School me on towing

[m6-lt1]

I know there’s guys on this board who know a lot about towing. I have been wanting to make this post for awhile. I’m in the market for a 10ish year old truck and I have decided on an f150 with either a 5.0 or 2.7 turbo. Reliability is import to me and I trust that truck in that configuration more than the ram and GM options. I’d love a tundra but can’t afford it.

Anyway I am trying to make sure the truck will be able to tow what I need. I most likely will get an extended cab or super cab. May or may not come with a tow package (I believe I can add things like hitches, trailer brake wiring and transmission coolers after the fact but let me know if I can’t). It also will be 4x4.

Here is what I will be towing:
3800 lb Camaro
2200 lb uhual trailer
Inside the truck (which I believe is payload capacity) some tools, maybe a set of wheels and a jack. Me and my passenger weight less than 300 lbs combined. 300 lbs with the dog.

I’m getting confused on things like tongue weight and hitch types. For the 2.7, im seeing it rated at 7,600 lbs but I believe I have to get a certain type of hitch? Someone please school me on this.

For the 5.0 im seeing it rated at 8,100 lbs.
again im not sure how to figure out tongue weight and if its something to do with the truck or the hitch?

Was hoping if y’all could confirm if those trucks will handle what I need it to tow. Years of the trucks would be 14-16 for the 5.0 and 15/16 for the 2.7.

I’d be towing with it 300-900 miles one way 1-3 times a year.

Any help is appreciated. You can explain it to me like I’m an idiot, I won’t be offended. I am just trying to learn about towing and want to make sure those options will work for me.

[ariZona28]

I'm real old school with my opinion but for safety and dependability you should be looking at a 3/4 ton truck for vehicle towing. A 1/2 ton small engine truck might be able to pull a certain load but that doesn't mean it can do so SAFELY given the variables of terrain and emergency panic stop situations. 2 years ago I upgraded to a low mile '01 Chevrolet 2500HD with the 8.1L Big-block power plant. Absolutely NO regrets!

[FarmerFran]

Usually on half ton trucks the tow rating is bullsheet. You will run out of payload before you hit your tow rating.
That said...the payload should be on a sticker in the door jamb.

10% of total trailer weight goes to tongue weight.

I am on my phone, i will post more when i am on my PC

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

I'm real old school with my opinion but for safety and dependability you should be looking at a 3/4 ton truck for vehicle towing. A 1/2 ton small engine truck might be able to pull a certain load but that doesn't mean it can do so SAFELY given the variables of terrain and emergency panic stop situations. 2 years ago I upgraded to a low mile '01 Chevrolet 2500HD with the 8.1L Big-block power plant. Absolutely NO regrets!

If I had space and didn’t live up north I’d do the exact same thing and just drive the vehicle once or twice a month and just daily something else. Any 20 year old truck where I live is going to be rotted to hell.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by FarmerFran

Usually on half ton trucks the tow rating is bullsheet. You will run out of payload before you hit your tow rating.
That said...the payload should be on a sticker in the door jamb.

10% of total trailer weight goes to tongue weight.

I am on my phone, i will post more when i am on my PC

Thank you. I should have been more clear about tongue weight. Is the MAX tongue weight capacity determined by what truck I buy or determined by the hitch I have installed?

[FarmerFran]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Thank you. I should have been more clear about tongue weight. Is the MAX tongue weight capacity determined by what truck I buy or determined by the hitch I have installed?

Both

Get a class 4 hitch good for 10K lbs and then also payload, for a minor example a new-ish 1/2 ton in a limited or high trim level can have a payload in the 900-1000 lbd range.

Then take your 10% trailer weight to the tongue, in your instance from memory ~600lbs that comes off payload then your 300lbs and "stuff" I bet you would be over weight.

So you need to look at the vehicle payload.

I'll be back with more, need to run out.

[silversleeper]

Mainly I was going to say thumbs up on the 3/4 ton not half ton. Having pulled some trailers it does give you that feel right up front. I think one was setup as a half ton with trailer towing option that did show itself when towing.
A good hitch and consider anti sway and trailer brake options I would like to try hydraulic oh I think uhaul already has the trailer brakes built in IIRC from looking at them a year ago.
2wd or 4wd will be a matter of if you need it for mud or deep snow.
In reality the lower center of gravity and price and availability favors 2wd. This goes more for good used market as more people are willing to pay for 4wd toy.
Oh I wouldnt like to get a non diesel turbo for towing either. They can build up heat which is a problem even for diesel trucks but the car engine types that are put into pickups I wouldn't trust to not overheat for extended hard pulling like a heavy trailer. I'd even rather have a v6 than a turbo 4 but v6 isn't a good idea either with that heave pulling in mind.

