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rearend shudder on washboard roads
what bushings are known to be cause of rearend shudder over rough washboard roads?
the 4 cradle bushings or the 3 pumpkin bushings? and whats best bang4buck version that wont break the bank like BMR
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2015 2LT LFX 3.6L
FE2 Sport Suspension MXO-6 Speed auto w/Tapshift Aftermarket Oval mufflers |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,041
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You only need diff bushings if you are drag racing. Cradle bushings are probably the single best improvement you can do on the rear suspension. I've run poly and solids and recommend solids if you don't mind the $500 price tag. Polys are a bit cheaper.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
AND the FOUR cradle bushings at four corners are the ones that help suspension FEEL better on bumpy washboard type roads? IM NOT crazy about BMR type prices for these bushings and will be fine with POLY if they help this shudder. got a recomended pic? how do i tell if my shocks are shot? i thought pushing down on the vehicle was sufficient but recently found out on my classic truck that doesnt work. =whn i pushed down on my truck, the bounce back up was slow n controlled, no bounce back at all so i figured shocks were good. BUT i recently did other suspensionwork that involved removing lower shock mount and just for shitsngiggles i tried pushing the shock up then pulling down. Turns out my shocks pushed in rather easy and were about 3x harder to pull out and thus fooled me into thinking they were good. Do i have to do the same with camaro shocks?
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2015 2LT LFX 3.6L
FE2 Sport Suspension MXO-6 Speed auto w/Tapshift Aftermarket Oval mufflers Last edited by Ck1984; 07-24-2025 at 09:39 AM. |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,041
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Diff bushings keep the nose of the diff from wanting to twist upward too much during hard acceleration.
Stiffer cradle bushings reduce or eliminate deflection of the rear cradle while cornering or under acceleration. You might find Prothane or Energy Suspension poly bushings cheaper than BMR. Solids are not much more expensive than BMR poly and are really the way to go. Other than a physical inspection, the only way I have heard of to check shocks is jouncing the car and seeing if it cycles more than once as you mentioned.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 SS-RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 14,043
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Here's a vid of how stock vs solid cradle bushing work. I still have stock diff bushings, but have installed solid cradle bushings.
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TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
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