rear subframe bushings are a very quiet part it’s when you do the diff/trans/eng mounts is when parts get loud and drone.
1. Set of sway bars 5mm difference front to back, front being smaller (ZL1 front/1LE rear).
2. Bilstien B6’s save money on coilovers to buy rear suspension parts,
and while your in there get a good set of 1” lowering springs.
3. DSE or BMR rear toe, lower control, and trailing arms (BMR is more budget friendly).
4. Wheels an tires preferably Forged Wheels and a good 200 TW tire.
5. Brakes stay with stock 4 piston SS or upgrade to 6 piston ZL1 or C7 Vette calipers OEM
ZL1 rotors for price or DBA/Giro Disc, rear OEM rotors will be fine.
6. Brake pads now that’s a going to be a personal choice, I run OEM pads on ZL1 setup
and it works pretty good but there’s a ton of room for improvement.
7. Engine oil cooler I would budget for that as well the better you get the harder you’ll run
and the oil will get hot. But that’s a last thing to do are you auto or manual if auto
upgrade your trans cooler.

I remember a post being made that the right suspension parts is akin to adding almost 100hp and it didn’t make sense at first but after I started going down that road it made perfect sense.
I hope this helps cause that’s the way I started an my car is pretty good, just needs a better driver.

This is 100% the route you will end up going down.
However, if you are just starting to get your Camaro out on track or are new to running around a road course, I would suggest mainly starting with good 200 tread wear tires, some high quality brake pads like Hawk DTS70's or Cobalt XR1's, and replacing the brake fluid with DOT4+ fluid.

Get out on track and have some fun and you will soon find what you will want to replace/upgrade. Olblue pointed ya down the right path.

I started tracking a few years ago with my 1LE and have not touched any of the suspension... yet.
It has all mainly been brakes, tires, and cooling mods. Plus some new racing oil pan baffles and a new Melling oil pump.

[SS_Dave]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Rear subframe bushings are a very quiet part it’s when you do the diff/trans/eng mounts is when parts get loud and drone.
1. Set of sway bars 5mm difference front to back, front being smaller (ZL1 front/1LE rear).
2. Bilstien B6’s save money on coilovers to buy rear suspension parts,
and while your in there get a good set of 1” lowering springs.
3. DSE or BMR rear toe, lower control, and trailing arms (BMR is more budget friendly).
4. Wheels an tires preferably Forged Wheels and a good 200 TW tire.
5. Brakes stay with stock 4 piston SS or upgrade to 6 piston ZL1 or C7 Vette calipers OEM
ZL1 rotors for price or DBA/Giro Disc, rear OEM rotors will be fine.
6. Brake pads now that’s a going to be a personal choice, I run OEM pads on ZL1 setup
and it works pretty good but there’s a ton of room for improvement.
7. Engine oil cooler I would budget for that as well the better you get the harder you’ll run
and the oil will get hot. But that’s a last thing to do are you auto or manual if auto
upgrade your trans cooler.

I remember a post being made that the right suspension parts is akin to adding almost 100hp and it didn’t make sense at first but after I started going down that road it made perfect sense.
I hope this helps cause that’s the way I started an my car is pretty good, just needs a better driver.

BTW, are you lowered any in this pic?