[bsn]

For towing you absolutely want a 8 cylinder , usually trucks equipped with a tow package come with extra/larger coolers, heavier spring rates ECT. A 1/2 ton truck will work for the weights you listed but a 3/4 ton truck do everything so much better it's worth the extra $$$ and you'll get it back on better resale. Looking for a truck a little south of you would allow you to get something with little or no rust.

[FarmerFran]

Originally Posted by bsn

For towing you absolutely want a 8 cylinder , usually trucks equipped with a tow package come with extra/larger coolers, heavier spring rates ECT. A 1/2 ton truck will work for the weights you listed but a 3/4 ton truck do everything so much better it's worth the extra $$$ and you'll get it back on better resale. Looking for a truck a little south of you would allow you to get something with little or no rust.

Meh, while I would tend to agree, my neighbor has an original eco 150 and it is still going with no issue other than the original injector issue that Ford took care of.

And I am also in the "I do not need a 2500/250 for occasional towing as long as I am in the safe towing weights".

I have 1000s of miles towing "heavy" travel trailers in spec with a RAM 1500.

Usually it is the driver/owner not the vehicle that causes the issues. but I digress.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Full disclosure, I have a Class A CDL and have used it for many thousands of miles, driving everything from semis to 1/2 ton trucks. (Obviously the latter doesn’t warrant the license)

Here’s my opinion for what it’s worth. Don’t get the turbo anything other than diesel for towing. Those ecoturds especially the early ones are know for blowing head gaskets, and killing turbos when pulling anywhere remotely near capacity. They get hot and can’t manage that heat worth a crap.. Get a 3/4 ton gas truck and be done with it. I’ve pulled hundreds of thousands of miles in my adult life. Part of my time was oilfield work driving chevys, fords and a dodge or two, pulling trailers of all shapes and sizes daily. You might be in the range of towing for a half ton but the extra stability and confidence on a 3/4 ton in this situation is a big plus when you need it the most… trying to stop those shitty U-Haul surge breaks in a pinch. Remember it’s not nearly how fast you can run down the road or get up to speed when towing. It’s how reliably and safely you can stop that load at speed that matters most. I’m Chevy guy. I like Chevy trucks passionately, they’ve been the best for me over the years. I’ve had a few fords thru my old job that did pretty decent for their 150,000 mile service life.

[Capricio]

Agree with getting a decent gasser 3/4 ton. Find a 2002-2018 or so Silverado/Sierra 2500 HD with an LQ4 or (later) L96 6.0 engine. This engine has a great reputation for reliability and low maintenance. Maybe a fleet trade in WT. If it's too old for a rear camera, install an aftermarket one in the tailgate handle with a new touchscreen stereo so you can back up to the trailer ball using a camera. These trucks will have very stout transmissions with factory auxilliary cooling, the told 4L80 or the newer 6L90.

Also, get some big mirrors if it isn't equipped with them. They are a HUGE help. I think mine are from Rocky Ridge or something like, $200+, work great and click right into the power mirror controls.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by FarmerFran

Both

Get a class 4 hitch good for 10K lbs and then also payload, for a minor example a new-ish 1/2 ton in a limited or high trim level can have a payload in the 900-1000 lbd range.

Then take your 10% trailer weight to the tongue, in your instance from memory ~600lbs that comes off payload then your 300lbs and "stuff" I bet you would be over weight.

So you need to look at the vehicle payload.

I'll be back with more, need to run out.

Are you saying the 1/2 tons I'm looking at only have 900-1000 lbs of payload because you don't trust their payload ratings? I'm seeing a little over 2k for Payload for a 2.7 and 3k for a 5.0. I understand 600-900 lbs has to be subtracted for tongue weight.

