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Old 08-04-2025, 01:15 PM   #1
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
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Rear main seal cover/gasket replacement

I was looking for a generic replacement for the rear main seal cover, on the LS3 on my Camaro. Looks like GM OEM parts numbers 12633579 and 12639250 will fit? What’s the difference on these? It looks like they fit most LS style 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L V8 engines. I’m just not sure whether the SUV/truck applications are a bit different from the passenger car parts.

Also, should I just replace the rear main seal gasket itself, or the cover gasket as well, while I have my transmission dropped and out? I figured I was gonna eyeball underneath the clutch and flywheel; but since I may be considering replacing those as well, I’m most likely just gonna replace all the rear main seal gaskets for peace of mind…

If anyone knows anything else I should check/replace while I have my trans dropped, please let me know. I’m currently replacing my clutch slave cylinder, and I’m also installing a remote bleeder line on it. Other than that, I can’t really think of anything else I might be missing, apart from a billet release bearing support that I threw onto the new CSC.
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Old 08-04-2025, 08:26 PM   #2
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If you already have the trans out I would also do the cover gasket. No point in ignoring that when you are right there.
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Old 08-05-2025, 03:41 PM   #3
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And a special note from my experience, make sure to be careful when removing the rear cover as it does contact the oil pan gasket on the rear corners. One of my "used to be" techs didn't see that when he replaced my cover and rear main, and in removing the cover, it took a chunk of the oil pan gasket with it and didn't seal back up, soooo I had ANOTHER leak back there after a while! They did fix it for free since it was THEIR fault.. Just had to put some RTV in the spots where the gasket was torn and missing..
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Old 08-08-2025, 01:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
And a special note from my experience, make sure to be careful when removing the rear cover as it does contact the oil pan gasket on the rear corners. One of my "used to be" techs didn't see that when he replaced my cover and rear main, and in removing the cover, it took a chunk of the oil pan gasket with it and didn't seal back up, soooo I had ANOTHER leak back there after a while! They did fix it for free since it was THEIR fault.. Just had to put some RTV in the spots where the gasket was torn and missing..
I will keep this in mind. I have my factory oil pan gasket currently leaking from the sides a bit… I remember the oil pan gasket requiring RTV gasket maker on the 4 corners, but I’ll check what might need me to use some gasket maker on the rear section of the oil pan gasket. Should I use Permatex Ultra Gray or Ultra Black? Those are what I’ve used in the past for oil pans.
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Old 08-09-2025, 12:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBrightSide View Post
I will keep this in mind. I have my factory oil pan gasket currently leaking from the sides a bit… I remember the oil pan gasket requiring RTV gasket maker on the 4 corners, but I’ll check what might need me to use some gasket maker on the rear section of the oil pan gasket. Should I use Permatex Ultra Gray or Ultra Black? Those are what I’ve used in the past for oil pans.
I'm not sure what they used, but you want it to harden, yet stay "flexible" like the rubber gasket material is on the cover and pan. Not the gooey black pasty crap we used back in the day. The crankcase pressure will blow it out if it gets too much.
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Old 08-10-2025, 09:28 AM   #6
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Ultra Black is meant for oil pans, Holds up to Heat and oil better than Grey which more for Water pumps and thermostats and what not. I Have used RTV colors for applications they aren't suggested for and have not had an issue but I try to keep about 10 Different types on hand.
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Old 08-10-2025, 10:01 AM   #7
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Not sure on the different covers. Maybe think about replacing the plastic dogbone seal with a new one or a metal one.
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