Originally Posted by silversleeper

A good hitch and consider anti sway and trailer brake options I would like to try hydraulic oh I think uhaul already has the trailer brakes built in IIRC from looking at them a year ago.
2wd or 4wd will be a matter of if you need it for mud or deep snow.
In reality the lower center of gravity and price and availability favors 2wd. This goes more for good used market as more people are willing to pay for 4wd toy.
Oh I wouldnt like to get a non diesel turbo for towing either. They can build up heat which is a problem even for diesel trucks but the car engine types that are put into pickups I wouldn't trust to not overheat for extended hard pulling like a heavy trailer. I'd even rather have a v6 than a turbo 4 but v6 isn't a good idea either with that heave pulling in mind.

Yes, Uhaul has brakes built in. Good point about the overheating on the turbos. I was going to do more research on that because I wondered that myself. Dude every single time I think I found a good deal on a truck it's a damn 4x2 haha. This truck will be my daily so I need 4X4.

Originally Posted by bsn

For towing you absolutely want a 8 cylinder , usually trucks equipped with a tow package come with extra/larger coolers, heavier spring rates ECT. A 1/2 ton truck will work for the weights you listed but a 3/4 ton truck do everything so much better it's worth the extra $$$ and you'll get it back on better resale. Looking for a truck a little south of you would allow you to get something with little or no rust.

I'm planning on upgrading the trans cooler whether or not I get the tow package. The aftermarket is better at that I've read. The reason I am considering the 2.7 is it makes it's torque earlier than the 5.0 and over a wider range. I am looking a little bit south of me so I can hopefully avoid rot.

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

Full disclosure, I have a Class A CDL and have used it for many thousands of miles, driving everything from semis to 1/2 ton trucks. (Obviously the latter doesn’t warrant the license)

Here’s my opinion for what it’s worth. Don’t get the turbo anything other than diesel for towing. Those ecoturds especially the early ones are know for blowing head gaskets, and killing turbos when pulling anywhere remotely near capacity. They get hot and can’t manage that heat worth a crap.. Get a 3/4 ton gas truck and be done with it. I’ve pulled hundreds of thousands of miles in my adult life. Part of my time was oilfield work driving chevys, fords and a dodge or two, pulling trailers of all shapes and sizes daily. You might be in the range of towing for a half ton but the extra stability and confidence on a 3/4 ton in this situation is a big plus when you need it the most… trying to stop those shitty U-Haul surge breaks in a pinch. Remember it’s not nearly how fast you can run down the road or get up to speed when towing. It’s how reliably and safely you can stop that load at speed that matters most. I’m Chevy guy. I like Chevy trucks passionately, they’ve been the best for me over the years. I’ve had a few fords thru my old job that did pretty decent for their 150,000 mile service life.

So the ecoturd that is a turd is the 3.5. That engine is absolute garbage. Brand new they cost the most but due to their reputation they are below the 5.0 and 2.7 resale wide. Sucks cause that engine makes a butt load of torque. You bring up a good point about turbo's maybe getting overworked while towing so I will look into that. I have read nothing but great things though when it comes to reliability for the 2.7. It rates higher than the 5.0 and that's a fairly reliable engine.

Thanks for the info on the uHual brakes not being up to par. I def did not know that.

Since I'm looking at a 10 year old truck, I'm seeing 2014ish silverados not being that good on the reliability scale. First year of the Gen V engine, AC issues AND transmission issues. The 5.0 in the F150 seems to be more stout than the LTX engines. The 6r80 is a great transmission which is surprising since all Ford transmissions before AND after the 6r80 are junk. Not sure how they managed to make a good transmission for once. 2015 silverados I believe have the 8 speed but I'm not touching those with a 10 foot pole. If my budget allowed for a 10 speed silverado 5.3 pre covid build I'd look at those but those are way out of budget for me. Post covid GM cars are having all kinds of lifter issues (more so than what we'd see before). This is actually why I am looking for a tow vehicle. I'm seeing one too many 1LE's blow up the past few years, all post covid builds. The 16-19's somehow seem to be still going strong. Was hoping they would sort it out by MY 23 but I've seen a few 23's blow up. Mine is a late build 23 so we'll see I hate to say it but it just seems like the quality control post pandemic has gone downhill,

ngl you guys recommending the 3/4 ton has kinda killed my dream of towing to the track as it will tremendously help with anxiety at the track. Lap times improve when you don't have to worry about driving your track car home

I just can't afford a 3/4 ton and nor do I want to daily a 3/4 ton. I do not have space to store a 20 year 3/4 ton. Whatever I buy has to be daily driven.

Only thing I'll point out that may have been missed are I'm only towing 1-3 times a year. While it would be nice to get a 3/4 ton I'm just not sure it's necessary for towing 1-3 times a year. The 900 mile tows will only be once a year (Road America 2025, Sebring 2026, Barber Motorsports Parker 2027, Road Atlanta 2028)

[FarmerFran]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Are you saying the 1/2 tons I'm looking at only have 900-1000 lbs of payload because you don't trust their payload ratings? I'm seeing a little over 2k for Payload for a 2.7 and 3k for a 5.0. I understand 600-900 lbs has to be subtracted for tongue weight.



Yes, Uhaul has brakes built in. Good point about the overheating on the turbos. I was going to do more research on that because I wondered that myself. Dude every single time I think I found a good deal on a truck it's a damn 4x2 haha. This truck will be my daily so I need 4X4.



I'm planning on upgrading the trans cooler whether or not I get the tow package. The aftermarket is better at that I've read. The reason I am considering the 2.7 is it makes it's torque earlier than the 5.0 and over a wider range. I am looking a little bit south of me so I can hopefully avoid rot.



So the ecoturd that is a turd is the 3.5. That engine is absolute garbage. Brand new they cost the most but due to their reputation they are below the 5.0 and 2.7 resale wide. Sucks cause that engine makes a butt load of torque. You bring up a good point about turbo's maybe getting overworked while towing so I will look into that. I have read nothing but great things though when it comes to reliability for the 2.7. It rates higher than the 5.0 and that's a fairly reliable engine.

Thanks for the info on the uHual brakes not being up to par. I def did not know that.

Since I'm looking at a 10 year old truck, I'm seeing 2014ish silverados not being that good on the reliability scale. First year of the Gen V engine, AC issues AND transmission issues. The 5.0 in the F150 seems to be more stout than the LTX engines. The 6r80 is a great transmission which is surprising since all Ford transmissions before AND after the 6r80 are junk. Not sure how they managed to make a good transmission for once. 2015 silverados I believe have the 8 speed but I'm not touching those with a 10 foot pole. If my budget allowed for a 10 speed silverado 5.3 pre covid build I'd look at those but those are way out of budget for me. Post covid GM cars are having all kinds of lifter issues (more so than what we'd see before). This is actually why I am looking for a tow vehicle. I'm seeing one too many 1LE's blow up the past few years, all post covid builds. The 16-19's somehow seem to be still going strong. Was hoping they would sort it out by MY 23 but I've seen a few 23's blow up. Mine is a late build 23 so we'll see I hate to say it but it just seems like the quality control post pandemic has gone downhill,

ngl you guys recommending the 3/4 ton has kinda killed my dream of towing to the track as it will tremendously help with anxiety at the track. Lap times improve when you don't have to worry about driving your track car home

I just can't afford a 3/4 ton and nor do I want to daily a 3/4 ton. I do not have space to store a 20 year 3/4 ton. Whatever I buy has to be daily driven.

Only thing I'll point out that may have been missed are I'm only towing 1-3 times a year. While it would be nice to get a 3/4 ton I'm just not sure it's necessary for towing 1-3 times a year. The 900 mile tows will only be once a year (Road America 2025, Sebring 2026, Barber Motorsports Parker 2027, Road Atlanta 2028)

No i was making an example. Just make sure you get the actual payload off the door jamb sticker. Before buying the actual truck

[Capricio]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

you guys recommending the 3/4 ton has kinda killed my dream of towing to the track as it will tremendously help with anxiety at the track. Lap times improve when you don't have to worry about driving your track car home

I just can't afford a 3/4 ton and nor do I want to daily a 3/4 ton. I do not have space to store a 20 year 3/4 ton. Whatever I buy has to be daily driven.

Only thing I'll point out that may have been missed are I'm only towing 1-3 times a year. While it would be nice to get a 3/4 ton I'm just not sure it's necessary for towing 1-3 times a year. The 900 mile tows will only be once a year (Road America 2025, Sebring 2026, Barber Motorsports Parker 2027, Road Atlanta 2028)

What is your budget? I don't find maneuvering a 2500HD to be appreciably worse than a half ton. I haven't shopped but I don't think the gassers command the resale prices of diesels, and there are a lot of used fleet WTs there. A forward (because the hood is high) and reverse camera for parking make a huge difference.